Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Overnight sensation mtm mltl

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Overnight sensation mtm mltl

    Click image for larger version

Name:	functional without finish1.jpg
Views:	627
Size:	715.9 KB
ID:	1483664

    First off, thank you to Paul Carmody, bungalow_ed, and this forum for the design and hours of reading material! Link to the thread I worked off of.

    I’ve been sitting on the drivers and crossover parts for the OS mtm for a couple of years and I finally was reluctantly given approval to build these as a transmission line that I saw in the post above. The cabinets are assembled, crossovers wired up, and drivers installed. I started listening to these today and I am impressed! These definitely have solid bass response and the mids and highs sound great too! I haven’t had a chance to AB test against any good commercial speakers yet, but might be able to over the next few weeks. These do sound a LOT better than my old cheapo speakers in the garage, and they are definitely an improvement on the Sony sscs5 bookshelves I have in my basement surround sound set up. Two thumbs up.

    I’ll be using these in my living room for 100% music. I do not plan on adding a sub; I don’t think these need it at all in my listening so far. The room is open to the rest of my first floor, so I’m hoping to get solid sound throughout.

    Cabinet sides, back, and bottom are maple plywood 18mm, baffle and top are white oak, 7/8”, and the “false baffle” is 3/4” black walnut inlayed 1/4” into the oak. 1/4” roundover bit was used on the sides and top of baffle and false baffle. Joints are rabbets with titebond II wood glue. The back of the cabinet is removable with a double rabbet joint, screwed in, and with 1/4” weather stripping for air tightness. 3” round port is schedule 40 ABS plumbing I had left from remodels. With the 18mm ply, I kept the inside dimensions the same to the mltl plans, 4.5” x 8.25” x 42”. I also kept the baffle to the original 6” wide, which leaves just a bit of overhang, maybe 1/32 per side to make up that 18mm =\ 3/4” difference.

    I have not stained or finished these yet, but plan to over the next few weeks. I'm planning on boiled linseed oil for the white oak and walnut, and a white wash for the maple. Flat or satin poly for a top coat. Though, for whatever reason, I always feel like the projects look better before stain and finish!

    I have a couple of build photos that I will add later, my phone app only allows 1 at a time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Papa Bear; 03-04-2022, 02:45 PM.

  • #2
    I’ve been using this little 20w/channel lepai amp to drive these things out in the garage. And I also tried them with an old pioneer vsx d812, an avr that is “supposed” to run 100watt/ channel.

    Am I crazy that I think the lepai does a better job? It sounds better to me, clearer and louder, but that little amp couldn’t keep up and was clipping at maybe 3/4 volume. I’m just using an Amazon echo dot with a 3.5mm to rca cable for my source at this time and will use that same setup in home as well.

    Any recommendations on amps to drive these? Requirements being that it is small so that I keep my wife happy!

    Comment


    • #3
      Click image for larger version

Name:	image_93211.jpg
Views:	628
Size:	547.6 KB
ID:	1483660 Click image for larger version

Name:	image_93212.jpg
Views:	620
Size:	587.3 KB
ID:	1483661 Click image for larger version

Name:	image_93213.jpg
Views:	615
Size:	585.7 KB
ID:	1483662 Some build photos:

      Used a jig saw to cut the radius out of the walnut. I wanted to give these a bit more than just a squared off look. Getting a jig to work with a router for the inlay was a bit of a pain, as these were hand cut. I took the inverse cut out of plywood, got it damn close to fitting the actual piece with some sanding, and then used a top bearing router bit to route out the white oak. Cleaned it up with a chisel and some sandpaper and got it close. Not close enough if it was a flush inlay, but it looks fine sitting 1/2" proud. Plus no one will get close enough to look!
      Last edited by Papa Bear; 03-04-2022, 02:43 PM.

      Comment


      • #4
        Looking good. You clearly have some woodworking skills under your belt. I look forward to seeing them after you apply a finish!
        Isn't it about time we started answering rhetorical questions?

        Paul Carmody's DIY Audio Projects
        Twitter: @undefinition1

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Paul Carmody View Post
          Looking good. You clearly have some woodworking skills under your belt. I look forward to seeing them after you apply a finish!
          Thanks! I'll be sure to post them when I finish up. These are awesome! I should have built these years ago!

          Comment


          • #6
            More build photos:

            Here's the crossover installed in the box. Used heavy duty velcro to attach it to the front, which keeps it from moving, but also removable if needed.

            ABS plumbing for the 7" port.

            Clamps and glue up pictures!

            Click image for larger version

Name:	boxes without drivers1.jpg
Views:	623
Size:	587.5 KB
ID:	1483668 Click image for larger version

Name:	back panel1.jpg
Views:	619
Size:	622.9 KB
ID:	1483669 Click image for larger version

Name:	false baffle glue up1.jpg
Views:	614
Size:	676.6 KB
ID:	1483670 Click image for larger version

Name:	crossover and brace1.jpg
Views:	620
Size:	569.2 KB
ID:	1483671

            Comment


            • #7
              If you like the look now, you might use a paste wax finish.

              No color change, a few coats gives a matte surface, a half-dozen a low-to-medium lustre.(the grain will be halfway between wet and dry)

              A wax with UV inhibitors will seriously slow age-darkening.

              Good work, enjoy.

              Comment


              • #8
                Really nice, unique look you have created there!
                Well done.

                I am also reluctant to stain, I never/rarely think it looks natural/right for some reason...likely my skills ;-)
                Andy.

                Comment


                • #9
                  So far, I have a BLO finish on the white oak and walnut. I also tried for a whitewash look on the maple ply. I forgot how god awful it is to try and stain hard maple, but I didn't think I would have a problem with the ply. But this was no different. It did not take a whitewash stain or gel coat at all. I ended up just mixing 50:50 white paint and water. And consensus is, we aren't super thrilled with the outcome. Here are some pictures. I'm debating painting or staining the ply in a matte black. Any other suggestions on color? Once I have the color down, I'll end up doing a water based satin poly coat over the entire thing.

                  These do sound awesome. I had a neighbor host a "kids dance" in their home and he was looking for some speakers. I had these still in my garage so I brought them over. They were a big hit with the dads. Someone asked where I hid the sub on these things. And now that they are in home, they are getting a workout with the Disney Encanto soundtrack on repeat. That seems to be a fan favorite right now. These do give a solid bass punch on most things. But we did notice on some hiphop tracks, the low end did seem to drop out pretty fast. I don't think these will run sound at a club, but they are kicking *** in my living room.


                  Click image for larger version  Name:	current position1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	583.6 KB ID:	1484290 Click image for larger version  Name:	oil and whitewash1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	618.3 KB ID:	1484292 Click image for larger version  Name:	edited for black instead of white1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	160.8 KB ID:	1484294

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Nicely done.
                    My vote would be to paint the maple black, satin maybe.
                    I've been trying to to envision another color that works with both the wo and walnut, but nothing is really clicking.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      They look great but bummer about the sides not working out as you hoped. Do you think what you've applied so far has penetrated through the top layer of the plywood? It might be risky but if you can sand down to the natural maple color and then cover it with a poly, I think that would look best. Painting the sides black wouldn't work to my eye but everyone has their likes/dislikes. If you're set on painting the white looks like the better choice to me and is closer to your original intent.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I personally like a light to medium gray, somewhere between satin and matte sheen next to natural woods finished like that. Not everyone's cup of tea obviously but I like it better than full on white or black and definitely not gloss or completely flat (i.e. chalk paint).
                        Last edited by PWR RYD; 03-25-2022, 11:01 PM.
                        Craig

                        I drive way too fast to worry about cholesterol.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I think I'd do interior latex wall paint, your choice of color, gloss level and roller texture. I don't think you can save that surface back to a wood grain.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            djg is right, I doubt you can salvage the wood grain even if you did a complete strip. Although I would offer doing a simple rattle can coat of a satin color. The spray coat will be thinner than a roller or brush application and may preserve what is left of the grain while not having a sheen that distracts from the front panels.

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X