1st Boombox Project - The Madeleine

[Millstonemike]

Gordy another question. Can you tell me what parts and how you hooked up the headphone jack?

Since Gordy hasn't answered yet, so I'll take a stab at it.

The Sure amp has L-R inputs using both RC and screw terminals mounted to the board. By default, the Sure PCB electrically connects these inputs together (e.g., L+ Screw = L+ RCA & R+ screw = R+ RCA, Gnd is common throughout). He connected the BT board directly to the RCA inputs using teh male-male adpaters (gold) and the "head phone" jack is a 3.5mm input jack connected to the screw terminals.

What I don't see is how the amp "switches" between the two inputs. When using BT and nothing connected to the 3.5mm jack, everything is fine running BT. When a device (e.g., mp3, player, phone, etc.) is plugged into the 3.5mm jack, the outputs of that device are in contention with the outputs of the BT board. That is, two low impedance sources are connected to one another.

See the pics in post 109.

Okay, now let Gordy set me straight ...

[jlwilsonjr]

Since Gordy hasn't answered yet, so I'll take a stab at it.

The Sure amp has L-R inputs using both RC and screw terminals mounted to the board. By default, the Sure PCB electrically connects these inputs together (e.g., L+ Screw = L+ RCA & R+ screw = R+ RCA, Gnd is common throughout). He connected the BT board directly to the RCA inputs using teh male-male adpaters (gold) and the "head phone" jack is a 3.5mm input jack connected to the screw terminals.

What I don't see is how the amp "switches" between the two inputs. When using BT and nothing connected to the 3.5mm jack, everything is fine running BT. When a device (e.g., mp3, player, phone, etc.) is plugged into the 3.5mm jack, the outputs of that device are in contention with the outputs of the BT board. That is, two low impedance sources are connected to one another.

See the pics in post 109.

Okay, now let Gordy set me straight ...

Thanks for the tip, I think I got it figured out!

[Gordy]

Since Gordy hasn't answered yet, so I'll take a stab at it.

The Sure amp has L-R inputs using both RC and screw terminals mounted to the board. By default, the Sure PCB electrically connects these inputs together (e.g., L+ Screw = L+ RCA & R+ screw = R+ RCA, Gnd is common throughout). He connected the BT board directly to the RCA inputs using teh male-male adpaters (gold) and the "head phone" jack is a 3.5mm input jack connected to the screw terminals.

What I don't see is how the amp "switches" between the two inputs. When using BT and nothing connected to the 3.5mm jack, everything is fine running BT. When a device (e.g., mp3, player, phone, etc.) is plugged into the 3.5mm jack, the outputs of that device are in contention with the outputs of the BT board. That is, two low impedance sources are connected to one another.

See the pics in post 109.

Okay, now let Gordy set me straight ...

This is correct. The inputs are tied together. My Dad knows to make sure the BT is not connected when he uses the 3.5mm jack.

[Millstonemike]

This is correct. The inputs are tied together. My Dad knows to make sure the BT is not connected when he uses the 3.5mm jack.

Is the BT module powered even though it's not connected? This may still be an issue; the BT module output still be low impedance with a null signal.

[Gordy]

Is the BT module powered even though it's not connected? This may still be an issue; the BT module output still be low impedance with a null signal.

Yes. He uses it often and has not been an issue as of yet.

[Mike The Welder]

Hey Gordy, have you had any issues with the 6.8uf 100v cap you used? The original OS kit calls for the 6.8uf 250v and my board has a space for the 250v version but I ordered the 100v part # from your pdf. If you haven't had any problems I'll just stick with the 100v, it's not like these speakers are going to see anything close to 100v. C3 is where the 250v cap should go so the 100v would fit just fine. I wanted to get these done by Christmas but, doesn't look like it will happen. I also ordered a 8 ohm resistor instead of a 6 ohm by mistake and PE is out of almost all the OS parts until January. I'm putting together a build thread on the 4 Madeleine's I'm building, 2 pretty much like yours and 2 with slight mods. I'll post a thead when I'm close to finished.

Merry Christmas.

[Chris Roemer]

The 100v cap will be fine. The 8 ohm resistor will probably subdue the tweeter by maybe a couple dB. You could parallel that 8n resistor w/one in the 20-30 ohm range to end up w/a 6n equivalent.

[adrenalnjunky]

Hey Gordy, have you had any issues with the 6.8uf 100v cap you used? The original OS kit calls for the 6.8uf 250v and my board has a space for the 250v version but I ordered the 100v part # from your pdf. If you haven't had any problems I'll just stick with the 100v, it's not like these speakers are going to see anything close to 100v. C3 is where the 250v cap should go so the 100v would fit just fine. I wanted to get these done by Christmas but, doesn't look like it will happen. I also ordered a 8 ohm resistor instead of a 6 ohm by mistake and PE is out of almost all the OS parts until January. I'm putting together a build thread on the 4 Madeleine's I'm building, 2 pretty much like yours and 2 with slight mods. I'll post a thead when I'm close to finished.

Merry Christmas.

I ran into the same issue - ordered the original part number instead of the one PE specs for the OS crossover kit. Ended up buying the 250v one just to fit my PCB - I have the same ones you pictured. Hope that guy keeps making them - since the ones in the beginning of this thread seem to be out of production.

I'm just about to start gluing mine up. Had a total brainfart moment yesterday and drilled B1 & B2 completely though for the PVC port, and did the 3/8" recess to the D2 panel. Had to go and recreate my B1 & B2 and do the recess on them. Thank the maker for template tape and flush trim bits. I swear my router is my favorite tool.

[Gordy]

What Chris said. I have built Ohs with both and cant tell the difference.

[Mike The Welder]

I ran into the same issue - ordered the original part number instead of the one PE specs for the OS crossover kit. Ended up buying the 250v one just to fit my PCB - I have the same ones you pictured. Hope that guy keeps making them - since the ones in the beginning of this thread seem to be out of production.

I'm just about to start gluing mine up. Had a total brainfart moment yesterday and drilled B1 & B2 completely though for the PVC port, and did the 3/8" recess to the D2 panel. Had to go and recreate my B1 & B2 and do the recess on them. Thank the maker for template tape and flush trim bits. I swear my router is my favorite tool.

Thanks guys I'll just stick with the 100v then.

Yep adrenalnjunky I could not find the boards Gordy used either. These boards seem to be good quality though. I bought 4 sets since I knew I was going to build at least 4 boxes. I'm getting close to glue up. I had to order a new rabbeting bit for the router to do the rabbet on the tweeter. I'm going to cut all the biscuit slots tonight then glue up should commence. I'll have to do 2 at a time because I don't have enough clamps to do all 4 at once.

[levdan]

Hi guys,

Not sure if this was mentioned anywhere in the thread (I did read the whole thing a couple of times, amazing build, can't wait to get the parts to dive into it myself ), but what's the CAD tool used for the plans?
I am looking for something lightweight and without a steep learning curve for 2D stuff (mostly wood and leather working). I like SketchUp for 3D, but it doesn't really work well for 2D plans (or maybe I just don't know how to use it )

Thanks!

[Gordy]

I used the ever so complicated...Microsoft Visio. I no longer use Visio and use SketchUp for everything.

[levdan]

I used the ever so complicated...Microsoft Visio. I no longer use Visio and use SketchUp for everything.

Thanks! I somehow didn't think of Visio, despite the countless hours of using it back in the day

[Gordy]

Thanks! I somehow didn't think of Visio, despite the countless hours of using it back in the day

I was really into it and could do pretty much everything I wanted to do except 3D. A fellow member challenged me to learn SketchUp and I did. Best suggestion ever. When I design anything (speaker box, the wife's craft room with Ikea storage and furniture) SketchUp is where is at.

[12v]

Wow I'm thoroughly impressed. Looks beautiful, and you definitely have skills. Great job and thank you for sharing!