Peerless 830657 for <$6a piece!

[JavadS]

I'll vouch for the XT25, can get very loud and stays clean for a dole type tweeter. Javad

[donradick]

I'll vouch for the XT25, can get very loud and stays clean for a dole type tweeter. Javad

Thanks Javad!

[IAHphotog]

So based on the data that's been collected (thanks!), would these work in a 2 way in-wall type speaker? The tweeter and woofer would be on an MDF baffle almost flush with the wall. Internally there would just be insulation/rock wool. Any thoughts?

[donradick]

So based on the data that's been collected (thanks!), would these work in a 2 way in-wall type speaker? The tweeter and woofer would be on an MDF baffle almost flush with the wall. Internally there would just be insulation/rock wool. Any thoughts?

These should work fine for in-wall surrounds. You will probably want to high pass them at 80 Hz for that use.

[IAHphotog]

I bought some cheapo xovers to x them at 3khz with a Vifa TC9fd18-08 handling the highs. I'll limit them to 80hz on the low side. Thanks!

[dustinbagby]

Are you guys sure the ones labeled FSBA25065-0801 are the 830657? They are much more sinilar in appearance, IMO, to the SDS-160F25PR01-08. The motor on the FSBA labeled drivers have the smaller in diameter/deeper magnet like the SDS-160F25PR01-08, where the 830657s have the shallower, larger in diameter magnet.

Am I crazy?

Here is a pic of a pair of the FSBA labeled drivers I have on hand. Definitely a different motor structure than the 830657.

[donradick]

Are you guys sure the ones labeled FSBA25065-0801 are the 830657? They are much more sinilar in appearance, IMO, to the SDS-160F25PR01-08. The motor on the FSBA labeled drivers have the smaller in diameter/deeper magnet like the SDS-160F25PR01-08, where the 830657s have the shallower, larger in diameter magnet.

Am I crazy?

Here is a pic of a pair of the FSBA labeled drivers I have on hand. Definitely a different motor structure than the 830657.

You may very well be right, but XMAX for the 160 is 6 mm, and the XMAX for these appears to be 3.5 mm.
I'm thinking this was a custom run of the 830657 and the consistency was not good enough for the application.
I (of course) do not have access to Klippel, so I'm estimating XMAX based on the given parameters for coil length and gap height.

[donradick]

So, time to get serious about this project - I got 2 sheets of 4x8 3/4" plywood from Home Depot, and finalized (maybe) the box model.

Unibox driver parameters:
I calculated xmax at 3.5mm (which matched the published xmax for 830657) and added 10% which gave me 3.85mm

Due the limited models in Unibox, I modeled 2 x 2 series / parallel, and will add the equivalent volume for 6x drivers.
With a fairly small box and fairly low tuning, driver excursion limits should be acceptable.
Xmax is exceeded below 35 Hz, but that's at well over 104 dB without considering the output of 2 more drivers and boundary
reinforcement.

I'm pretty sure this is what I'm going to build. No reason to tune higher, and a larger box creates xmax problems.

[donradick]

I've been plugging away at this project, and now have 2 boxes built - about 9.5W x 15.5D x 44.5H with nice 3/4 inch rounded sides on the baffle.
I want to do a seamless 3/4 veneer wrap from left - baffle - right and I don't want to mess up the veneering.
The piece(s) of veneer for this is about 46" x 46", so it's a bit awkward to manipulate. Used some veneer softener on it, so it's pretty pliable.

As far as I can tell I will need to slather on Heat Lock (probably 2 coats) on the veneer and box, position the box on it's back, then
put the veneer centered on the baffle hanging down on each side. Iron the veneer on the baffle, which will lock it in place, but
then what?

I'm thinking maybe iron a little on each side while it is vertical to get the veneer attached, then rotate the box on one side and completely iron the top side down,
then rotate 180 degrees onto the other side and iron it down completely.

Sound like a plan?
I really can't figure out any other way to do this. As always, any advice welcome.

[Millstonemike]

I've been plugging away at this project, and now have 2 boxes built - about 9.5W x 15.5D x 44.5H with nice 3/4 inch rounded sides on the baffle.
I want to do a seamless 3/4 veneer wrap from left - baffle - right and I don't want to mess up the veneering.
The piece(s) of veneer for this is about 46" x 46", so it's a bit awkward to manipulate. Used some veneer softener on it, so it's pretty pliable.

As far as I can tell I will need to slather on Heat Lock (probably 2 coats) on the veneer and box, position the box on it's back, then
put the veneer centered on the baffle hanging down on each side. Iron the veneer on the baffle, which will lock it in place, but
then what?

I'm thinking maybe iron a little on each side while it is vertical to get the veneer attached, then rotate the box on one side and completely iron the top side down,
then rotate 180 degrees onto the other side and iron it down completely.

Sound like a plan?
I really can't figure out any other way to do this. As always, any advice welcome.

After the baffle is veneered you could put the box on one side with the veneer on other side hanging over the edge of a table/workbench. Then you work the side that's up until finished.Then flip the box to do the other side.

[donradick]

After the baffle is veneered you could put the box on one side with the veneer on other side hanging over the edge of a table/workbench. Then you work the side that's up until finished.Then flip the box to do the other side.

Jeez, that's just SO obvious. thanks Mike!

[donradick]

Couple of pics of the box build process.

the baffle is one inch BB, all the rest is Home Depot 3/4 inch "cabinet grade"
Decided to challenge myself with mostly mitered joints.

Decided that I better have a one inch baffle, so that meant gluing up 2 1/2 inch pieces of BB








Since my Porter Cable biscuit joiner can't pivot to a 135 degree registration, I had to figure out how to accurately
cut a biscuit slot in a mitered board. so I built a 45 degree jig







This worked VERY well, the sandpaper held the board securely side to side, and
the weight of the board pressed into the joiner face for a very precise registration.





you can see the miters very clearly in this shot of a test fit for one side and the baffle.



Gluing up one side to the baffle - used the braces to ensure 90 degrees, and used some wax paper
so I could remove them later. I used Gorilla Glue with the mitered and biscuit(ed) joints - and it held
very securely.

[donradick]

and finally the gluing up the whole box..
I figured that I needed strap clamps, and boy, was that right.



Veneering was a real challenge - I wanted to do a 3/4 wrap - everything except the back in one piece.
I mixed up some homemade veneer softener and "slopped" in on the sheet.
When I came back to it a few days later, results were not what I expected.






Luckily, it was actually pretty pliable, and glued on nicely

[tomzarbo]

Lookin' good Don!

[Kevin K.]

Yes, very nice work Don! And that's a nifty solution for the miter biscuits! Keep up the great work.