Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

My Pit Viper Build

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • My Pit Viper Build

    So it begins, the construction of a big boy. Ever since I saw the speaker first shared something told me it was a good fit. Ever since adding a sub to my cnotes and hearing the impressive improvements to the mid range, I've wanted to try a three way speaker. Kind of the same idea but without the sub. Not sure why but my ears have always liked everything coming from the same place and sub integration can be tricky to get right. I had a pair of Amiga's win a recent contest at PE, the winnings covered everything but the woofers as far as parts went. The speakers appeared neutral enough for me, DSP will cover the rest of the ground when in my room.

    The Aesthetics plan - I like the driver combo in the Pit Viper, but not the original looks, I think it can be upgraded. Visually it's too tall and shallow but then again if it weren't you wouldn't have your classic monkey coffin. I went with a shorter and deeper cabinet. I flipped between designs. Something similar to Troels Graveson's 3 way classic/ATC SCM100, or his 3WC designs with flipped woofer and inlayed birch baffles. After some trial (wow baltic birch is expensive) and error (no table saw, couldn't make the cuts with accuracy needed) I decided to go for the ATC look alike. It's probably my favorite looking speaker and as a regular person with a regular job I'll never afford them. However I can have the next best thing (to me). I'm going to be offsetting the midrange and tweeter and making appropriate xover changes if needed. I figure there is some merit to this offset, but I guess it is just a change in diffraction profile.

    Sizing up the cuts with fancy new box strap clamps, they make life so much easier and were only $5.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	343436425_957600732323148_6213626537435756256_n.jpg
Views:	511
Size:	271.3 KB
ID:	1497165

    Getting a general Idea of the driver placement with sacrificial woofer

    Click image for larger version

Name:	343729708_760742435714112_31239116993328144_n.jpg
Views:	516
Size:	412.1 KB
ID:	1497166

    Oak Inlays/whatevers to hold tnuts for the baffle, coming together but we can do more.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20230428_143934.jpg
Views:	515
Size:	410.3 KB
ID:	1497167

    Let's give that baffle something nice and flat to sit on. I'm not good at word working, I just have nice router bits, at least that's what I tell people.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	342219670_591054576332056_8329356231078935743_n.jpg
Views:	516
Size:	140.4 KB
ID:	1497168

    They stand together on top of a lesson, some failed classix II made from pine. that's how figured out wood moves. I plan to some braces here and there. I wanted to keep these bare ply and avoid screws, but my joinery wasn't great and this ply isn't the best. Outer veneer is basically non-existent so not really suitable. I'll been veneering them instead which is great, because my Amiga's were veneered and look like a million bucks. Such a simple process for an incredible look IMO. The nightmare that is cutting the baffles begins soon. Wish me luck.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	343286260_2225220121018291_1859978190916969011_n.jpg
Views:	514
Size:	336.4 KB
ID:	1497169
    Attached Files

  • #2
    I see the Troel's 3WC influence. Good luck.

    Comment


    • #3
      I was trying the woofer in winisd with the intention of using a single port, it's telling me that with 67 liters, I can have a 4" port at 13 inches for 30hz tuning with much lower vent velocity than the stock 2 ports. Does that sound right?

      Comment


      • #4
        Uh ...
        yup.

        Comment


        • #5
          Baffle glue up. Need more clamps.

          Click image for larger version

Name:	341936728_634794427986749_8674691466670593354_n.jpg
Views:	480
Size:	427.6 KB
ID:	1497236

          One of my little helpers, her favorite place is the garage so she gets to roam free when I'm doing low noise tasks like glue ups.

          Click image for larger version

Name:	341914367_756724439325643_7309178282283811951_n.jpg
Views:	460
Size:	574.1 KB
ID:	1497237

          Got a really nice recess made for the midrange enclosure, some e6000 should seal everything well.

          Click image for larger version

Name:	344789762_136239432678581_1354872299553627950_n.jpg
Views:	456
Size:	214.3 KB
ID:	1497238

          First time doing a double layered baffle and man the holes takes their sweet time. Mostly because my old Jasper circle jig doesn't like my new router, can't get the guide pin to fit on certain cuts. I'm thinking it's time to retire this old jig, I got it from PE like 10 years ago. It's served me well.

          Click image for larger version

Name:	342982683_1944404205909483_6787389582374247699_n.jpg
Views:	461
Size:	450.9 KB
ID:	1497240

          Done for the day, moving some nickels around to get an idea of where I'll drill my bolt holes.

          Click image for larger version

Name:	342049827_1271536013451352_7943741566121219349_n.jpg
Views:	454
Size:	480.7 KB
ID:	1497241
          Attached Files

          Comment


          • #6
            great!

            Comment


            • #7
              Kitteh! Looks good!

              Comment


              • #8
                Did a small chamfer on the mid range, I wanted to do more but I was worried that the small lip of the ply would just kind break off.

                Click image for larger version

Name:	342358899_1463924411081205_2159305135305576945_n.jpg
Views:	412
Size:	187.3 KB
ID:	1497290

                I tried some fancier than-butt-joint joints that didn't work out too well, especially in the back. Rather than fill that all in I just slapped a piece of ply on the back. Who knows maybe it will help dampen things and I had the extra wood.

                Click image for larger version

Name:	342446005_159169053524373_1548145788764048940_n.jpg
Views:	401
Size:	334.6 KB
ID:	1497291

                Glueing in the mid enclosure and port tube. The port tubes are snug and aren't going anywhere, but I guess I needed clamps on the pvc caps as one fell out while I was flipping the baffle over to look at something. Just gonna leave them clamped for the three days the tube recommends.

                Click image for larger version

Name:	344780543_6150263385088354_3940422314456815004_n.jpg
Views:	397
Size:	450.2 KB
ID:	1497292

                Also routed a small channel on the cabinet face to put a strip of gasket tape.

                Click image for larger version

Name:	343707738_661236659107831_8439092920253145163_n.jpg
Views:	398
Size:	186.4 KB
ID:	1497293


                So much done and I'm exhausted, and intimidated by what is left to do. I've been trying to source the right bolts but having trouble. I'm looking for m6 x 60mm with a particular head type. This one to be precise - https://www.amazon.com/binifiMux-Har.../dp/B07WPKF76R but I can only find them in these little packs. If anyone knows the name of the head or knows where to get what I'm after I'm all ears.

                I think I've decided to go with macassar ebony for the cabinet but that's a ways off. I contacted Matt Grant to commission a xover PCB. I could toss the components on a bare pcb but I'd rather have the ease of install and polish that comes with having a nice xover pcb.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Looks like they are called ultra low profile socket head screws. Pretty spendy from McMaster-Carr. Hopefully you can find them somewhere else much cheaper.

                  McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

                  Craig

                  I drive way too fast to worry about cholesterol.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks, not even they seem to have that exact head, or at least I don't see it on their site. Yes pricey for sure. Seems there are plenty of options aliexpress and the like, I may just have to place a few different orders and see what I get in the mail.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Black Steel Furniture Connector Bolts hex flat head allen screws, Ebay, about $1 apiece, I'd link it but Ebay triggers PETT mods. I just searched your M6 X 60 on Ebay. I stopped at the first listing, might be cheaper ones. If I can find it in 5 minutes I'm sure you can.

                      If you can countersink there's true flat head options galore.

                      Click image for larger version

Name:	m6.jpg
Views:	382
Size:	100.0 KB
ID:	1497309

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hmm interesting problem. This was the first time I used the box strap clamps and I guess I didn't account for the cabinet flexing inwards. I should have put some pieces inside the cabinet to keep it all straights and not bow. There's about a 1-2mm differences on the ends to the middle of the cabinet. I honestly only visually notice if when I'm looking for it but I might try and tackle it somehow. I was thinking taking a large sheet of wood and glueing down some 80 grit sheets and just sliding the cabinet back and forth over that. I can't really think of anything else but really just debating if it's a problem at all or if I need to just let it go.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by joshshetter View Post
                          Hmm interesting problem. This was the first time I used the box strap clamps and I guess I didn't account for the cabinet flexing inwards. I should have put some pieces inside the cabinet to keep it all straights and not bow. There's about a 1-2mm differences on the ends to the middle of the cabinet. I honestly only visually notice if when I'm looking for it but I might try and tackle it somehow. I was thinking taking a large sheet of wood and glueing down some 80 grit sheets and just sliding the cabinet back and forth over that. I can't really think of anything else but really just debating if it's a problem at all or if I need to just let it go.
                          2mm difference should be much of an issue imo. Worth fixing if you chasing the perfect, but doubt it's going to make any impact on the sound either way.

                          Imo, just let it go :D
                          -Jim

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Steetson View Post

                            2mm difference should be much of an issue imo. Worth fixing if you chasing the perfect, but doubt it's going to make any impact on the sound either way.

                            Imo, just let it go :D
                            I've shown pictures to several people and they say they can't even see what I'm talking about, so I'm gonna assume it's a non-issue and I'm just chasing perfection.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Getting a bit more done, closer you get to finishing the longer things take it seems.

                              Little helper assisting with baffle bolt holes.

                              Click image for larger version

Name:	20230512_111745.jpg
Views:	233
Size:	314.5 KB
ID:	1497588

                              Bolt holes have countersink for 1/2" heads, 1/4" shafts. I ordered a few different bolts to try out, the winner will get another order to fulfill the 32 holes required to attach the baffles.
                              Ignore that it looks off the line, I used a router fence and all the holes are the same distance off. Honestly a bit tricky to line this stuff up. I had to use a router to "drill" these holes as it was the only way I was going to get that clean of a hole and have it be straight.


                              Click image for larger version

Name:	20230512_120210.jpg
Views:	218
Size:	352.3 KB
ID:	1497589

                              Getting the holes to go straight through nearly 3" of materials is kinda tricky. I have to clamp down the baffle, drive the router all the way till it just touches the oak, then I can drill a 5/16" hole for the tnuts in the exact location. I've had trouble with making straight holes for this sort of thing before, so I looked at my options. I found this kreg drill bit jig at lowes and I gotta say it works really well. Gives me perfectly straight holes all the way down.

                              Click image for larger version

Name:	20230512_170059.jpg
Views:	219
Size:	349.1 KB
ID:	1497590

                              One of the baffles done(ish). The process of doing these holes is pretty tedious and I'm not a fan of it.

                              Click image for larger version

Name:	20230512_120154.jpg
Views:	218
Size:	452.2 KB
ID:	1497591

                              Next up is I need to fashion a piece of oak to fit near the woofer braces. I kinda didn't think that one through and there's a little gap there where I can't put gasket tape, same for the port area and tweeter but those have enough bolts in those areas that it should close the gaps fine. Still waiting on the SD315 to be in stock to order.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X