Original Large Advent upgrade with Dayton drivers

[leesonic]

After having no luck selling my Original Large Advent cabinets, I finally got around to making new baffles to mount the Dayton drivers I bought. I couldn't resist bringing them in from the garage and taking some pictures. The baffles are just lying in the cabs, with pencil measurements still all over them, and the drivers aren't screwed down. I still need to cut holes for the reflex ports, make a sub-enclosure for the midrange driver, and figure out what kind of crossover I'm going to use.

Drivers are :

Dayton Audio DA270-8 10" Aluminum Cone Woofer
Dayton Audio DA115-8 4" Aluminum Cone Woofer (used as midrange)
Dayton Audio DC28F-8 1-1/8" Silk Dome Tweeter

Lee.

[ckmoore]

Re: Original Large Advent upgrade with Dayton drivers

Let me be the first to say, those have no right to look that sexy!

Those aluminum cones look GREAT in contrast to that wood. Great cosmetic choice...

Keep us posted on the electronics of it...

[[email protected]]

Re: Original Large Advent upgrade with Dayton drivers

those are going to look great! love the cherry baffle.

[Brewski]

Re: Original Large Advent upgrade with Dayton drivers

Nice job they're looking beautiful so far.

Take it easy
Jay

[bkeane1259]

Re: Original Large Advent upgrade with Dayton drivers

Great looking ~ glad you didn't give up on those cabs. Good luck on the internals. Long live the monkey coffin!! :D

[andykriech]

Re: Original Large Advent upgrade with Dayton drivers

Lee, those look outstanding. How did you refinish the cabinets?
Nice as those look, you won't be needing the grills!
Andy.

[Chris Roemer]

Re: Original Large Advent upgrade with Dayton drivers

After having no luck selling my Original Large Advent cabinets, I finally got around to making new baffles to mount the Dayton drivers I bought. I couldn't resist bringing them in from the garage and taking some pictures. The baffles are just lying in the cabs, with pencil measurements still all over them, and the drivers aren't screwed down. I still need to cut holes for the reflex ports, make a sub-enclosure for the midrange driver, and figure out what kind of crossover I'm going to use.

Drivers are :

Dayton Audio DA270-8 10" Aluminum Cone Woofer
Dayton Audio DA115-8 4" Aluminum Cone Woofer (used as midrange)
Dayton Audio DC28F-8 1-1/8" Silk Dome Tweeter

Lee.

You've got the real wood cabinets (mine are the vinyl covered utility).
That woofer wants a 4 cf vented cab, or 2 cf sealed.
Can't remember if that box is 1.4 or 1.7 cf.

Introduce yourself to WinISD at www.linearteam.org .
Possibly a 2"id x 7" long rear vent (it should chuff somewhat readily)
could get down to the mid 40's?

HP^3: 6.8uF, 0.30mH .4ohms, 18uF, SR=3n, PR=10n, reverse polarity
BP^2: 50uF, 0.50mH .3n, 2.0mH #20 shunt, 8uF shunt, Zobel = 8n+12uF, reverse polarity
LP^2: 8mH I-core 0.5 ohms DCR, 50uF npe shunt

About 86+/-1.5dB w/+4dBSC, LFc 400 Hz, HFc 2.4kHz

Chris

[bkeane1259]

Re: Original Large Advent upgrade with Dayton drivers

If I may stick my $0.02 in here -- that was mighty nice of you, Chris!!

[johnnyrichards]

Re: Original Large Advent upgrade with Dayton drivers

It is nice to see monkey coffins possibly making a return, or at least large woofered 3-way speakers. I have been playing with 3-way speakers this past summer, and I am no longer seriously interested in 2-way speakers beyond simple "satisfaction of the build".

You have come this far, why not take one more step and invest in a measurement rig? Those drivers absolutely deserve the best possible care.

I look forward to seeing the finished product!

[leesonic]

Re: Original Large Advent upgrade with Dayton drivers

Lee, those look outstanding. How did you refinish the cabinets?

I haven't... yet. I was going to give them a rub down and coating of Tung Oil with progressively finer grades of sandpaper. Like I did with my Bose 901s.

those are going to look great! love the cherry baffle.

You think I should keep it this color and not stain it to match?

That woofer wants a 4 cf vented cab, or 2 cf sealed.
Can't remember if that box is 1.4 or 1.7 cf.

Hmmm... I get 3.668 cf for a vented and 0.432 cf with BassBox. The cab is 1.545, with the tuning I'm using I get a slight 1.5db hump at 66hZ. Humpy bass, just like my JBL L100s.

Introduce yourself to WinISD at www.linearteam.org

Hello WinISD. Seriously though, will check this out.

HP^3: 6.8uF, 0.30mH .4ohms, 18uF, SR=3n, PR=10n, reverse polarity
BP^2: 50uF, 0.50mH .3n, 2.0mH #20 shunt, 8uF shunt, Zobel = 8n+12uF, reverse polarity
LP^2: 8mH I-core 0.5 ohms DCR, 50uF npe shunt

WOW! Thanks Chris. Any chance you could put this into a circuit diagram for me? Even if it's only scrawled on the back of an envelope or a piece of bog paper. I understand electronics fine, I've got the woofer figured out, but you lost me on the mid and tweeter. What did you use to calculate these by the way, the Win ISD?

PM me your address, and I'll send you some weird music as a way of saying thanks.

Lee.

[[email protected]]

Re: Original Large Advent upgrade with Dayton drivers

i suspect you'll have a hard time matching the cab. contrast would look good i think. perhaps just some wipe on poly. cherry darkens with time also. google finish for cherry and see what you get.
that woofer really wants that much room? how about with a pr?

[michiganpat]

Re: Original Large Advent upgrade with Dayton drivers

try some Howards' Restore-a-finish with some #0000 steel wool if they aren't seriously beat. I'm amazed at the difference it made to some AR2ax cabs I have.

I'd keep the baffle light. I like the contrast. maybe a few coats of boiled linseed oil

the smallest volume will be sealed...an optimized PR or ported system will be larger. I'd probably go sealed, at it's current volume, you're looking at a Q of about .82 or so. stuff heavily with fiberglass you'll get the effective Q into the mid .7 or so

if you place in the corners of the room you'll get a nice boost on the low end with room gain...

[Chris Roemer]

Re: Original Large Advent upgrade with Dayton drivers

I haven't... yet. I was going to give them a rub down and coating of Tung Oil with progressively finer grades of sandpaper. Like I did with my Bose 901s.



You think I should keep it this color and not stain it to match?



Hmmm... I get 3.668 cf for a vented and 0.432 cf with BassBox. The cab is 1.545, with the tuning I'm using I get a slight 1.5db hump at 66hZ. Humpy bass, just like my JBL L100s.



Hello WinISD. Seriously though, will check this out.



WOW! Thanks Chris. Any chance you could put this into a circuit diagram for me? Even if it's only scrawled on the back of an envelope or a piece of bog paper. I understand electronics fine, I've got the woofer figured out, but you lost me on the mid and tweeter. What did you use to calculate these by the way, the Win ISD?

PM me your address, and I'll send you some weird music as a way of saying thanks.

Lee.

If I drew it out, it would just run left to right (from amp - to driver)

HP^3 = 3rd order high pass
just like ANY HP^3: series cap, shunt coil (to gnd), series cap, then an L-pad just ahead of the tweeter using a Series Resistor and a Parallel Resistor

------cap------------cap------SR------ minus side of tweeter (+ side to gnd)
. . . . . . . . . | . . . . . . . . . . . . |
. . . . . . . . coil . . . . . . . . . . . PR
. . . . . . . . . | . . . . . . . . . . . . |


BP^2 is the (4" mid's) BandPass, and it's made from a 2nd order HP and 2nd order LP with a Zobel just ahead of the mid which is ALSO NEGative polarity

------cap------coil------------------------------------ neg side of mid
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . | . . . . . . | . . . . . |
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . cap . . . . coil . . . Zobel
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . | . . . . . . | . . . . . |


You've got the LP - just a series ------coil--------- + on 10"
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |
and a shunt cap to gnd . . . . . . . . . . . . . .cap

easy shmeezy

I don't have Excel so I use XOverSim.exe (from the old FRD Consortium site).
WinISD is just a box modeler. When you mentioned venting that 10" in a 1.5 cf box, I just wondered if you had modeled it. You COULD seal it up, but looks like vented reaches a bit lower (port dia being the biggest "problem") and it SHOULD also take a bit more power, although I didn't model THAT.

Unfortunately, w/out the original air-suspension woofer, the only way to get that box to hit 30 Hz again would be with EQ or with some smaller diameter woofer.

Chris

[leesonic]

Re: Original Large Advent upgrade with Dayton drivers

If I drew it out, it would just run left to right (from amp - to driver)

Like this?

[johnastockman]

Re: Original Large Advent upgrade with Dayton drivers

Like this?

That looks like the diagram I came up with. Great re-purpose of those Advent cabinets. I've re-done so many Large and Baby Advent cabinets with a DIY design I've lost count. I remember listening to my friends Large Advents for countless hours, with his 70's-era Marantz receiver, a nice Garrard turntable and his Akai R-to-R tape. They always sounded good to me, but that was without any experience with other speakers. When I built Speakerlab's very-similar S2 design, he was so sure his Advents would embarrass the 'labs. Turns out it was the other way around. I ended up building him some S'lab S3's, a same-size 3-way. He sold the Advents...wish he'd kept the cabinets, as for an OEM design, the original cabinets were well-made, compared to competitiors cabinets in that price range. Excellent job on your work. The most used DIY design for me with the Large Advents is Wayne J.'s Lyra 3-way. Just about perfect for some Large Advent enclosures. Let us know how it turns out. Love the aluminum drivers. Great look with the new baffle and the Advent shells.


John A.