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My Classix II

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  • My Classix II

    It certainly isn't saw dust but progress non the less. I have the crossover mocked up and the enclosures are glued up minus the front baffle's.

    I'll dry fit the XO tomorrow and provided its all GTG I'll get em soldered up and installed in the box.

    The top and bottom of the XO pic are the positive legs and down the center will be the two negative runs. Any changes need to be made before I get the soldering iron hot?

    Click image for larger version

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  • #2
    Re: My Classix II

    I'm not gonna look up the schemo. (assuming you're following it correctly), but I'll make 1 suggestion.

    You don't really have to twist the pisz out of the leads. When you do (and especially when you choke them so short) it'll make it nearly impossible to make any crx. or changes later (not that you're planning on taking them apart - we never do!), at least it makes it a giant PITA. All that's really needed is just one wrap (one around another) or to hook 2 together w/simple bends, like 2 interlocking fishhooks. You just need a bit of a mechanical connection. The solder will make most of the elec. cnx. Just a thought.

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    • #3
      Re: My Classix II

      I'm pretty sure the components are in the proper order, I should have included a like to Paul's site for the schematic. I was more concerned with the spacing of the inductors. https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/classix-ii

      As far as the connections go do you use the full length of the leads with hooks at the very end or do you trim them shorter? I guess the idea is that the hooks are easier to de-solder and separate if you need to fix it. Thx

      Mike

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      • #4
        Re: My Classix II

        Matching L/C/Rs, so you can see my top & bot (NOT a Classix).
        Click image for larger version

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        • #5
          Re: My Classix II

          Awesome, thx. Looks like my board is much larger than it needs to be, it is 6"x10", I can shorten it up a bit I think.

          Mike

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          • #6
            Re: My Classix II

            Got the high pass finished and almost done with the low pass. Click image for larger version

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            • #7
              Re: My Classix II

              Originally posted by bigslim3k View Post
              Got the high pass finished and almost done with the low pass. [ATTACH]56122[/ATTACH]
              Put a little gap between the resistors for heat dissipation.

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              • #8
                Re: My Classix II

                Originally posted by Dewmiester View Post
                Put a little gap between the resistors for heat dissipation.
                Copy that, thx, didn't even know that was a consideration.

                Mike

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                • #9
                  Re: My Classix II

                  Originally posted by bigslim3k View Post
                  Copy that, thx, didn't even know that was a consideration.

                  Mike
                  I've done it before, and never have had issues.
                  Later,
                  Wolf
                  "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                  "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
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                  http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: My Classix II

                    Click image for larger version

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                    XO's finished! Made up the speaker leads tonight. Hopefully will get the guts in the cabinets and the baffles on tomorrow and then primer on Monday. I'm really getting tired of waiting and if I'm not careful I'll jump the gun and leave these in primer.

                    Mike

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                    • #11
                      Re: My Classix II

                      Well the XO's weren't finished apparently, the glue didn't hold. I sanded down the mounting board and drilled it for zip ties over the inductors, re-glued and zip tied and she seams pretty sturdy. Got the foam glued on the sides and top, the XO boards glued to the bottom, and the baffles glued on. Man a lot of glueing today.

                      Not sure if this is correct or not but I am leaving the port and binding posts of until I get it painted. Also should I put foam on top of the XO?

                      Mike

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                      • #12
                        Re: My Classix II

                        Originally posted by bigslim3k View Post
                        Well the XO's weren't finished apparently, the glue didn't hold. I sanded down the mounting board and drilled it for zip ties over the inductors, re-glued and zip tied and she seams pretty sturdy. Got the foam glued on the sides and top, the XO boards glued to the bottom, and the baffles glued on. Man a lot of glueing today.

                        Not sure if this is correct or not but I am leaving the port and binding posts of until I get it painted. Also should I put foam on top of the XO?

                        Mike

                        Should be fine with leaving the port and posts for after painting. If the port has a mounting flange with screw holes, you should be OK with that. Leave the foam off the XO...a little heat can build up in a resistor, not enough to be concerned about, but I always leave the XO boards clear of foam or Dacron acoustic damping. Are you using those binding posts that each go into their own hole, or one of those "cup" type, plastic ones? Although they'll be on the back, be careful when you drill through the paint...it could chip or crack if you use something like these:

                        Dayton Audio BPA-38SN HD Binding Post Banana Jack Pair Satin NickelThese heavy-duty binding posts were designed with the audiophile in mind. The high-quality plating process eliminates the possibility of corrosion to maintain the highest possible signal transfer and resist harsh environmental conditions. The binding posts can be used with banana plugs or will accept wire up to 8 gauge. The large diameter knurled head allows for positive finger tight connections. Extra long rear bolt (1-1/2") for mounting in speaker cabinets with walls up to 1" thick (3/8" minimum thickness). To install, simply drill a 1/4" hole and gently tap the binding post in place. The knurled shaft will keep the post from turning and creates an air-tight fit. Overall length is 2-1/4". Sold in color-coded pairs with solder tabs.


                        When PE came out with those, I loved them. Haven't used anything else since. Very high-end look, too bad they're hidden from view being on the rear baffle. Looking good so far. I know about getting anxious to listen before the finish is done. I made a pair of Curt's TriTrix 2-ways a few years back. 3 of my friends wanted to compare their Polk, Infinity and Boston Acoustics small 2-ways to the TriTrix, so I was implored to please hook them up so they could listen next to their speakers. They were done except for the Duratex coating, and I'd been evaluating and taking notes on them in the raw for a few days. They ended up staying in raw MDF for a year before one friend decided to finally get rid of his Polks and buy the TriTrix pair. He was so impressed with the SQ differences/improvements, he ended up buying my Azurites, along with my sub (10" SDVC woofer in 2.3 ft3 ported w/70W plate amp). Here they are in their raw awesomeness, being compared to the Azurites:




                        It is tempting to hook them up before finishing! But I'm sure with your wife and kids, they'll get finished before they stay "raw".


                        John A.
                        "Children play with b-a-l-l-s and sticks, men race, and real men race motorcycles"-John Surtees
                        Emotiva UPA-2, USP-1, ERC-1 CD
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                        Statement Monitors
                        Vintage system: Yamaha CR-420, Technics SL-PG100, Pioneer CT-F8282, Akai X-1800, Morel(T)/Vifa(W) DIY 2-way in .5 ft3
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                        Blogs: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=2003

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                        • #13
                          Re: My Classix II

                          Very nice, where did you get that great wire covering?
                          Andy.

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                          • #14
                            Re: My Classix II

                            Done! [ATTACH]56180[/ATTACH][ATTACH]56181[/ATTACH]

                            I am finally finished. I have had a few face palm moments in my life and DIY is one of them. If I had know about this earlier I could have saved thousands! The project went together for the most part without a hitch (beginners luck), I'm not impressed with the finish though. I used Rust-Oulem universal hammered in black. The texture came out nice but the color is more gray than black which is fine, I like it, but the finish is streaky. I guess thats a product of the rattle can.

                            Now as far as listening impressions go...HOLY CRAP!!! I am literally blown away by how great these sound. Wifey poo is sleeping so I only gave them a little juice but even at low volume the bass is stellar and the high end is not harsh at all. I really can't believe how awesome these are. I am interested to see what they sound like after break in.

                            Thank you Mr. Paul Carmody for this terrific design, it was a pleasure to put together and they sound amazing.
                            DIY Sound Group, thx for the quick turnaround on my order and the exceptional packing.
                            And to everybody here how had an opinion and an idea, thank you.

                            Mike

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                            • #15
                              Re: My Classix II

                              John, I managed to hold off and get then finished before I got to playing them. I am using that style binding post but I predrilled the holes before I started painting. I was surprised to see the that port flange was not drilled for screws. It was a nice tight press fit though so I don't foresee any issues with it. I was planning on a sub or 2 but I really think I'm gonna be good to go with this setup as is.

                              Andy, I used 3/8" Techflex http://www.parts-express.com/techfle...black--082-332, banana plugs http://www.parts-express.com/parts-e...-type--091-330, and 3:1 heat shrink to make pants.

                              Mike

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