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Best gluing technique for adding PVC ports

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  • Best gluing technique for adding PVC ports

    Good morning guys. I know I have seen this topic before but checking to see if any other fresh ideas have surfaced. I have a PVC port tube I want to glue in to my MDF baffle. I will have a double thickness of material at that point. I am thinking I will use a 2-part epoxy for the joining. Comments or suggestions?

  • #2
    Locktite PL Premium 3x

    Bob

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    • #3
      Another vote for PL Premium. It's a great adhesive, just don't get it on your skin, it takes days to peel off.
      Francis

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      • #4
        I've done both the PL and epoxy - project dependent.
        diVine Audio

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        • #5
          I'll try the PL Premium. Thanks

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          • #6
            Spread it out a little too, to give it more surface area to adhere too. Might want to rough up the surface of the PVC as well.

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            • #7
              One vote for hot melt glue. Kinda the neat thing is, if you use a plastic port with a flange mounted from the front w/o screws, you can lay a light bulb (60w) on the opening for a while and it will warm the glue enough that you can wiggle it back out.

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              • #8
                5' epoxy for me

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                • #9
                  Whatever glue you choose, be sure to prep the PVC by wiping it with a good solvent, then let it dry thoroughly. I use mineral spirits.
                  Francis

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                  • #11
                    Frankly, I've only built three pairs at this point in time and I just use whatever Titebond I'm using at the time. As far as I know,,,, they're still all stuck.

                    ​YMMV, Mark

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                    • #12
                      I've been using caulk to install my PVC ports for over 20 years. I use the 100% silicon type, like the kind you'd use on a bathtub. I always double up the thickness of wood around the port to give it a nice mechanical hold, then goop it up with caulk, install the PVC, and wipe away the excess. I've never had any problems.
                      ~Marty

                      Baby Eidolons
                      Sapphos
                      Cables (Post #54)
                      Other speakers (Post #21)
                      Design Thoughts (Posts: 6,10,13,33,35)
                      Boundary Augmentation
                      Dispersion/Interference

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                      • #13
                        Originally posted by Psycoacoustics View Post
                        Frankly, I've only built three pairs at this point in time and I just use whatever Titebond I'm using at the time. As far as I know,,,, they're still all stuck.

                        ​YMMV, Mark
                        I use titebond in MFD with roughened up PVC, epoxy with a loose fit in MDF, and my preference is PVC glue in a PVC flat stock. I screw the PVC assembly to the MDF or hardwood.
                        John H

                        Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

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                        • #14
                          I tend to use 2 part epocyll















































































































































































































                          I tend to use 2 part epoxy.... it is important to degrease it with alcohol or some solvent like was mentioned. But for a truly solid joint, scuffing the shine off of the surface with sandpaper will give the glue some roughness to hold on to.

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                          • #15
                            I tend to use 2 part epoxy.... it is important to degrease it with alcohol or some solvent like was mentioned. But for a truly solid joint, scuffing the shine off of the surface with sandpaper will give the glue some roughness to hold on to.

                            Comment

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