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Paul Carmody Tarkus, built in Michigan!

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  • beenzapped68
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  • beenzapped68
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks Paul!

  • Paul Carmody
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    Originally posted by beenzapped68 View Post
    Hoping someone can help me out here.
    In one of Paul's post's he said that he thought a 3" Precision Port 8 1/2" long would work.
    I have used the Precision Port site Port calculator and see that is the recommended length for the bass box.
    I have scoured old threads, the calculator site and cannot get my head around the overall length.
    Is 8 1/2" the length of the entire port with the flares? Or the length of the center tube without the flares.
    Many Thanks in advance.
    I am so sorry I've been so late to answer this question.

    With Precision Ports (and pretty much all ports), you're talking about the overall length, which includes the flares. Now with the Precision Ports, they tell you to figure out how long to cut your tube, you're supposed to subtract 6" or whatever from the total length, because that accounts for the massive flares. So yeah, the actual "tube" in this case is actually only 2.5" long... kinda sounds silly when you put it that way. But yeah, it'll work.

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  • beenzapped68
    commented on 's reply
    This is the round over of the front baffle.
    This was from routed sanded to 320 then french polish.
    This is the raw edge of 3/4" mdf
    Last edited by beenzapped68; 06-24-2022, 06:54 PM. Reason: Clairfy what got polished.

  • beenzapped68
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  • beenzapped68
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks djg.
    I did a French Polish on a set of towers I built about 14 years ago, still looks pretty good, its a lot of rubbing though!
    I put a pic up of them.

  • Wolf
    commented on 's reply
    I don't know that it would be better or worse.

  • beenzapped68
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks Scott.

  • beenzapped68
    commented on 's reply
    Hey Wolf,
    What about felt or similar on the triangles next to the M/T baffle?

  • djg
    replied
    Veneer is much easier than a painted finish over MDF with buttjoints and exposed "end grain". Here's one way to achieve a nice finish over MDF.

    https://techtalk.parts-express.com/f...-the-mdf-seams

    Leave a comment:


  • beenzapped68
    replied
    Thanks Scott.
    The other finish I saw that piqued my interest is the automotive over epoxy primer that they did on the hammer sub, but in a darker cherry color (pics attached).
    Attached Files

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  • scottvalentin
    replied
    With the amount of work you have put into the cabs, I think they deserve actual Mahogany veneer, the image above I don't think would do the workmanship so far justice. Excellent work on the cabs so far.

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  • Steve Lee
    commented on 's reply
    You've gone this far with it - I say keep going - looks a bit like a jib sail profile to me - I like it.

  • beenzapped68
    replied
    Playing around with a compound curve in the back, yea or nay?

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  • Steve Lee
    commented on 's reply
    Thanks - the clamp guide board looks pretty good.
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