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I'm using the Klipsch schematic xover with a mod on the tweeter. Crossovers aren't my strong suit (not sure what is???).
Got em done tiday and they have great impact and clarity. They are not super low bass speakers but have good low end. The horn tweeter is very clear. I hear things on some music I haven't heard before. I'll post pics later
My friend bought the woofers from Klipsch parts and I had the tweeter horns and K-67 drivers and built the xover from Klipsch schematic. These are 10" drivers that are used in the RF7ii speakers. Specs were really close on all the woofers I tested with WT2
Ken,
You are just absolutely amazing with that cabinet work. Good taste. They just look phenominal -- with the grills OFF! No reflection on your grill, but that's just too classy to cover up. Wish I had that kind of talent.
GeeDeeEmm
How did you like working with bendable ply? I've only used HDF or MDF thin sheets to make curved cabs with.
How did you do your glue-up, strap clamps?
Nice job, and the finish looks fantastic. I use wipe on poly myself all the time, I love the finish, and the process of wiping it in/on makes me feel like some kind of old-world craftsman or something!
How did you like working with bendable ply? I've only used HDF or MDF thin sheets to make curved cabs with.
How did you do your glue-up, strap clamps?
Nice job, and the finish looks fantastic. I use wipe on poly myself all the time, I love the finish, and the process of wiping it in/on makes me feel like some kind of old-world craftsman or something!
Thanks guys. GD I agree on the grill frames but the customer wanted them - and wanted them inset so they are friction mounted.
As for the tweeters the horn and driver (k-67) are used in the RF7 (not the 7ii). The woofers are used in the RF7ii. The RF7ii crosses over at 1200hz versus 2200ha on the RF7.
The bendable ply is great stuff!. It is so flexible that strap clamps aren't needed. I began at the rear and used staple gun and just pushed it down and stapled toward the front. Keep in mind I used a lot of PL premium adhesive on all frame contact points. I then clamped it down at the front and used more 1" staples. 2nd layer - same thing but used titebond glue in between with perforated drawer liner.
The good thing about bendable ply is no kerfing necessary. This stuff is great at bending and saves time. I'm about to build another curved set a lot smaller and will use it again. You should try it out. I was concerned at first about it being solid but with two layers with glue in between it is sturdy and solid. A lot easier than making a 45 degree angle on side which I did previously (and won't do again).
Great project and great looking speakers! Curves are a pain sometimes but look so damn good. I used to build and race "DN class iceboats" in my home state of Michigan and paid over $200 each for the 2 (Sitka spruce) main sideboards for the cockpit. Both had to be bent back pretty severely from end to end and if they cracked they were scrap. I always held my breath till I got them glued and clamped.
Great job and hope to see you at the Hot springs meet up.
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