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Sorry if this has already been asked and answered - but has anybody tried the little Peerless PR in this build? Might be a good alternative to squeezing a port into that small box.
I tried to model the Peerless PR for this design, but didn't really get any better extension than going sealed. The port is a pain, but it seems to be the only way to go.
Keep an open mind, but don't let your brain fall out.
Flyfishingnitin,
I don't have picks of the build, but I do have a third speaker that is about ready for some varnish that I can get some more detailed shots of. The trick to doing this type of build is to use a box joint jig. I made one from a you tube poster (see link for jig: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYxDXHGRRrk). I prefer a table saw dato or box blade over doing the joints on a router. I get less tear out on the table saw. I used half inch thick stock for this build. Build a basic box using the box joints on 4 corners. I glued a slightly oversized front baffle onto the front. Route the oversized front baffle flush with a flush trim bit. Sand all of the edges even then round over the corners. I used a 3/8 inch round over bit on this build. I decided to rabbet the back of the box so that I could install a removable back panel in order to access the inside. Route the rabbet after rounding over the corners.
Cut your front holes for the drivers with a combination of circle hole router jig and forstner bits. I rear mounted the woofer because the frame is not very appealing on this driver and I wanted to have as much walnut showing as possible. Sand everything to 220 grit or so and liberally apply 2 to 3 coats of danish oil.
Let the danish oil dry for about 3 days then apply some varnish. I used satin but gloss would be fine. Here's the speaker after danish oil but before varnish.
I used a liberal amount of 2 part epoxy on the inside of the cabinet to reinforce the hardwood baffle and the hole for speaker wire terminal because I wanted to reduce the chance of the wood splitting.
Great build, i am planning on building a sound bar using your specs. I am ready to order parts, can i use this for the 1mh coil? 269-2124
You certainly can use that inductor. It looks very similar to the one I used.
I would also like to shout out to a_c_arnold. That is some first rate craftsmanship and a great looking build. My black duratex over MDF flat pack is third or fourth rate by comparison.
Keep an open mind, but don't let your brain fall out.
I would also like to shout out to a_c_arnold. That is some first rate craftsmanship and a great looking build. My black duratex over MDF flat pack is third or fourth rate by comparison.
Except for the color, that does look very much like the ones we were getting from dynavox last year. You really do need something that small because there isn't much room inside those boxes. Really nice price, too.
Greetings,
I am working on a new version of the Helium.
This will be an 8 ohm version using the same driver except in 8 ohms.
I will post some pictures later and the new Xover layout.
These will be Helium II.
There are some changes to the Xover and Scott was so helpful in designing. I have no math skills and equipment to judge except my bad ears.
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