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While the Nathans do a very good job of producing bass down to about 60 Hz and sounding much larger than their size would suggest, sometimes, ya need a little more. The Nathans were designed to be first and foremost a desktop/bookshelf speaker so I incorporated only a couple of db of BSC.
The bass bins hold Dayton SD215-88 subwoofers and are a visual match to the DS115 above it. I did not want to go the plate amp route on these for a couple of reasons. First, these woofers are dvc, 8ohm per coil, so 2 amps would have been necessary. Nah not spending the money. I wanted the cabinets to act as stands for the little guys and get them up to ear level. So now what to do about a crossover? What I did was to use a 2nd order electrical on the subs, consisting of a 4mh coil and 147uf worth of cap, and a 33uf cap going to the MT section. This crossover is incorporated in the sub cabinet. This way if I want to just run the uppers, its all plug and play.
In true cheapskate, quicky type build bravado, I reused a pair of Yamaha 1 cube cabinets. I added bracing to the sides and top, doubled up the back and made a new front baffle of 1" mdf. The port consists of the internal flare of a power port and tunes the enclosure to about 35Hz. Lightly lined with mattress topper. The feet are 3/4" PVC pipe plugs and couplings, spray painted with hammered metallic black. The upper stand is simply OSB bolted to the bass bins with 1/4-20x1.5" bolts and painted with the same metallic black. The bass bin itself is duratexed.
They sound quite good and can take a pretty good amount of power. I am running them off of my Adcom GFA555 and they have no problem at all. On to the pics....
The bass bins hold Dayton SD215-88 subwoofers and are a visual match to the DS115 above it. I did not want to go the plate amp route on these for a couple of reasons. First, these woofers are dvc, 8ohm per coil, so 2 amps would have been necessary. Nah not spending the money. I wanted the cabinets to act as stands for the little guys and get them up to ear level. So now what to do about a crossover? What I did was to use a 2nd order electrical on the subs, consisting of a 4mh coil and 147uf worth of cap, and a 33uf cap going to the MT section. This crossover is incorporated in the sub cabinet. This way if I want to just run the uppers, its all plug and play.
In true cheapskate, quicky type build bravado, I reused a pair of Yamaha 1 cube cabinets. I added bracing to the sides and top, doubled up the back and made a new front baffle of 1" mdf. The port consists of the internal flare of a power port and tunes the enclosure to about 35Hz. Lightly lined with mattress topper. The feet are 3/4" PVC pipe plugs and couplings, spray painted with hammered metallic black. The upper stand is simply OSB bolted to the bass bins with 1/4-20x1.5" bolts and painted with the same metallic black. The bass bin itself is duratexed.
They sound quite good and can take a pretty good amount of power. I am running them off of my Adcom GFA555 and they have no problem at all. On to the pics....
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