Amiga Build

[joshshetter]

So I moved things around, with each new placement lowering the speakers tweeter to ear height and each time there was a great improvement. I have the tweeters now at ear level and the sound is incredible. They seem extremely sensitive to vertical placement, at least below the tweeter.

I had two subs, one in each corner but I've moved them out and they are now the stands for the Amiga's. I think this sounds better and is easier to integrate than having them in the corners, the timing feels better.

I was curious, I wanted to get a minidsp like device to split my signal between tops and subs, but having owned one before and being unhappy with it's degredation in sound quality, I'm wondering my alternatives are that don't cost a bunch. Is it possible to just toss one of the 80hz passive filters available at PE in line with the Amiga's or does this not really work?

[joshshetter]

Anyone know how to drop the tweeter by 1-2db? I know it was mentioned previously but I'm not that familiar with crossover topology. One user mentioned it could be a simple resistor over the right spots. I still find these speakers just bright.

[joshshetter]

Boy this forum is kinda dead, guess I'll just folks at ASR.

[Colonel7]

Ask on the TechTalk Forum. You're in the Speaker Gallery. My guess is that people see Amiga and don't click on it because it's a finished design and been out awhile.

[joshshetter]

I did ask there, even in a thread that Paul is in. I also asked about a possible cabinet related cancellation and got no reply. I got the info I needed at ASR.

[joshshetter]

Oh no, has anyone ever had a tweeter leak ferrofluid? One of the tweeters on the speakers I noticed had some sort of pooling liquid on the bottom of it's dome. I wiped it off but it just came back, the other tweeter appears fine. Should I contact PE?

[Geoff Millar]

Of course, that doesn't sound normal

Geoff

[joshshetter]

Def not, PE rise to the occasion and is shipping a replacement. First time I've ever run into something like this, but yeah it's ferro fluid, brown. I wiped it off but it just pooled up again.

[joshshetter]

Finally started to veneer these things, first time doing it. Gotta say it's way easier than I thought it'd be. I went with some quarter sawn sapele and will update with pics once I have them covered. I'm using the wood glue + heatlock method and it's super easy.

[early rejecter]

Looking forward to seeing them; mine are still in the planning stages. Did you use veneer softener to wrap over the rounded baffle edges?

[joshshetter]

Looking forward to seeing them; mine are still in the planning stages. Did you use veneer softener to wrap over the rounded baffle edges?

No, the 10mil paper back I bought easily wrapped around the roundover without any effort or softeners. However this is if you want to work with the grain (Grain going horizontal vs. vertical) . Going back, I wish I had the veneer against the grain but I'm a little short on cash to finish this project so can't grab veneer softener. I would also pay a little extra to maybe get a better quality veneer, as in less errors in the veneer. I just used the less ideal parts for the back and bottom.

Tips I can give you from what I learned.

Don't skimp on the glue, make sure the edges are very well adhered because they like to pop off. If they do you can use an xacto knife and a syringe to push glue under neath and press it down. If you get a bubble you can slice the veneer at the bubble and inject more glue, go with the grain on the slice. Really hit it with that iron to make sure things melt. I used a rolling pin to smooth mine out and if you hear crackling as you go, that spot needs more heat. Really, really make sure the roundover is melted well, it's hard to do as surface area contact to the iron is poor there. Of course all this is in videos out there.

I used this bit to trim, it's a very good bit for this.

https://www.amazon.com/Amana-51204-Cleaning-Single-Router/dp/B000P4QBEU/ref=sr_1_1?crid=17X0HXF7I3BO6&keywords=dado+trim+pilot&qid=1654877409&sprefix=dado+trim+pilot%2Caps%2C66&sr=8-1

It will leave a smoothed out glassy texture on the veneer edge where the bottom hits, but that is easily sanded away. When I used my trim bit with a bearing, the bearing left a deep indent that is tough to sand away, and taping it off didn't help because it just sort tore up the tape and pushed it into the veneer, was tough to get out.

I'm hoping to put on a clear coat here soon and start using the speakers again. Not really sure what I want to use, everyone basically hates or loves every finish out there. I'd love to get the finish Salk sound does with their cabinets but I need to be realistic, I'm not a professional wood shop lol. I'm also going to embed some nuts into the bottom of the cabinet so I can screw in some wooden outriggers. My cats knocked these over before so yeah.

Anyway heres a pic.


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[invaderzim]

It looks really good. That's an interesting bit, I'll have to look into one as I've had a similar problem with the bits I've used where the bit or the bearing rub on the already applied veneer. I've also done the wrapping the veneer in tape but it does like to rip it off.

[a4eaudio]

I used this bit to trim, it's a very good bit for this.

It will leave a smoothed out glassy texture on the veneer edge where the bottom hits, but that is easily sanded away. When I used my trim bit with a bearing, the bearing left a deep indent that is tough to sand away, and taping it off didn't help because it just sort tore up the tape and pushed it into the veneer, was tough to get out.

Very nice!

You can also put a layer of masking tape on the speaker where the edge runs to avoid the "glassy texture" but then you may have a small edge (very small, the depth of the masking tape) of the veneer to sand. It sounds like the way you did it may be easier, but if you use the bearing bit use the masking tape and sand the veneer edge. (Sand the veneer toward the edge rather than away from the edge or it may pull away.)

[joshshetter]

Very nice!

You can also put a layer of masking tape on the speaker where the edge runs to avoid the "glassy texture" but then you may have a small edge (very small, the depth of the masking tape) of the veneer to sand. It sounds like the way you did it may be easier, but if you use the bearing bit use the masking tape and sand the veneer edge. (Sand the veneer toward the edge rather than away from the edge or it may pull away.)

For me, the bearing went right through the tape. I just opted not to use that bit because well, it left bad results. The bit I linked was perfect.

[djg]

Sounds like the bearing was locked up. I use such a bit all the time with good results.

Your veneer looks good, it will really pop with finish.

[joshshetter]

I just sprayed them with some semi gloss poly, maybe 4 coats. I kinda polished em up with a rag for some sheen and super happy with the results.

[davidB]

Ohm E on the floor?

[joshshetter]

No idea, just some vintage magnavox that came with the house, they had ripped cones and missing twweters. I'm using them as stands until I make some of my own.