Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

DXT-MAX - Small active monitors

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • djg
    commented on 's reply
    You may never paint them. They look nice. you might want to make short stands to get them up off the desktop.

    The baffles on the Schumakubins HT suite was Rustoleum stone texture.

    https://duckduckgo.com/?q=rust+oleum...ages&ia=images

  • Steve Lee
    replied
    Sweet!!

    I love Sigma studio programming.

    How are they sounding and what are the XO details?

    Leave a comment:


  • silverD
    replied
    I'm thinking I'll go white for the cabs while keeping the baffle natural. Rolling or sprayed, I hope to give them some texture to help hide any blemishes. Here is a screenshot of the crossover in SigmaStudio and everything connected an running! I opted to swap in an Icepower 125asx2 amp with volume control for the tweeters to make the level matching easier and on the fly. They stack nice as well.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	crossover.JPG
Views:	872
Size:	55.6 KB
ID:	1478699
    Click image for larger version

Name:	connceted.JPG
Views:	859
Size:	130.2 KB
ID:	1478700

    Leave a comment:


  • Wolf
    replied
    As long as it's sealed and impervious, you should be fine.

    Wolf

    Leave a comment:


  • djg
    commented on 's reply
    If you're rolling it on, consider latex wall paint. A gazillion colors, super thick, all sorts of roller textures.

  • silverD
    replied
    I assembled the second one, lined it with foam like the other, added 60 grams this time to the PR, and didn't use any Acousta-Stuf. These are over 20lbs each!

    Leave a comment:


  • silverD
    replied
    Thanks Steve, I felt that this would be a great opportunity to start experimenting with active crossovers. I'm new to active crossovers, but with the winter months coming it will provide some easy tinkering. David, yes the baffles will remain natural. The two coats of shellac I put on seem to have done a decent job of sealing the end grain. I was thinking of brush/roller applying a shellac-based primer and then top coating with a matte paint. Was at first thinking a gray but now I might look to a lighter color. Wolf, do you think the epoxy is necessary after shellac and shellac primer?

    Leave a comment:


  • Wolf
    replied
    Use epoxy to seal the end grain of the mdf. It's very effective for this process.
    Wolf

    Leave a comment:


  • djg
    replied
    Are you leaving the baffles natural?

    How much patience do you have for paint prep? Butt seam MDF cabs show the seams if you don't do a ton of prep. Easy way is some textured paint after modest prep. Do you have a spray gun or are you rattlecan limited?

    These should outwoof your Speedsters.

    Leave a comment:


  • Steve Lee
    replied
    Gosh, they look so good!

    I just cannot get past the low sensitivity and $$$ but that is the trade-off for not having 1+ cu ft of cabinet volume, I guess.

    Amps are cheap these days so I am really interested in your findings and subjective thoughts concerning how they sound and how they are employed.

    Leave a comment:


  • silverD
    replied
    One done.....at least for now.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	front.JPG Views:	0 Size:	120.5 KB ID:	1478632
    Click image for larger version  Name:	rear.JPG Views:	0 Size:	93.4 KB ID:	1478633


    Impedance sweep on the woofer:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	woofer.JPG Views:	0 Size:	141.4 KB ID:	1478630
    Impedance sweep on the tweeter:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	tweeter.JPG Views:	0 Size:	189.7 KB ID:	1478631

    Leave a comment:


  • silverD
    replied
    I was able to make some more progress. Sanded the cabinets and applied a couple of coats of dewaxed shellac. The baffles will be left as is, but I plan on painting the rest of the cabs. Any suggestions?
    Pounded in the binding posts, added foam, wired and mounted the drivers, put in some fill, and added 40g to the PR and mounted it. Click image for larger version

Name:	cabs.JPG
Views:	1178
Size:	180.2 KB
ID:	1478626 Click image for larger version

Name:	wiring.JPG
Views:	1161
Size:	118.0 KB
ID:	1478625 Click image for larger version

Name:	rear wiring.JPG
Views:	1180
Size:	151.5 KB
ID:	1478623 Click image for larger version

Name:	PR.JPG
Views:	1158
Size:	93.4 KB
ID:	1478624

    Leave a comment:


  • silverD
    commented on 's reply
    Yep, electronic crossovers. Only the 25uF cap in the cabinet and two sets of binding posts.

  • djg
    commented on 's reply
    So, when you say active, you don't mean amps in the speaker cabs, just electronic crossovers?

  • silverD
    replied
    Thanks for the comments everyone
    Kevin, this is my first time using the ADAU1701, but it seems you get a lot for your money. This is the 3E Audio version with 2 channel SE input and 4 channel balanced outputs. As I understand, I can use digital I2S input to avoid the ADC. It also supports I2C output so one could add more output channels via other DACs.
    Tom, I'd have to pull up the WinISD model on other computer, but I think at 70W/100dB both the woofer and PR (with 30g mass added) are under xmax with a HPF at 20Hz.
    David, I plan on using PE screws. There have been times where a T/hurricane nut has cross-threaded and backed out of the wood making for a difficult time. These will be used near-field without sub at a desk where I can also have the ease of reprogramming the DSP. The DSP is pictured above in the case I made for it. The amp above I picked up as an unassembled kit off the bay. It came with the 200ASC and 200AC modules, Ghent case, and all the needed wires and hardware. It will be used for the woofers. The tweeters will be powered by a 3E Audio TPA3255 I recently updated to have balanced input. The DSP will receive SE input from a SMSL Sanskrit 10th MKII connected to a pi.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X