Back in November 2006 I decided the Dayton Reference RSS315HF (12") was just too pretty to pass up, so this is a little history on how my subwoofer project progressed (this was a project at the time I built it, but is now a Parts Express Kit -RS1200K)
My original setup consisted of an Elemental Designs e12O.14 (car sub) in a 2.2 ft^3 sealed enclosure, powered by a Phoenix Gold ZX400ti amp (run off of a Zurich DC power supply). One advantage of such a utilitarian looking setup is that my wife actually *wanted* me to spend money to improve the looks! The next step was to order the Dayton HPSA 500W amp and the 2.0 ft^3 sealed enclosure and move the 12O over:

The 12O had been a good sub, and had decent sound quality (SQ) for the most part, but on very complex material, the O could become a bit 'tubby' -- stand-up bass was especially disappointing. The hope was that the HF would give me a little better SQ, and gain me a few Hz of low-end in the process. The 12HF has much lower inductance than the 12O, and I figured that would help transient response. I also figure a true 4-ohm driver would make better use of my amps power... seeing as how the measured ReVC of my O is 5.8 ohms... pretty much an 8-ohmer.
This hand-made graph shows an idea of what was going on with the 12O:
My original setup consisted of an Elemental Designs e12O.14 (car sub) in a 2.2 ft^3 sealed enclosure, powered by a Phoenix Gold ZX400ti amp (run off of a Zurich DC power supply). One advantage of such a utilitarian looking setup is that my wife actually *wanted* me to spend money to improve the looks! The next step was to order the Dayton HPSA 500W amp and the 2.0 ft^3 sealed enclosure and move the 12O over:


The 12O had been a good sub, and had decent sound quality (SQ) for the most part, but on very complex material, the O could become a bit 'tubby' -- stand-up bass was especially disappointing. The hope was that the HF would give me a little better SQ, and gain me a few Hz of low-end in the process. The 12HF has much lower inductance than the 12O, and I figured that would help transient response. I also figure a true 4-ohm driver would make better use of my amps power... seeing as how the measured ReVC of my O is 5.8 ohms... pretty much an 8-ohmer.
This hand-made graph shows an idea of what was going on with the 12O:

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