The LPS-R2/JR

[johnnyrichards]

Oops.

I resemble that remark...

[djg]

Amazing how the human mind works.

[djg]

With the walnut trim front and back, these are 13 1/2" deep, quite a bit more than the Dynaco A25. Height & width are almost identical. Ebay grill cloth, very good match.

[johnnyrichards]

Are you planning on coming to Iowa this fall?

[djg]

Maybe. I'm just a builder, not a designer.

[djg]

Plain paper backed Walnut veneer with Weldwood cement. Glue needs sanded off edges after it dries.

[johnnyrichards]

Maybe. I'm just a builder, not a designer.

All are welcome, you bring your pair I don't have to haul my ugly versions

[djg]

Finishing.

[Steve Lee]

Very nice job - where did you get the veneer?

[djg]

Ebay as usual.

[djg]

Done. Except grilles. I'll post some more pics when grilles are done. Listened for a bit in nearfield no sub. They sound nice like a speaker should. Not real efficient. Couldn't really turn them up. (For continued domestic bliss).

[johnnyrichards]

Those look really cool! Genuine oil rubbed walnut veneer. This is what I had in mind when I designed these - I lack the skills to make this stuff happen so I am glad you are this capable.

[djg]

Thank you. I will eventually hook these up to various sources including a Dynaco ST35 tube amp and a HK retro receiver and document the sound.

[a4eaudio]

Very Nice! Returning to posts 18 and 19 you should go to Iowa if you can pull it off. I think you would enjoy it and I'm sure everyone would enjoy hearing these. I bet that these walnut versions sound better than JR's unfinished particle board versions. (Just kidding JR!).

[djg]

I attended a few years ago. Nice event, well organized. We hear with our eyes so they say. Boomers would like the nostalgic style, and we can't hear that well any more. So what's not to like?

[DrewsBrews]

I've yet to do veneer but am considering it for my build. I've used woodweld for counter laminate and I just brushed it on with a chip brush then lay down the laminate and press it in with a j-roller. But I imagine veneer needs more care than that.

What is your application method? Do you use a v-groove scraper or anything to be sure it is evenly applied?

Also all the quart cans of the standard red label woodweld seem to be sold out locally. Menards has some of the green label stuff. Is that OK to use? only difference I can see is it seems to be a low odor version... guess they use a different solvent, maybe mineral spirits instead of just paint thinner or something.


Oah and some sexy little beasts you've made there!

[djg]

I find veneer much easier than paint. Normally I use PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) veneer but this veneer was much cheaper so I went for it. I used about 2/3 pint for these, four sides. A quart might do for you. Or, give the PSA a try. I find it on Ebay, the more common species. Joe Woodworker/ veneer supply will apply PSA to any paper backed veneer they sell.

I would only use the dangerous highly flammable Weldwood brand. I tried the low odor variety once with poor results. I bought the Weldwood on Amazon, none in stock near me.

Application just as you described. I paint it on both surfaces with a foam throwaway brush, let dry and mate the surfaces. One chance to get it right, I cut the pieces about an inch large. I burnish it down with a piece of wood with a rounded edge. Trim with a flush trim bit with bearing.

Both PSA and Weldwood cement foul the trim bit and you need to clean it after every piece. I use acetone. Then carefully sand the edges with a block.

There are other methods, these work for me. Home recommendation, PSA veneer. You just can't beat it, fast no odor.

[djg]

Can't edit out that "home" link on last line, it replaced "hashtag"1. Number one recommendation PSA.

[djg]

Finally, if using PSA veneer, I give the cabinet 2 coats of shellac and a light sanding. I think it gives better adhesion.

[davidroberts]

I've yet to do veneer but am considering it for my build. I've used woodweld for counter laminate and I just brushed it on with a chip brush then lay down the laminate and press it in with a j-roller. But I imagine veneer needs more care than that.

What is your application method? Do you use a v-groove scraper or anything to be sure it is evenly applied?

Also all the quart cans of the standard red label woodweld seem to be sold out locally. Menards has some of the green label stuff. Is that OK to use? only difference I can see is it seems to be a low odor version... guess they use a different solvent, maybe mineral spirits instead of just paint thinner or something.


Oah and some sexy little beasts you've made there!

I have also had good results with the 3M Super 99 spray adhesive. Although a little more expensive but easy to work with. With the Weldwood that dig mentioned you can also use a roller to apply it. When you are ready to apply the veneer cut some scrap pieces of wood and lay down spaced apart between the surface and the veneer. Once you have it positioned where you want it remove th the strips one at a time applying pressure as you go. The strips save a lot of headache...

[johnnyrichards]

When I was gluing up the headliner in my old truck, I discovered that DAP contact cement was pretty awesome. I was sitting in the cab brushing it on the roof of the cab and it went everywhere including my hair but once it tacked up on the roof and the cardboard backer of the headliner it grabbed like a boss. Zero worktime. Glad I got it right the first time.

The Super 99 I used on the carpet kickpanels and the bottom of the doors.

[djg]

Grill frames.