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Re: The "Armadillo TM" A.K.A. "Lil' Dillo's"
Download the free program "Sketchup" if you don't have it already, and then PM me your email address so I can send you the file. If you're not familiar with sketchup, it's a 3D drawing program that some of the folks here (myself included) are using to design boxes. I find it's handy because I can build something in 3D, and work out all the measurements and any potential construction issues long before I cut any wood.
Here's a link to the program website, get the free version: http://www.sketchup.com/
And then I would suggest searching youtube for the basic tutorial videos.
Here's a screenshot of the crossover, front and back side, that I modeled in sketchup.
Re: The "Armadillo TM" A.K.A. "Lil' Dillo's"
The screen shop is helpful I'm very new at using a computer so don't think I know how to use that scetch up site.I'm almost 100% sure I can wire it up correctly from hear,thanks.
Re: The "Armadillo TM" A.K.A. "Lil' Dillo's"
Just went to madisoud and they say .25cu^ft3 so I guess the spec's are different depending on wich website you go on.I trust your build and looks like there 8ohm.I thought it said 4ohm at Mad.but not so.
Re: The "Armadillo TM" A.K.A. "Lil' Dillo's"
Recommended volumes from vendors are generally useless (like frequency range and recommended power). To get an idea about volume you need to use a box modeling program and the measured T/S specs.
In this case you have a completed design, and should use the designer's build values.
Many manufacturers offer both 4 and 8 ohm versions of many of their drivers. The part numbers typically only vary by a -8, -4, -08, -04 or similar at the end.
Just went to madisoud and they say .25cu^ft3 so I guess the spec's are different depending on wich website you go on.I trust your build and looks like there 8ohm.I thought it said 4ohm at Mad.but not so.
Re: The "Armadillo TM" A.K.A. "Lil' Dillo's"
Yes I see that even the spec's in the Mad. cataloge are different than the website that kind of tells the story.I will be following this build by the letter I'll be getting the drivers port tubes and terminal cups on the first I wish I could get everthing at once.I'm in early retirement and it drives me crazy just sitting around all day,500 channels on the tube and nothing good on.
Re: The "Armadillo TM" A.K.A. "Lil' Dillo's"
It says 0.58ft^3 is the 'optimum' vented volume, but truth be told that is just a suggestion. There are MANY alignments of box that you can use to build a design. So- it's not inaccurate, it's only one possibility.
Later,
Wolf
"Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith
Re: The "Armadillo TM" A.K.A. "Lil' Dillo's"
Bolland,will you or someone you know be entering these in the iron driver comp.I know you said your not big on covers but doesn't the rule's say that you can just drape the material over the front without it being attached.It would be nice to see how good of a showing they would do.
Re: The "Armadillo TM" A.K.A. "Lil' Dillo's"
Bolland I have a question about the placement of the drivers.It states in your thread that the tweeter is 2in from the top and mid 6in from the top that cant be to center right?Looks like it must be from the top edge correct?
Re: The "Armadillo TM" A.K.A. "Lil' Dillo's"
OK it looks like the tweeter is further down in the pic's,I quess not.I'm happy to say I looked in the garage to see how much wood I have left over from my sub build and it turns out I already have enough wood for the build.Thats great,so I should be done by the middle of next month(except paint)I'll keep you posted on how things are going,thanks.
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