Maurbacs NS6 MTM

[Adam_G]

Re: Maurbacs NS6 MTM

Here's some pictures. It's far from finished, but it is assembled. The current plan is to use Plasti-coat on the BB Ply we used because it's durable and looks pretty sweet. Attached is a sample piece with only one coat on it.
Also attached is an overall view and a view of just the bottom half. There is still protective paper over most of the speaker, that's what's hanging all over it and looks crappy.
Although the speakers are just press-fit in there, it sounds very impressive. There are still air-leaks around everything because I just picked up my gasket tape, but it sure does kick for its size. I've played a variety of music from George Winston's piano goodness to Zedd (<-- Look him up electronic / EDM Fans) and even some Lil' Wayne. On my crappy receiver it still sounds great! It hasn't made its way to the good one upstairs.
Plasti-Cote Test:
Overall View: (With some Infinity RSe's and Advent Larges I just brought back from the dead beside it)
Port Detail:
Top Detail:

Sorry the light is so terrible, it's in my basement with the sun shining in.
There's still a good bit of work to be done sanding down edges and the like, and I have to round-over the port yet, and do some filling, but overall it's a great design. Well done Don!

[donradick]

Re: Maurbacs NS6 MTM

Glad you like them. The mids are vey clear, and I'll bet you have some very good bass from the tower.

[Pallas]

Re: Maurbacs NS6 MTM

I am interested in high-efficiency and low distortion designs and will probably build one or more. Probably not with the NS6 drivesrs though.

Have you seen Bill Waslo's design with two horizontal NS6's under a SEOS-12? Something like that might be an interesting bridge to the controlled directivity/low distortion path.

[donradick]

Re: Maurbacs NS6 MTM

donradick, I have used this to flush trim veneer with very good results, I also veneer after cutouts.

http://www.carbideprocessors.com/dado-flush-trim-bit-1-4-cut-length-1-4-shank-whiteside-sc28c/

nice work on the cc.

Thanks Peepaj - I'll give it a try. I was originally planning on using my regular flush cut bit with a bearing on the bottom,
but the bearing was thicker than the driver recess.

[donradick]

Re: Maurbacs NS6 MTM

Have you seen Bill Waslo's design with two horizontal NS6's under a SEOS-12? Something like that might be an interesting bridge to the controlled directivity/low distortion path.

Yah, I think I saw that somewhere. Nice design. Man, I told myself "no more NS6s", but the pull is strong....

[rhubarb9999]

Re: Maurbacs NS6 MTM

Link to the design with the SEOS-12? I cant seem to find it.

[donradick]

Re: Maurbacs NS6 MTM

Link to the design with the SEOS-12? I cant seem to find it.

I can't seem to find that exact design, but here are a couplre of NS6 - Waveguide high efficiency designs:

http://www.diysoundgroup.com/forum/i...showposts;u=24

http://www.diysoundgroup.com/forum/i...=showposts;u=2

[rdv]

Re: Maurbacs NS6 MTM

Hi I am in the process of building a set of my own. I had just finished the crossover and had to stop to recover from sandy. I did manage to build the crossovers though. here's a pic


I was also able to wire the speakers to the assembled xovers and give them a listen. they do sound good. nice and open but i found the tweeters a bit hot for my preference. im still a bit of a noob at this but could it be because they still aren't in the enclosure? can i try lowering the tweeter level by swapping the resistor to a higher value? after building the box and installing the drivers of course.

[Adam_G]

Re: Maurbacs NS6 MTM

Hi I am in the process of building a set of my own. I had just finished the crossover and had to stop to recover from sandy. I did manage to build the crossovers though. here's a pic
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30737[/ATTACH]

I was also able to wire the speakers to the assembled xovers and give them a listen. they do sound good. nice and open but i found the tweeters a bit hot for my preference. im still a bit of a noob at this but could it be because they still aren't in the enclosure? can i try lowering the tweeter level by swapping the resistor to a higher value? after building the box and installing the drivers of course.

I wouldn't even consider modifying the crossover until everything is in the box. It is an entirely different animal in a well-made box. It is amazingly balanced in my opinion, after listening to it for a few hours. The NS6's dramatically improve after a few hours of breaking them in; I ran a 27hz signal through mine for about 8 hours and it made a world of difference.

If you for some reason do wish to modify the tweeter level, I believe that you could replace that resistor with another one, or possibly use an L-Pad, but I would double check that with someone who knows more about it than I do.

[donradick]

Re: Maurbacs NS6 MTM

Hi I am in the process of building a set of my own. I had just finished the crossover and had to stop to recover from sandy. I did manage to build the crossovers though. here's a pic
[ATTACH=CONFIG]30737[/ATTACH]

I was also able to wire the speakers to the assembled xovers and give them a listen. they do sound good. nice and open but i found the tweeters a bit hot for my preference. im still a bit of a noob at this but could it be because they still aren't in the enclosure? can i try lowering the tweeter level by swapping the resistor to a higher value? after building the box and installing the drivers of course.

rdv - that's a beautiful crossover!
Adam_G is correct, outside of the box, you are missing all of the bass, and much of the midrange, so the tweeters will sound too "hot".
If you still find them too bright after you have them together and broken in, you can change the tweeter resistor to a 3 or 4 ohm, but
I'll bet you'll like them as is.

Be sure to post pics of your build and your impressions!

[rhubarb9999]

Re: Maurbacs NS6 MTM

I found the tweeter 'hot' as well (in the box). I added a 1.5 ohm I had in series with the 2 ohm and thought it helped.

[rdv]

Re: Maurbacs NS6 MTM

rdv - that's a beautiful crossover!
Adam_G is correct, outside of the box, you are missing all of the bass, and much of the midrange, so the tweeters will sound too "hot".
If you still find them too bright after you have them together and broken in, you can change the tweeter resistor to a 3 or 4 ohm, but
I'll bet you'll like them as is.

Be sure to post pics of your build and your impressions!

Thanks! I appreciate the complement. the crossover is my favorite part of the build. i will post pics of the rest of my project but just a warning, my only tools are a drill and a jigsaw so no routering or things like that and I am definitely no woodworker. Don, I see that in your initial build, the drivers were not flush with the baffle right? so I should be good?

Adam, thanks for the input, It did cross my mind that the sound would balance out after the drivers are placed in the box, thanks for confirming this. I won't touch the crossover until everthing's installed and running for a while.

[dcgold2000]

Re: Maurbacs NS6 MTM

Link to the design with the SEOS-12? I cant seem to find it.

http://www.diysoundgroup.com/forum/index.php?topic=101.0

[donradick]

Re: Maurbacs NS6 MTM

I found the tweeter 'hot' as well (in the box). I added a 1.5 ohm I had in series with the 2 ohm and thought it helped.

I've been stuggling with tweeter voicing. I know I can't hear quite as high as I used to, but everytime I measure a prototype crossover
I want to make it look as flat as possible. I've been thinking that maybe I should drop the tweeter levels by 1 or 2 dB.

[donradick]

Re: Maurbacs NS6 MTM

Thanks! I appreciate the complement. i will post pics of the rest of my project but just a warning, my only tools are a drill and a jigsaw so no routering or things like that and I am definitely no woodworker. Don, I see that in your initial build, the drivers were not flush with the baffle right? so I should be good?

sorry for the slow response.
In my prototype box, the drivers were surface mounted, and everything else has been flush mounted.
That said, you don't have much of a choice with only a jigsaw.
Measure very carefully, use a straight board (clamped) as a saw guide, and a wood rasp to clean up the edges.
Finish with black truck bed liner or similar with a foam roller.
You can make a serviceable circle jig for your jigsaw with a piece of 1/4 inch ply.
The through hole for the tweeter is 1 3/4. You might drill it out at several points, then free hand your jigsaw
to make that hole. I've pretty much standardized on the PE 3/4 inch black philips wood screws.
They're cheap and work well.