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Paul Carmody Tarkus, built in Michigan!

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  • Paul Carmody Tarkus, built in Michigan!

    Greetings fellow Builders!
    First post, spent hours and hours trolling others build threads.
    Any and all critiques welcome.

    Actually started these in 2019, but life has kept getting in the way! If that is not enough, they have continually morphed and have taken on a life of their own.
    wanted to do something challenging as far as the cabinets...I am so glad I am building these for myself and not someone waiting for me to complete them.
    Decided on a one piece cabinet, but like Paul and so many others didn't want two more rectangular boxes staring back at me.
    The curved back was inspired by Eric's beautiful curved two piece design on Paul's site, and the front top was inspired by my love for challenging compound miters!
    Then the top came alive and I am just trying to keep up with it!

    These are early and mid-build pic's.
    I am finally to the point of building the crossovers and deciding where I will mount them.
    Then put the fronts and backs on, mount the drivers, and listen!

    Thanks Paul for sharing your designs and time so graciously with us!

    More Pic's to come

  • #2


    • #3
      More Pics


      • #4
        The top from my dreams?


        • #5
          Some progress...


          • #6
            Hoping someone can help me out here.
            In one of Paul's post's he said that he thought a 3" Precision Port 8 1/2" long would work.
            I have used the Precision Port site Port calculator and see that is the recommended length for the bass box.
            I have scoured old threads, the calculator site and cannot get my head around the overall length.
            Is 8 1/2" the length of the entire port with the flares? Or the length of the center tube without the flares.
            Many Thanks in advance.


            • #7
              That is some damn fine angular work you are accomplishing.
              Care to share some of your jigs and setups for this sort of work here?


              • beenzapped68
                beenzapped68 commented
                Editing a comment
                Steve, I posted a few pics, pretty basic one.

              • Steve Lee
                Steve Lee commented
                Editing a comment
                Thanks - the clamp guide board looks pretty good.

            • #8
              62 liters / 2.19 ft^3 and tuned to 30 Hz. It looks as though 8.5" is the overall length and you need to cut the tube 6" shorter. You can always test by taping it together first to verify tuning.
              Attached Files
              My Builds - Vigor (Nola Brio Knockoff) - Overnight Sensations w/ Voxel - Speedsters in surplus boxes - Zaph B3N's in bamboo - Classix II in BR-1 cabinets - Dual TPA3116 D2 amp in an old music box - Mariposas


              • #9
                Thanks Steve,
                I will get some pics tomorrow of the jigs I used for this project.
                Most of my jigs are repurposed from other jigs!...there are some I wish I would have kept.
                Learned early on when your trying to build something different you mock it first.
                Spent lots of years working with incredibly creative and talented men, always tried to respect them, they treated me like a son.


                • #10
                  I appreciate your response, I used the calculator and got those results also.
                  So, 12" tube cut off 6".
                  This is where I get flummoxed, the help file states the flared ends although 3" long are only counted as 2 1/2" because of the flare.
                  So outside flare 2 1/2" add 6" tube total 8 1/2".
                  Don't I have to use the inside flare to prevent "chuffing"?
                  If so, what happens to that 2 1/2"s?
                  That adds up to 11". Do I need to cut of an additional 2 1/2"s from the tube to keep the overall length at 8.5" with both flares?
                  Thanks in advance.


                  • #11
                    I wonder if the xover will need adapted due to your chamfered MT cabinet. The original design is not done this way.
                    "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                    "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                    "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                    "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                    *InDIYana event website*

                    Photobucket pages:

                    My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:


                    • beenzapped68
                      beenzapped68 commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Hey Wolf,
                      What about felt or similar on the triangles next to the M/T baffle?

                    • Wolf
                      Wolf commented
                      Editing a comment
                      I don't know that it would be better or worse.

                  • #12
                    I have seen several versions done with angled cut aways, no mention of modifications or unexpected performance.
                    Great question though, anyone else able to chime in?
                    Got me curious now...


                    • #13
                      Definitely looking forward to the many options!


                      • beenzapped68
                        beenzapped68 commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Thanks Uncle Bob!

                    • #14


                      • #15
                        Hey Uncle Bob!
                        I am going to try this guys technique, check out Ronald layman, Faux mahogany wood graining technique for walls, doors, trim, furniture and cabinets.
                        He does great You Tubes
                        I did it on my Classix II but I didn't follow his technique with the tintable glaze and pigment.
                        Did use the orange peel egg shell and then regular stain, turned out ok... but not very smooth.
                        Going to follow exactly this time, pretty excited on the finished look.
                        Here is a couple of Pics.