All,
This is my first design, rougly based on RJB's Cerberus sub. Let me know what you think.
In brief
Tang Band W6-1139SIF $50
Dayton SA70 $60
Dayton SD270 PR, with 190g mass added to the cone $25
12" cube gross (could use the PE prefab .67 cu ft cabinet)
Total cost ~ $170
F3/6/10 at 32/28/25
99 db

Design Goals
The idea was to design a small, low-budget, good looking sub that could fill out the bottom end of my Overnight Sensation MTMs. This sub will be used almost exclusively for music, and I'm an apartment dweller, so I wasn't after 25hz at 110SPL. I just wanted a clearer bottom octave, and to feel some bass. The Cerberus, with its combination of Tang Band W6-1139 and Dayton SA70, seemed to fit the bill, but that vent....it just seemed like something I didn't want to deal with. Other builders reported chuffing problems, and the 2" port looked pretty cramped in that box. I probably made too much of those challenges, as RJB's designs are well regarded and lots of folks have built the original Cerberus with no problems. Still: one obvious solution to the port problem is to use a PR. Plus, hey, it would be fun to design this around a PR.
With the help of Wolf, fastbike1, jonpike, and others, I modeled the W6 in a .55 cu ft box (the net volume of a 12" cube after subtracting amp and driver) with the SD270 10" PR, with 190g mass added to the cone. This tunes the box to 32.5hz, yielding F3/F6/F10 of 32/28/25. Models at 99dB with 70 watts, without excursion issues (once the 20hz highpass on the SA70 is factored in). So I won't be powering the neighborhood block party, but it should be enough for my needs.
Construction
It's a tight squeeze to get the driver, PR, and amp in this little box, and I had to position the amp and driver off center. But everything fits comfortably, with the PR on the side, the driver down-firing, and the amp on the back.
I wanted to dress up this little box. I built it out of 3/4 birch ply, with a douglass fir frame around a ply panel for the front. The ply panel is glued into the grooves on the frame, which eliminates potential rattling. I'm happy with how it looks: I really like the added detail of the frame on the front.
I painted the box with "French Gray" milk paint. I really love milk paint, both for its ease of application, non-toxicity, and deep, streaky color. I topcoated it with a couple coats of dewaxed shellac, which deepens the color and provides a real smooth surface (FWIW, this was my first time top-coating milk paint with shellac. I'll return to wax or oil in the future - the shellac was difficult to level in this application). I finished the base in shellac.
Hopefully I'm not being presumptuous in renaming a modified design, but I call it the French Bulldog. The name is an homage to RJB's "Cerberus" designation - Cerberus was a hellhound in Roman mythology. Mine is painted in french gray, and maybe it's not from hell, but a small, short-legged, apartment-friendly companion to my stand-mounted Overnight Sensations.

Listening Impressions
Sounds good! The French Bulldog does exactly what I want: it fills out the bottom end and makes my system sound much bigger and fuller. On one of my favorite tracks - Kort's "Invariable Heartache" - I can really hear the low double-bass plucking along, where it was muddy and undefined before. The French Bulldog goes plenty loud and low for my modest living room. I cranked it up the other day, and thought "woah, that's too loud" before I ever reached excursion limits or ran out of watts.
One final thought: I called PE today, and asked them whether the high level inputs on the SA70 simply passed the full-range signal through the plate amp to the speakers, or if it actually high-passed the signal to the speakers, thereby taking the low frequencies away from the OS MTMs. The tech told me that it's a pass-through. I'd like to be able to remove bass duty from the mains, thereby freeing them up for midrange clarity. Any thoughts on how to best accomplish this? Should I just connect an 80hz low pass crossover from the output of the plate amp to each speaker? Is it even worth my money, or should I just be happy as is?
Thanks for reading!
Justin
This is my first design, rougly based on RJB's Cerberus sub. Let me know what you think.
In brief
Tang Band W6-1139SIF $50
Dayton SA70 $60
Dayton SD270 PR, with 190g mass added to the cone $25
12" cube gross (could use the PE prefab .67 cu ft cabinet)
Total cost ~ $170
F3/6/10 at 32/28/25
99 db
Design Goals
The idea was to design a small, low-budget, good looking sub that could fill out the bottom end of my Overnight Sensation MTMs. This sub will be used almost exclusively for music, and I'm an apartment dweller, so I wasn't after 25hz at 110SPL. I just wanted a clearer bottom octave, and to feel some bass. The Cerberus, with its combination of Tang Band W6-1139 and Dayton SA70, seemed to fit the bill, but that vent....it just seemed like something I didn't want to deal with. Other builders reported chuffing problems, and the 2" port looked pretty cramped in that box. I probably made too much of those challenges, as RJB's designs are well regarded and lots of folks have built the original Cerberus with no problems. Still: one obvious solution to the port problem is to use a PR. Plus, hey, it would be fun to design this around a PR.
With the help of Wolf, fastbike1, jonpike, and others, I modeled the W6 in a .55 cu ft box (the net volume of a 12" cube after subtracting amp and driver) with the SD270 10" PR, with 190g mass added to the cone. This tunes the box to 32.5hz, yielding F3/F6/F10 of 32/28/25. Models at 99dB with 70 watts, without excursion issues (once the 20hz highpass on the SA70 is factored in). So I won't be powering the neighborhood block party, but it should be enough for my needs.
Construction
It's a tight squeeze to get the driver, PR, and amp in this little box, and I had to position the amp and driver off center. But everything fits comfortably, with the PR on the side, the driver down-firing, and the amp on the back.
I wanted to dress up this little box. I built it out of 3/4 birch ply, with a douglass fir frame around a ply panel for the front. The ply panel is glued into the grooves on the frame, which eliminates potential rattling. I'm happy with how it looks: I really like the added detail of the frame on the front.
I painted the box with "French Gray" milk paint. I really love milk paint, both for its ease of application, non-toxicity, and deep, streaky color. I topcoated it with a couple coats of dewaxed shellac, which deepens the color and provides a real smooth surface (FWIW, this was my first time top-coating milk paint with shellac. I'll return to wax or oil in the future - the shellac was difficult to level in this application). I finished the base in shellac.
Hopefully I'm not being presumptuous in renaming a modified design, but I call it the French Bulldog. The name is an homage to RJB's "Cerberus" designation - Cerberus was a hellhound in Roman mythology. Mine is painted in french gray, and maybe it's not from hell, but a small, short-legged, apartment-friendly companion to my stand-mounted Overnight Sensations.
Listening Impressions
Sounds good! The French Bulldog does exactly what I want: it fills out the bottom end and makes my system sound much bigger and fuller. On one of my favorite tracks - Kort's "Invariable Heartache" - I can really hear the low double-bass plucking along, where it was muddy and undefined before. The French Bulldog goes plenty loud and low for my modest living room. I cranked it up the other day, and thought "woah, that's too loud" before I ever reached excursion limits or ran out of watts.
One final thought: I called PE today, and asked them whether the high level inputs on the SA70 simply passed the full-range signal through the plate amp to the speakers, or if it actually high-passed the signal to the speakers, thereby taking the low frequencies away from the OS MTMs. The tech told me that it's a pass-through. I'd like to be able to remove bass duty from the mains, thereby freeing them up for midrange clarity. Any thoughts on how to best accomplish this? Should I just connect an 80hz low pass crossover from the output of the plate amp to each speaker? Is it even worth my money, or should I just be happy as is?
Thanks for reading!
Justin
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