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Carmody Tarkus 3-Way in a one-piece curved cabinet

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  • Randall Kepley
    replied
    Re: Carmody Tarkus 3-Way in a one-piece curved cabinet

    Great Job Cowtown, just dont forget to seal the plugs, if you realy thin the solution the 1/4" plugs will suck it up and should not expand and will dissapear. Another good trick to stop movement on something that small would be to go to the dollar store and buy 10 or 15 small bottles of crazy glue, they usually sell it 2 for a dollar and completly saturate both sides of the plugs , it will sink into every crevice, dry hard as chinese math and keep it from absorbing anyform of moisture. Come to think about it I would do this over the thinned poly, you can go wrong. Plus it will dry very fast which means you can get back to sanding the plugs and on to the veneer. Great job so far. R.K.

    Leave a comment:


  • critofur
    replied
    Re: Carmody Tarkus 3-Way in a one-piece curved cabinet

    Originally posted by cowtown View Post
    ...I read a few fairly convincing posts by respected builders that crossties are pretty effective...
    That's right. And a hardwood cross-tie is substantially better than an MDF shelf brace Even pine is better, as long as the length of the brace follows the grain of the wood.

    Leave a comment:


  • RINNAV
    replied
    Re: Carmody Tarkus 3-Way in a one-piece curved cabinet

    Originally posted by Wolf View Post
    "Carmody's Tarkus" is sounding humorous to me at the moment....:D
    Heh,
    Wolf
    LOL, I didn't think twice about it until you mentioned it--now I am laughing uncontrollably! Thanks Wolf:rolleyes:

    Jason

    Leave a comment:


  • Wolf
    replied
    Re: Carmody Tarkus 3-Way in a one-piece curved cabinet

    "Carmody's Tarkus" is sounding humorous to me at the moment....:D
    Heh,
    Wolf

    Leave a comment:


  • mattk
    replied
    Re: Carmody Tarkus 3-Way in a one-piece curved cabinet

    Originally posted by critofur View Post
    Probably worth putting in a cross brace which touches them slightly off center [I say off center so that the two sections will then resonate at different frequencies] then putting a screw through to connect the two. I'd say a cross brace is better than an MDF shelf brace - certainly in terms of performance to volume ratio... Making shelf braces out of 1/2" or 3/8" Baltic Birch would be very good though...
    I like using shelf supports, for want of a better term, of 3/4" thick mdf or plywood on either side of a cabinet with masonite attached to the supports (with holes of course).

    Leave a comment:


  • cowtown
    replied
    Re: Carmody Tarkus 3-Way in a one-piece curved cabinet

    Wow badman, that's some elaborate bracing. Looks great.

    At the risk of beating the bracing topic to death, I did a bunch of reading on this site re:dowels vs. shelves and windows, and decided on dowels because
    1) My box doesn't have a lot of extra volume and I didn't want to displace any more than necessary; and
    2) I read a few fairly convincing posts by respected builders that crossties are pretty effective (not to say that window braces don't work well - I've used windows in all past builds).

    I have a feeling that either method would work really well, but the dowels are also "something new" for me to try, and that appealed to me as well.

    Here are a few posts about crossbraces that I found really convincing:

    http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?p=1672676

    http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?t=221828

    http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?p=1729379

    Originally posted by critofur View Post
    Probably worth putting in a cross brace which touches them slightly off center [I say off center so that the two sections will then resonate at different frequencies] then putting a screw through to connect the two. I'd say a cross brace is better than an MDF shelf brace - certainly in terms of performance to volume ratio...
    I'll do that - thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • badman
    replied
    Re: Carmody Tarkus 3-Way in a one-piece curved cabinet

    Originally posted by critofur View Post
    Probably worth putting in a cross brace which touches them slightly off center [I say off center so that the two sections will then resonate at different frequencies] then putting a screw through to connect the two. I'd say a cross brace is better than an MDF shelf brace - certainly in terms of performance to volume ratio... Making shelf braces out of 1/2" or 3/8" Baltic Birch would be very good though...
    Or even out of 3/4". The problem with dowels is that they only restrain one point, where shelves tend to have dozens of times as much area. Attached is the bracing system I used for my "ultimate" bassbins.

    Leave a comment:


  • critofur
    replied
    Re: Carmody Tarkus 3-Way in a one-piece curved cabinet

    Originally posted by Pete Schumacher View Post
    ...the ONLY problem with hardwood dowels is that when they span a good distance, they will vibrate under load, deflecting the most at the midpoint between the ends. Just physics. That's one reason shelf braces are preferable.
    Probably worth putting in a cross brace which touches them slightly off center [I say off center so that the two sections will then resonate at different frequencies] then putting a screw through to connect the two. I'd say a cross brace is better than an MDF shelf brace - certainly in terms of performance to volume ratio... Making shelf braces out of 1/2" or 3/8" Baltic Birch would be very good though...

    Leave a comment:


  • Pete Schumacher
    replied
    Re: Carmody Tarkus 3-Way in a one-piece curved cabinet

    Originally posted by critofur View Post
    A single layer of 3/4" MDF will resonate/transmit some of the back wave - if you put your hand on it while the speaker's playing, you'll feel some significant vibrations.

    He would want to be very careful, if he uses a roundover/chamfer router bit, to avoid hitting the nuts... It's something I would probably go ahead and try, but, sparks might fly... Hopefully no bits of metal would end up impaled in flesh (safety goggles should cerrtainly be worn!).
    Originally posted by Paul Carmody View Post
    For what it's worth, I didnt' chamfer the back of the baffle for mine. Everything is just surface-mounted on 3/4" MDF (except the tweeter, which was flush-mounted).
    The thicker the baffle, the more problem a "tunnel" formed by the thicker baffle becomes. There is a chance for resonances to build up in that short chamber, in the upper mids, that a chamfer will greatly reduce.

    That's why I mentioned a drum sander. It's easy to grind away the spaces between the t-nuts.

    The ONLY problem with hardwood dowels is that when they span a good distance, they will vibrate under load, deflecting the most at the midpoint between the ends. Just physics. That's one reason shelf braces are preferable.

    Leave a comment:


  • Paul Carmody
    replied
    Re: Carmody Tarkus 3-Way in a one-piece curved cabinet

    Originally posted by cowtown View Post
    With the port and T-nuts. I didn't see any point in chamfering the insides of the driver holes - the drivers are so large and well-vented that there's no obstruction to speak of. I just hope the baffle is thick enough....
    For what it's worth, I didnt' chamfer the back of the baffle for mine. Everything is just surface-mounted on 3/4" MDF (except the tweeter, which was flush-mounted).

    Leave a comment:


  • critofur
    replied
    Re: Carmody Tarkus 3-Way in a one-piece curved cabinet

    Originally posted by cowtown View Post
    ...I didn't see any point in chamfering the insides of the driver holes - the drivers are so large and well-vented that there's no obstruction to speak of. I just hope the baffle is thick enough...
    A single layer of 3/4" MDF will resonate/transmit some of the back wave - if you put your hand on it while the speaker's playing, you'll feel some significant vibrations.

    Thanks for sharing/posting photos.

    I might be pressing my luck, but I cut through 3/4" MDF in ~ 3 passes with either the 1/2" or 1/4" spiral carbide bits...

    Hardwood dowels are excellent braces for a number of reasons. This thread has good photos illustrating their use. Of key interest is: they could be added AFTER a speaker was built, if somebody builds their speaker without realizing they should have put more braces, or they just figure later that they want to improve it.

    I'm quite pleased at the combination of value + quality combination of the drivers used in this project. I haven't heard them yet, but I have both the 10" SLS woofer and a box of 10 of the 5-1/4" "SDS" midwoofers, which would be a decent substitute given some crossover adjustments...

    The XT25TG30 tweeter could potentially be implemented as another option. I can't say as to whether it would be audibly superior having not seen direct comparisons between it and the DX25 though...

    Take a drum sander and grind away the back half of the cutout hole for the mid, to give them a little more room to breathe.
    He would want to be very careful, if he uses a roundover/chamfer router bit, to avoid hitting the nuts... It's something I would probably go ahead and try, but, sparks might fly... Hopefully no bits of metal would end up impaled in flesh (safety goggles should cerrtainly be worn!).

    Leave a comment:


  • Pete Schumacher
    replied
    Re: Carmody Tarkus 3-Way in a one-piece curved cabinet

    Originally posted by cowtown View Post


    --Colin
    Take a drum sander and grind away the back half of the cutout hole for the mid, to give them a little more room to breathe.

    Leave a comment:


  • cowtown
    replied
    Re: Carmody Tarkus 3-Way in a one-piece curved cabinet

    Originally posted by Soundslike View Post
    Fascinating build there Cowtown.
    Originally posted by snmhanson View Post
    Cool concept and great execution so far...I too built Monitors, and I am planning on building the Tarkus as soon as I can free up some time.
    Thanks! I've been using the Monitors as mains for over a year (with subs). I'm just itching to build something bigger, and different.

    Originally posted by Randall Kepley View Post
    Cowtown , take one of your dowels and for every dowel hole you have cut a 1/4" slice off of a scrap dowel to make a plug for each hole. Now take the "Thinned" poly solution I was telling you about and seal each side of the "Plugs" and the edges. When their dry flush glue the plugs on the Veneer side of you cabinets, when the glue fully cures sand a fill any voids you may have. Now on the inside of your cabinets you will have a nice recess and plugged stop for your dowels to ride against, you'll just have to do the math to shorten your dowels to keep your correct dimentions. This will also keep your cabinets from shifting. The 1/4" sealed plug will have no virtually no expantion or contraction and you can veneer right over it w/out worry. R.K.
    Thank you Randall. I didn't get too much done this weekend, but I did take your advice. (By the way, I saw that dovetailed battery box you built in another thread...:eek:. It's like I'm a Cro-Magnon man staring at an iPhone).

    It was difficult to cut the plugs without turning them into little bullets that flew off the saw blade and self-destructed when they hit something (I used a miter saw), but I eventually got 20 of them done. Taping the rod around its circumference before cutting helped a bit.

    So the plugs are in, and the hurricane nuts installed. Finally, I received the 3" Precision Ports, and had to narrow them down about 1mm to fit the recesses already cut. I should know by now not to cut port holes based on the published measurements, but my router was all set up from cutting the driver holes.

    20 plugs finally cut:



    Test-fit:



    With the port and T-nuts. I didn't see any point in chamfering the insides of the driver holes - the drivers are so large and well-vented that there's no obstruction to speak of. I just hope the baffle is thick enough....



    --Colin
    Last edited by cowtown; 07-27-2012, 06:06 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Randall Kepley
    replied
    Re: Carmody Tarkus 3-Way in a one-piece curved cabinet

    Cowtown , take one of your dowels and for every dowel hole you have cut a 1/4" slice off of a scrap dowel to make a plug for each hole. Now take the "Thinned" poly solution I was telling you about and seal each side of the "Plugs" and the edges. When their dry flush glue the plugs on the Veneer side of you cabinets, when the glue fully cures sand a fill any voids you may have. Now on the inside of your cabinets you will have a nice recess and plugged stop for your dowels to ride against, you'll just have to do the math to shorten your dowels to keep your correct dimentions. This will also keep your cabinets from shifting. The 1/4" sealed plug will have no virtually no expantion or contraction and you can veneer right over it w/out worry. R.K.

    Leave a comment:


  • snmhanson
    replied
    Re: Carmody Tarkus 3-Way in a one-piece curved cabinet

    Cool concept and great execution so far. I will be interested to get your listening impression when you are done. Particularly how they sound relative to your Statement Monitors. I too built Monitors, and I am planning on building the Tarkus as soon as I can free up some time. I love your curved cabinet design. I am going to implement some curves as well, though in a different way. Depending on how these turn out, maybe I'll just copy your design (with your permission of course).

    Matt

    Leave a comment:

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