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Classic Classix II's

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  • #16
    Returning the bad DC160.

    Does this speaker have a recommended amount of internal stuffing. I've got a good bit of stuffing in there and feeling it may be a bit too much.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by joshshetter View Post
      The wood is pine.
      Pine can be tricky to finish. One problem is grain reversal. When staining pine, the earlywood soaks stain while the latewood is denser and soaks less stain, and the result is that the grain ends up being lighter than its surroundings. Another issue is blotching, which happens often with pine. See https://www.popularwoodworking.com/t...staining-pine/ for a picture of these issues. I'm not advocating their finishing method, though. I'm sure it works, but it seems pretty complex to me.

      I think an oil finish is likely to have the grain reversal and blotching issues.

      One way to finish pine is to leave it unstained, and apply a clear film finish to it. A clear varnish, poly, or laquer would do. An oil based finish will add an amber coloring to the wood. A water based one will not, and leave the wood looking like it is right now. Over time, pine will turn amber on its own as it ages.

      As mentioned earlier, try out any finishing methods on scrap pieces, to see what the final result looks like.

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      • joshshetter
        joshshetter commented
        Editing a comment
        That is a heck of a finish procedure, the "finished" result at the end looks quite good though. I don't intend to stain these though. I am testing some things like Danish oil and then a poly coat over top. Does that sound alright? I'm still a little confused about what oils and finishes can be used together. But I won't be able to do much for awhile, it just started snowing here and boy is it cold outside. My poor garage is basically a few degrees warmer and that's it.

      • Hoven
        Hoven commented
        Editing a comment
        My guess would be any oil finish, including Danish Oil, would have grain reversal and blotching. I don't have direct experience with pine, though. Do you see these issues with your test pieces? Ultimately it's up to you if you like the look that Danish Oil brings.

        Danish Oil with a poly coat on top is fine, as long as you let the Danish Oil dry thoroughly. As a general rule, it's ok to put any finish on top of another finish, as long as the first finish is dry. There are exceptions to this rule, though. Here is a nice article about finish compatibility: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/f...compatibility/.

    • #18
      Did some measurements today to make sure everything was working right, pretty happy with the results.

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      • #19
        Sad day today, I went to put on another coat of poly and noticed that the cabinet has started to pull itself apart already. I guess this is a bit of a costly lesson to learn. I am not really motivated to rebuild these into new cabinets and may attempt to sell the parts.

        Don't make the same mistake I did, stick to MDF/Ply.

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        • #20
          Oh no! Is it splitting at the joints, or in the middle of the boards? I have had problems with hardwood splitting on me in the past, as well, and ended up at the same conclusion you did: MDF and ply are the way to go for speakers.
          Isn't it about time we started answering rhetorical questions?

          Paul Carmody's DIY Audio Projects
          Twitter: @undefinition1

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          • #21
            It's splitting at joints, I even had L brackets at most of the joints and that didn't hold it. The ports have also detached from the glue and wood. I did some stock on my wood and I do have enough to rebuild them in some nice ply so I'll probably do that. They should be a better build, learned a lot from the pine cabinets. Hoping to get them done together by the end of the week.

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            • #22
              Sorry to hear, it would have been great to see the finished cabinets.

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              • #23
                Well guess I didn't have enough ply, and going to the store, it's gone up $20 since two weeks ago. I have to admit DIY is just not economically viable at the moment. This project failure has really discouraged me from starting new speakers and finishing what I have. I kind of feel like I've wasted a lot of time and money when I would have been totally happy with many of the commercial pre-made options available. Oh well live and learn. I'm going to toss the parts for these up somewhere but I don't think anyone will be interested.

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                • #24
                  Sorry to hear about your issues with this project.

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                  • #25
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                    • #26
                      I finally got around to rebuilding these in more stable wood. Used some left over ply. Made this a bit of a low effort build and base for experimentation. Tried a new chamfer bit on the sides and really like it. Also first time using shellac, used an amber toned shellac since this playwood was basically white. Not the easiest finish to apply but even when being super lazy I like how it looks. I like it much better than the polyurathane finishes Ive used so far. Fast dry time is amazing, and dries hard, don't have to leave it in the garage for a month before I can bring it inside.

                      Build went better this time, I got to locate the woofer and tweeter close together, the internals are braced better.

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                      • djg
                        djg commented
                        Editing a comment
                        I like the chamfer and the amber shellac. I found it easiest to shellac one side at a time horizontal, watching for and chasing any drips down the sides.

                        Can you put up a picture of your stands?

                    • #27
                      Looks very nice!
                      You will enjoy them.
                      Still surprised every time I hear mine.

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                      • #28
                        I like it! The chamfer is classy.

                        Shellac is really nice to work with. The amber kind can really help bring out chatoyance. May be worth it to rub out the finish with some steel wool and paste wax.
                        Isn't it about time we started answering rhetorical questions?

                        Paul Carmody's DIY Audio Projects
                        Twitter: @undefinition1

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                        • #29

                          Looks really good! The shellac finish turned out quite well. I'll have to try shellac at some point.

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                          • #30
                            The shellac does look pretty nice but also a pain to apply. Required basically perfect brush technique which I think is kind of unfeasible. It had a very "what you see applied is what the final result will be" aspect to it, really easy to get a mirror in one spot and not so great sheen right next to it, doesn't seem to like touch ups. This could also be more of a problem with the amber rather than clear.

                            I did the chamfer with a cheap yonico bit, only 1/4" shank 22.5 degree bit I could find, figured it would blow up on me but it did fine on test pieces. I usually assume when you can't find a more reputable maker of the bit you need, it's because it's unsafe, but they make 45 degree bits for 1/4" shank which takes off more at a sharper angle so who knows.

                            The stands are pretty simple affair, precut circles and pine boards, hopefully they don't warp too much like the classix cabinets but I made them around the same time and they're fine so far, they have screws holding them together at least. If they do I'll just rebuild them nicer, might as well put the panel saw I plan to make to use. Might hit them with shellac too as I feel the poly coat looks pretty flat.

                            I am glad I rebuilt the speakers, so easy to listen to, though I do add the mid range dip back in with EQ, they sound better that way IMO, usually keep things neutral. Dare I say I prefer the tweeter in the classix over the dx25 in the amiga?

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