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the drivers are rear mounted, hence the front is just mdf.
the entire case is built front backwards, ie the opening is at the back. its a bit of a squeeze getting things fastened up but having the front faceplate removable helps.
i plan to rebuild it so its completely flat in front without the oak faceplate.
also have a 2nd project almost done. Will post that in another thread.
Almost hate to say it....but the wood panel on the front almost looks out of place with the fantastic paint and retro look of the gauges, etc. Maybe a metal finished panel? Guess I will have to look into that when and if I ever build a boom box.
i agree. This deserves a rebuild.
Got it going already... just need to figure out how to get dovetail joints right.
Will put up pics once i have it cobbled together.
Can someone explain what kind of screws and length is needed to mount the drivers from behind and get such a clean look?
Paul's Sprite shows the screws on the front and at my skill level, I understand that. But this is next level.
Could I maybe get a picture from behind of someone that has done a similar project?
Would a 3/8th inch length screw worth from behind into 3/4inch mdf?
Here is the front and back view of one I did... I still need to chamfer the front.
Baffle is 1/2" thick and I used 1/2" long screws along with washers....
Also, you can find little posts with wood threads on one end and machine threads on the other (I can't remember what they are called). Those work well in hard to reach areas. Just mount the post in the wood and then you can use nuts to hold the driver to the baffle...
Here is the front and back view of one I did... I still need to chamfer the front.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]54874[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]54873[/ATTACH]
Baffle is 1/2" thick and I used 1/2" long screws along with washers....
Also, you can find little posts with wood threads on one end and machine threads on the other (I can't remember what they are called). Those work well in hard to reach areas. Just mount the post in the wood and then you can use nuts to hold the driver to the baffle...
I'm using a Baffel that is 3/4inch. What do you think If i recessed that back in 3/8th of a inch and screwed from the rear. Whats your thoughts on using a roundover on the front. Or is Chamfer better suited?
Generally a round-over is a better way to go because of less diffraction ( really a very minor issue) , and it leaves you more wood for the screws to bite into.
Also, you can find little posts with wood threads on one end and machine threads on the other (I can't remember what they are called).
They're called hanger bolts. Not sure if they come in a size that would work for a small driver/thin baffle. I've seen them sized for drawer pulls but the wood screw size might be more than 1/2" in length. Shortening with a hacksaw and predrilling the holes might do the trick. There was a thread where some builders had recommended hanger bolts to attach a wood baffle cleanly.
Don't you love learning by mistakes? I just cut my baffle with two 3.5inch holes. Got home and realized they were too big for the drivers. Parts express has the baffle cut out diameter at 3.35inches is that what everyone else is using?
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