Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

1st Boombox Project - The Madeleine

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • levdan
    replied
    Originally posted by Millstonemike View Post

    Really nice. I like the contrast of the driver surrounds and the metal cones with the light and dark grain of the stained oak.

    Thanks Mike, this is exactly the effect I was trying to achieve.
    I am starting the TriTrix build this week, but I am going to use baltic birch ply, staining it is going to be a real challenge

    Leave a comment:


  • Millstonemike
    replied
    Originally posted by levdan View Post
    My take on the Madeleine, in fact this is my first woodworking project ever. This is red oak, stained with Jacobean and finished with wipe-on poly. Completely blown away by the sound, thanks, Gordy, for a great tutorial and the inspiration!
    Really nice. I like the contrast of the driver surrounds and the metal cones with the light and dark grain of the stained oak.

    Leave a comment:


  • levdan
    replied
    Originally posted by Jeff F. View Post
    Looks pretty darn good for a first time project! They do have awesome sound. I'm curious, did you use the same amp as Gordy, or a different one?

    Thanks Jeff! I actually used the Wondom AA-AC11161, nice amp, it's got integrated BT4.0 and comes with all the wiring, LEDs (which I have yet to install ) etc.
    Here's the link to the amp:
    Wondom AA-AC11161 2x30W 4-8 Ohm Class D Audio Amplifier Board BT4.0 with Functional Cables

    Leave a comment:


  • Jeff F.
    replied
    Looks pretty darn good for a first time project! They do have awesome sound. I'm curious, did you use the same amp as Gordy, or a different one?

    Leave a comment:


  • levdan
    replied
    My take on the Madeleine, in fact this is my first woodworking project ever. This is red oak, stained with Jacobean and finished with wipe-on poly. Completely blown away by the sound, thanks, Gordy, for a great tutorial and the inspiration!

    Leave a comment:


  • 12v
    replied
    Wow I'm thoroughly impressed. Looks beautiful, and you definitely have skills. Great job and thank you for sharing!

    Leave a comment:


  • Gordy
    replied
    Originally posted by levdan View Post


    Thanks! I somehow didn't think of Visio, despite the countless hours of using it back in the day
    I was really into it and could do pretty much everything I wanted to do except 3D. A fellow member challenged me to learn SketchUp and I did. Best suggestion ever. When I design anything (speaker box, the wife's craft room with Ikea storage and furniture) SketchUp is where is at.

    Leave a comment:


  • levdan
    replied
    Originally posted by Gordy View Post
    I used the ever so complicated...Microsoft Visio. I no longer use Visio and use SketchUp for everything.

    Thanks! I somehow didn't think of Visio, despite the countless hours of using it back in the day

    Leave a comment:


  • Gordy
    replied
    I used the ever so complicated...Microsoft Visio. I no longer use Visio and use SketchUp for everything.

    Leave a comment:


  • levdan
    replied
    Hi guys,

    Not sure if this was mentioned anywhere in the thread (I did read the whole thing a couple of times, amazing build, can't wait to get the parts to dive into it myself ), but what's the CAD tool used for the plans?
    I am looking for something lightweight and without a steep learning curve for 2D stuff (mostly wood and leather working). I like SketchUp for 3D, but it doesn't really work well for 2D plans (or maybe I just don't know how to use it )

    Thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike The Welder
    replied
    Originally posted by adrenalnjunky View Post

    I ran into the same issue - ordered the original part number instead of the one PE specs for the OS crossover kit. Ended up buying the 250v one just to fit my PCB - I have the same ones you pictured. Hope that guy keeps making them - since the ones in the beginning of this thread seem to be out of production.

    I'm just about to start gluing mine up. Had a total brainfart moment yesterday and drilled B1 & B2 completely though for the PVC port, and did the 3/8" recess to the D2 panel. Had to go and recreate my B1 & B2 and do the recess on them. Thank the maker for template tape and flush trim bits. I swear my router is my favorite tool.
    Thanks guys I'll just stick with the 100v then.

    Yep adrenalnjunky I could not find the boards Gordy used either. These boards seem to be good quality though. I bought 4 sets since I knew I was going to build at least 4 boxes. I'm getting close to glue up. I had to order a new rabbeting bit for the router to do the rabbet on the tweeter. I'm going to cut all the biscuit slots tonight then glue up should commence. I'll have to do 2 at a time because I don't have enough clamps to do all 4 at once.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gordy
    replied
    What Chris said. I have built Ohs with both and cant tell the difference.

    Leave a comment:


  • adrenalnjunky
    replied
    Originally posted by Mike The Welder View Post
    Hey Gordy, have you had any issues with the 6.8uf 100v cap you used? The original OS kit calls for the 6.8uf 250v and my board has a space for the 250v version but I ordered the 100v part # from your pdf. If you haven't had any problems I'll just stick with the 100v, it's not like these speakers are going to see anything close to 100v. C3 is where the 250v cap should go so the 100v would fit just fine. I wanted to get these done by Christmas but, doesn't look like it will happen. I also ordered a 8 ohm resistor instead of a 6 ohm by mistake and PE is out of almost all the OS parts until January. I'm putting together a build thread on the 4 Madeleine's I'm building, 2 pretty much like yours and 2 with slight mods. I'll post a thead when I'm close to finished.

    Merry Christmas.
    I ran into the same issue - ordered the original part number instead of the one PE specs for the OS crossover kit. Ended up buying the 250v one just to fit my PCB - I have the same ones you pictured. Hope that guy keeps making them - since the ones in the beginning of this thread seem to be out of production.

    I'm just about to start gluing mine up. Had a total brainfart moment yesterday and drilled B1 & B2 completely though for the PVC port, and did the 3/8" recess to the D2 panel. Had to go and recreate my B1 & B2 and do the recess on them. Thank the maker for template tape and flush trim bits. I swear my router is my favorite tool.

    Leave a comment:


  • Chris Roemer
    replied
    The 100v cap will be fine. The 8 ohm resistor will probably subdue the tweeter by maybe a couple dB. You could parallel that 8n resistor w/one in the 20-30 ohm range to end up w/a 6n equivalent.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike The Welder
    replied
    Hey Gordy, have you had any issues with the 6.8uf 100v cap you used? The original OS kit calls for the 6.8uf 250v and my board has a space for the 250v version but I ordered the 100v part # from your pdf. If you haven't had any problems I'll just stick with the 100v, it's not like these speakers are going to see anything close to 100v. C3 is where the 250v cap should go so the 100v would fit just fine. I wanted to get these done by Christmas but, doesn't look like it will happen. I also ordered a 8 ohm resistor instead of a 6 ohm by mistake and PE is out of almost all the OS parts until January. I'm putting together a build thread on the 4 Madeleine's I'm building, 2 pretty much like yours and 2 with slight mods. I'll post a thead when I'm close to finished.

    Merry Christmas.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X