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Dayton RS180 L/C/R Build
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Re: Dayton RS180 L/C/R Build
Looks great! Mine are still sitting unfinished although I bought some veneer several months ago. My thoughts were the same as yours when I fired them up...crystal clear, great imaging, realistic sounding bass.
I'm sure you probably don't want to take the drivers out again, but if so inclined, you could add another layer or two of gasket tape to bring the drivers back to flush with the baffle.
Happy Listening!
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Re: Dayton RS180 L/C/R Build
After quite a bit of critical listening I have some thoughts: The crown amps did not add anything that my Marantz AVR doesn't already provide. It actually added in quite a bit of hum which was no good. I'm saving one for a subwoofer project. That being said, the AVR has really impressed me. It has no problem driving all three of these 4 ohm speakers to levels that are uncomfortable. Overall the towers are fantastic! The imaging is ridiculous and they sound natural. At times the Aluminum tweeter can be just a bit harsh. If I was to do it again I may try the the other version. The tweeter on the center channel needs to be padded down with a larger resistor. Zaph specifically mentioned this and made it quite easy to play with. I will have to add some in the next PE order. Dialogue is insanely clear and articulate from any position. 30+ degrees off axis sounds exactly the same as dead center. It is awesome. If you were to play 5.1 music using the CC, there would most likely be some discrepancy between the towers and center. The tweeter is just a different sound. For HT, no worries. I can't tell any difference even with panning sound. All in all I'm super happy. I'll build some surrounds here at some point.Last edited by coniacvsop; 08-22-2015, 10:45 PM.
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Re: Dayton RS180 L/C/R Build
Yes, the standard Jeff B xo above worked great. There were a few people who built the tower versions based off the Nat P design. I mimicked the cabinet dimensions off of one of those and it worked well. I used the aluminum tweeter. I believe the the soft F version is a direct drop in, but there was a bit of controversy over that on Jeff's original thread. I can't remember what the conclusion was. I never heard these speakers in the original cab size, but the towers are more than enough to play on their own. Let me know if you have any more questions.
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Re: Dayton RS180 L/C/R Build
Originally posted by 01-0077 View PostLast question, I just had a look at the Nat P design you linked to, I cannot tell how far the tweeter is offset, I think in Jeff's thread he said it was offset about 1/2" is this what you did?
It's been so long that I don't exactly remember what I did. I want to say I simply measured a 1/2 off the center of the woofers and marked it. I would measure it for you but I won't be home for a few months. Sorry I don't have a more definitive answer for you.
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Re: Dayton RS180 L/C/R Build
What size of port did you use I want to build a tower version as well. I have looked over the thread you linked in the first post and the port diameter is listed but I cannot find the length, what size port did you use? It seams you like the bass so I am hoping for good bass.
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Re: Dayton RS180 L/C/R Build
Originally posted by Mobin View PostWhat size of port did you use I want to build a tower version as well. I have looked over the thread you linked in the first post and the port diameter is listed but I cannot find the length, what size port did you use? It seams you like the bass so I am hoping for good bass.
I believe that it tunes the design down to the low 30's Hz. I find the bass response more than enough for most of the music I listen to. Some hip hop and EDM will go lower than they can handle and I will just turn my sub on in stereo mode. The bass response from these guys is a lot cleaner and smoother than my 10" Titanic can provide. Let me know if you have any more questions.
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