I was at Meniscus Audio a while ago and was contemplating a build for my shop when Chad played their HO-10 build for me. I was impressed and he made me a good deal on it since he already had a pair built. After I used them for about 3 ish months I decided they were a bit too bright, plus they lacked the deeper bass I wanted so I decided to move on (that's when I built my Blues MTM/TL). But, my dad absolutely loved these speakers so I decided to make some new, curved cabinets for his cottage using his Chris Craft Launch 22 speed boat as my inspiration; here's what I came up with...
First I made the frames. These are about 23" tall, and if I was going to do this again I'd have added another brace. I don't think they're at all weak or that the cabinets will resonate, but it would've made the build easier.

Then I wrapped the cabinets in layers of 1/8" baltic birch that I clamped with frames I made. The first layer was applied to the frame with PL construction adhesive, the rest of the layers were glued using rolled on TiteBond original woodglue.

The best method I found for trimming the excess off the sides of the cabinets was to first jigsaw it fairly close (with the jigsaw base set at the angle of the cabinet), then finish sand it. I tried the router method but it wanted to chew the wood up dangerously bad.

I glued a 1/4" thick piece of MDF to the top and bottom to hide the endgrain from the BB, as well as pinning some pieces to the backs to give the rear baffle a recessed look. I also clamped/glued teak to the front baffle, as well as bondo'd the dips or waves in the sides of the curved Baltic birch that were there after clamping the panels.
First I made the frames. These are about 23" tall, and if I was going to do this again I'd have added another brace. I don't think they're at all weak or that the cabinets will resonate, but it would've made the build easier.
Then I wrapped the cabinets in layers of 1/8" baltic birch that I clamped with frames I made. The first layer was applied to the frame with PL construction adhesive, the rest of the layers were glued using rolled on TiteBond original woodglue.
The best method I found for trimming the excess off the sides of the cabinets was to first jigsaw it fairly close (with the jigsaw base set at the angle of the cabinet), then finish sand it. I tried the router method but it wanted to chew the wood up dangerously bad.
I glued a 1/4" thick piece of MDF to the top and bottom to hide the endgrain from the BB, as well as pinning some pieces to the backs to give the rear baffle a recessed look. I also clamped/glued teak to the front baffle, as well as bondo'd the dips or waves in the sides of the curved Baltic birch that were there after clamping the panels.
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