Amiga Build

[Paul Carmody]

They're looking really good. I've seen those veneer trimming bits in the past and never used one. I may have to try it next time.

[davidroberts]

No idea, just some vintage magnavox that came with the house, they had ripped cones and missing twweters. I'm using them as stands until I make some of my own.

I was actually wondering the same thing. I thought maybe a pair of EPI. But most of those had the square frame Focal tweeters IIRC.

New speakers look great!

[joshshetter]

No idea, just some vintage magnavox that came with the house, they had ripped cones and missing twweters. I'm using them as stands until I make some of my own.

[davidB]

Ohm E on the floor?

[joshshetter]

I just sprayed them with some semi gloss poly, maybe 4 coats. I kinda polished em up with a rag for some sheen and super happy with the results.

[djg]

Sounds like the bearing was locked up. I use such a bit all the time with good results.

Your veneer looks good, it will really pop with finish.

[joshshetter]

Very nice!

You can also put a layer of masking tape on the speaker where the edge runs to avoid the "glassy texture" but then you may have a small edge (very small, the depth of the masking tape) of the veneer to sand. It sounds like the way you did it may be easier, but if you use the bearing bit use the masking tape and sand the veneer edge. (Sand the veneer toward the edge rather than away from the edge or it may pull away.)

For me, the bearing went right through the tape. I just opted not to use that bit because well, it left bad results. The bit I linked was perfect.

[a4eaudio]

I used this bit to trim, it's a very good bit for this.

It will leave a smoothed out glassy texture on the veneer edge where the bottom hits, but that is easily sanded away. When I used my trim bit with a bearing, the bearing left a deep indent that is tough to sand away, and taping it off didn't help because it just sort tore up the tape and pushed it into the veneer, was tough to get out.

Very nice!

You can also put a layer of masking tape on the speaker where the edge runs to avoid the "glassy texture" but then you may have a small edge (very small, the depth of the masking tape) of the veneer to sand. It sounds like the way you did it may be easier, but if you use the bearing bit use the masking tape and sand the veneer edge. (Sand the veneer toward the edge rather than away from the edge or it may pull away.)

[invaderzim]

It looks really good. That's an interesting bit, I'll have to look into one as I've had a similar problem with the bits I've used where the bit or the bearing rub on the already applied veneer. I've also done the wrapping the veneer in tape but it does like to rip it off.

[joshshetter]

Looking forward to seeing them; mine are still in the planning stages. Did you use veneer softener to wrap over the rounded baffle edges?

No, the 10mil paper back I bought easily wrapped around the roundover without any effort or softeners. However this is if you want to work with the grain (Grain going horizontal vs. vertical) . Going back, I wish I had the veneer against the grain but I'm a little short on cash to finish this project so can't grab veneer softener. I would also pay a little extra to maybe get a better quality veneer, as in less errors in the veneer. I just used the less ideal parts for the back and bottom.

Tips I can give you from what I learned.

Don't skimp on the glue, make sure the edges are very well adhered because they like to pop off. If they do you can use an xacto knife and a syringe to push glue under neath and press it down. If you get a bubble you can slice the veneer at the bubble and inject more glue, go with the grain on the slice. Really hit it with that iron to make sure things melt. I used a rolling pin to smooth mine out and if you hear crackling as you go, that spot needs more heat. Really, really make sure the roundover is melted well, it's hard to do as surface area contact to the iron is poor there. Of course all this is in videos out there.

I used this bit to trim, it's a very good bit for this.

https://www.amazon.com/Amana-51204-Cleaning-Single-Router/dp/B000P4QBEU/ref=sr_1_1?crid=17X0HXF7I3BO6&keywords=dado+trim+pilot&qid=1654877409&sprefix=dado+trim+pilot%2Caps%2C66&sr=8-1

It will leave a smoothed out glassy texture on the veneer edge where the bottom hits, but that is easily sanded away. When I used my trim bit with a bearing, the bearing left a deep indent that is tough to sand away, and taping it off didn't help because it just sort tore up the tape and pushed it into the veneer, was tough to get out.

I'm hoping to put on a clear coat here soon and start using the speakers again. Not really sure what I want to use, everyone basically hates or loves every finish out there. I'd love to get the finish Salk sound does with their cabinets but I need to be realistic, I'm not a professional wood shop lol. I'm also going to embed some nuts into the bottom of the cabinet so I can screw in some wooden outriggers. My cats knocked these over before so yeah.

Anyway heres a pic.


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[early rejecter]

Looking forward to seeing them; mine are still in the planning stages. Did you use veneer softener to wrap over the rounded baffle edges?

[joshshetter]

Finally started to veneer these things, first time doing it. Gotta say it's way easier than I thought it'd be. I went with some quarter sawn sapele and will update with pics once I have them covered. I'm using the wood glue + heatlock method and it's super easy.

[joshshetter]

Def not, PE rise to the occasion and is shipping a replacement. First time I've ever run into something like this, but yeah it's ferro fluid, brown. I wiped it off but it just pooled up again.

[Geoff Millar]

Of course, that doesn't sound normal

Geoff

[joshshetter]

Oh no, has anyone ever had a tweeter leak ferrofluid? One of the tweeters on the speakers I noticed had some sort of pooling liquid on the bottom of it's dome. I wiped it off but it just came back, the other tweeter appears fine. Should I contact PE?