Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Best gluing technique for adding PVC ports

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Psycoacoustics
    replied
    Originally posted by Æ View Post

    Only thing I don't like about PVC, is the color. I kind of prefer ABS since it is usually black to begin with.
    Wolf turned me on to the black ABS and I used it in my recent Prazise build. Totally agree! Black is better from where I sit.

    The only problem is the ABS pipe doesn't seem to be available everywhere. I'm in the western suburbs of Chicago and my local HD doesn't carry it.
    I had to drive a little south to a different county to find it. I think it's a building code thing in that I can't find plastic electric boxes in my area either.

    Mark

    Leave a comment:


  • Æ
    replied
    Originally posted by Mike Baker View Post
    Good morning guys. I know I have seen this topic before but checking to see if any other fresh ideas have surfaced. I have a PVC port tube I want to glue in to my MDF baffle. I will have a double thickness of material at that point. I am thinking I will use a 2-part epoxy for the joining. Comments or suggestions?
    Only thing I don't like about PVC, is the color. I kind of prefer ABS since it is usually black to begin with.

    Leave a comment:


  • Æ
    replied
    Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
    Asleep at the "enter" key?
    Apparently. Either that or some more of the new software goofiness. LOL

    Leave a comment:


  • Æ
    replied
    Two part epoxy for me! Heck, I use epoxy for just about all my gluing needs, plenty of strength and can be sawed, sanded, screwed, painted, whatever. Fills voids well too.

    Leave a comment:


  • emilime75
    replied
    I use epoxy, but I take it a couple of steps further.

    If your baffle is still loose, route a groove on the back side(I usually choose a depth equal to about 1/3 to 1/2 of the baffle thickness) that fits the outside diameter of your tube snugly but not really tight, you want a little room for the glue of your choice. Test fit to make sure the tube fits in the groove, then epoxy it in. Once set, I assemble the box, cut out the center of the vent and use a flush trim bit with the bearing riding on the vent tube. This results in a strong bond with the tube being recessed into the baffle and a considerably larger glue area, both at the (butt) end and along the side. I finish it off with a large round over bit. For this to look really good it's important to cut your vent tube with a miter saw for a clean and square end. On painted baffles this can end up looking seamless.

    Also, if you choose to go this route(get it...route), remember to compensate your vent tube length for the depth of the recess.

    Leave a comment:


  • Chris Roemer
    replied
    Asleep at the "enter" key?

    Leave a comment:


  • jonpike
    replied
    I tend to use 2 part epoxy.... it is important to degrease it with alcohol or some solvent like was mentioned. But for a truly solid joint, scuffing the shine off of the surface with sandpaper will give the glue some roughness to hold on to.

    Leave a comment:


  • jonpike
    replied
    I tend to use 2 part epocyll















































































































































































































    I tend to use 2 part epoxy.... it is important to degrease it with alcohol or some solvent like was mentioned. But for a truly solid joint, scuffing the shine off of the surface with sandpaper will give the glue some roughness to hold on to.

    Leave a comment:


  • jhollander
    replied
    Originally posted by Psycoacoustics View Post
    Frankly, I've only built three pairs at this point in time and I just use whatever Titebond I'm using at the time. As far as I know,,,, they're still all stuck.

    ​YMMV, Mark
    I use titebond in MFD with roughened up PVC, epoxy with a loose fit in MDF, and my preference is PVC glue in a PVC flat stock. I screw the PVC assembly to the MDF or hardwood.

    Leave a comment:


  • ReissM
    replied
    I've been using caulk to install my PVC ports for over 20 years. I use the 100% silicon type, like the kind you'd use on a bathtub. I always double up the thickness of wood around the port to give it a nice mechanical hold, then goop it up with caulk, install the PVC, and wipe away the excess. I've never had any problems.

    Leave a comment:


  • Psycoacoustics
    replied
    Frankly, I've only built three pairs at this point in time and I just use whatever Titebond I'm using at the time. As far as I know,,,, they're still all stuck.

    ​YMMV, Mark

    Leave a comment:


  • tyger23
    replied
    Gorilla glue. The foaming kind.

    Leave a comment:


  • fpitas
    replied
    Whatever glue you choose, be sure to prep the PVC by wiping it with a good solvent, then let it dry thoroughly. I use mineral spirits.

    Leave a comment:


  • Chris Roemer
    replied
    5' epoxy for me

    Leave a comment:


  • philthien
    replied
    One vote for hot melt glue. Kinda the neat thing is, if you use a plastic port with a flange mounted from the front w/o screws, you can lay a light bulb (60w) on the opening for a while and it will warm the glue enough that you can wiggle it back out.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X