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thank you friend. they sound pretty nice, but I'm eventually going to replace the 6.5" woofers with either peerless or Dayton when I rebuild them and I'll use the same color combo. I built these with too much wood, you can tell it when you listen to them, the 8" woofer resonates into the top cabinet. I'll use mdf when I rebuild them and I will be posting pictures for sure thanks for looking.
Maybe you could try using some stuffing. You did build a seperate, sealed, inner enclosure for the mid and tweeter, right? I'm pretty sure the more wood, the more damping for the enclosure. What did you use? If you used wide/large area (like thin plywood), thin stock for the TM box it may be acting like a membrane. You could try glueing/screwing 1" square sticks across the wide areas in a place or two for bracing to break up and raise its fs.
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy." --Winston Churchill
Maybe you could try using some stuffing. You did build a seperate, sealed, inner enclosure for the mid and tweeter, right? I'm pretty sure the more wood, the more damping for the enclosure. What did you use? If you used wide/large area (like thin plywood), thin stock for the TM box it may be acting like a membrane. You could try glueing/screwing 1" square sticks across the wide areas in a place or two for bracing to break up and raise its fs.
oh yeah, the mid and tweeter are in a separate part of the cab. idk why it does that, the wire going to the crossover in the top part from the 8" might have some to do with it. I use stuffing in both parts. but when I'm tweaking the crossover and tap the 8" inch I can hear it in the top part:( idk, all I know is is that i've planned on rebuilding the cabinets and making all drivers front-firing and adding a pr. but when I rebuild them the front and back will be double stacked
What does the crossover look like on that unit. Do you have any other specs on that RS 40-1033 woofer you could share. I have seen the little bit that RS has on site, but no curves.
In my 20 years, this was the second time Ive ever been to Alton Towers. First time I was 4 so I dont really remember much of that, or appreciate it. Really glad I got the opportunity to go on Monday though.
So much so that I think were going back in October for my 21st
What does the crossover look like on that unit. Do you have any other specs on that RS 40-1033 woofer you could share. I have seen the little bit that RS has on site, but no curves.
Thanks
M. Cote
ps call them The Dog Fathers.
it's a radioshack universal crossover, they don't look bad, I'm actually thinking about making the tweeter crossed at 5000hz so I could snap a shot of them if you'd like. they're crossed at 800hz and 7000hz right now. I wish to get a new cross over but the dayton's are expensive and I don't know of any other good trusted brands:( the FR on these is probably roughly 35hz-42hz or so if I were to guess. idk anything about curves sadly.
it's a radioshack universal crossover, they don't look bad, I'm actually thinking about making the tweeter crossed at 5000hz so I could snap a shot of them if you'd like. they're crossed at 800hz and 7000hz right now. I wish to get a new cross over but the dayton's are expensive and I don't know of any other good trusted brands:( the FR on these is probably roughly 35hz-42hz or so if I were to guess. idk anything about curves sadly.
Grab yourself a copy of one of the speaker building books; 201 seems to be recommended here often. What you learn from that will help you recognise the different parts soldered to the RatShack x-over and what function they serve.
Then you will be able to listen to your current speakers, evaluate the sound and make alterations to the x-over until you are getting a sound more to your liking. The goal here would be to get the response flat. That means you leave the Treble and Bass dials centered and the sound is not lacking nor over-emphasized in certain bandwidths.
There's a lot to the above steps, but it will give you a good grasp of where to start asking your next set of questions.
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy." --Winston Churchill
Grab yourself a copy of one of the speaker building books; 201 seems to be recommended here often. What you learn from that will help you recognise the different parts soldered to the RatShack x-over and what function they serve.
Then you will be able to listen to your current speakers, evaluate the sound and make alterations to the x-over until you are getting a sound more to your liking. The goal here would be to get the response flat. That means you leave the Treble and Bass dials centered and the sound is not lacking nor over-emphasized in certain bandwidths.
There's a lot to the above steps, but it will give you a good grasp of where to start asking your next set of questions.
sweet dude! 201, got it I appreciate that. yeah it would be easier just to redo all the capacitors and stuff on those for sure.
oh, well I've already gotten all the information I need on adding a Passive radiator to them when I rebuild and I keep the dials straight up unless I'm screwin around with excursion and stuff lol.
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