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It's looking great. I see the body filler came to the rescue again. I went back to my auto paint dealer and bought a gallon of the Evercoat Rage Gold. Fortunately, it was on sale. I can't wait to use it -- it sure looks like it worked well on your project..
It's looking great. I see the body filler came to the rescue again. I went back to my auto paint dealer and bought a gallon of the Evercoat Rage Gold. Fortunately, it was on sale. I can't wait to use it -- it sure looks like it worked well on your project..
Yeah, you'll be glad you did. Its great stuff. You can see how well it worked for me in getting crisp lines on those repaired edges. Apply, then sand with a little 80 grit, followed by 120 and its good to go
Sad to report...but more issues. So when I did the driver recesses for the Usher 8955a's, I didnt get a clean round cutout, and the recesses were too deep. When I initially test fitted I figured it was something I could live with, but after looking again now that the baffles are mounted...nope :(
I thought about it for a bit and came up with a neat way to fix it.
So...the solution? I used some veneer edge banding I had laying around and applied it to the inside cutout. I then cut some 3/4" pieces of drinking straw out and screwed the fasteners in enough to hold them in place. The reason for this was to prevent the filler from getting in the existing holes I had prepped for mounting. After that, it was on to filling the 'trenches' with some rage gold. Definitely a sloppy application, but what can you do...
I just had to be careful not to slop up the veneer I already applied.
Some pics of the prep and some pics coming soon with the result. My plan at this point is to just get a clean edge all the way to the driver cutout diameter and just surface mount them. Theres no reason why I really need to flush them in anyways, so that was the decision.
I am assuming that you used circle jig for the cut outs? You can make round filler with the same jig or even use the jig to make circle template and just re-cut to the depth.
I guess a nice, thick, cork gasket was out of the question?
Well, the only issue with that is that I'd still have a gap around the edge of the driver :o
I never thought about cork for a gasket though...thats a great idea.
I am assuming that you used circle jig for the cut outs? You can make round filler with the same jig or even use the jig to make circle template and just re-cut to the depth.
You know, I thought about this but I had several problems with doing it that way. First, I'd have to get the thickness of the filler piece right, and second...it wasnt a perfectly round cut as I had a little hiccup here and there on the cut for the recesses (router motor decided to start dying) so Id still have to use liquid filler for the little gaps :(
Pics coming shortly of the reworked areas which are now sanded...Just need my camera battery to charge a bit.
What would a spiral bit do to that filler(I have no experience with it)? Here is a thought. Why do you put veneer on now then drill your center pilot hole in the veneer and just try the recess again with a 1/4" bit then move inward to complete the recess. This all would depend on the fillers ability to stand up to the router bit.
Also, why do people cut holes before they veneer? I find it much easier to cut the recess and mounting hole after veneer is on. Tear out is not really an issue with any decent bit.
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