Peerless 830657 for <$6a piece!

[donradick]

Guys, I've heard that there is continued interest in building these.
The original crossover I posted in this thread sounds fine, but I worked quite a bit to refine the rolloff of the upper MTM mid-woofers, and
finally managed to drop the breakup by using a Zobel. This crossover measures much flatter, and should sound a bit cleaner.
Don't get me wrong, the original crossover is fine if you already have the parts.
PM me if you have questions or post on this thread.

[Pepper]

My drivers were labeled: FSBA25065-0801

I found this. https://www.parts-express.com/peerle...aker--264-1146

I thought it might interest you, and few other guys who frequently reads this topic, so I joined this forum to tell you about my "discovery".
It says the xmax of this woofer is 6mm, so it's a little bit more than 830657's 3.5mm ;)

Regards

[donradick]

I found this. https://www.parts-express.com/peerle...aker--264-1146

I thought it might interest you, and few other guys who frequently reads this topic, so I joined this forum to tell you about my "discovery".
It says the xmax of this woofer is 6mm, so it's a little bit more than 830657's 3.5mm ;)

Regards

Interesting - thanks for the link.
The 2 drivers T/S parameters are remarkably similar, yet the sds-160F25 has much better xmax. Strange.

[norhafyzol]

Hi.

Can you share the sketchup file? if you don't mind.

Thanks.
Zol..

[donradick]

Hi.

Can you share the sketchup file? if you don't mind.

Thanks.
Zol..

Here you go.
It's my typical "close enough to start cutting wood".
Forget about the "1/32" dimensions on the baffle. Add "1/32" and only use "1/16" dimensions.

Slot port is not present in the Sketchup model. Details are in this thread.

OOPS, The forum will not let me attach a .SKP file.
PM me with your email address and I'll get it to you.

[thekorvers]

Here you go.
It's my typical "close enough to start cutting wood".
Forget about the "1/32" dimensions on the baffle. Add "1/32" and only use "1/16" dimensions.

Slot port is not present in the Sketchup model. Details are in this thread.

OOPS, The forum will not let me attach a .SKP file.
PM me with your email address and I'll get it to you.

Give the file a different extension like .zzz or something else that is accepted and change it back when using it.

[donradick]

Maybe this will help. Obviously flawed and incomplete.
rename file extension to ".skp"

radical-towers-PBO-66-baffle.doc

[norhafyzol]

Thanks man.

It really help.
I will open build thread when i start the build.
Now collecting info and material..

[DIYNut42]

Don,

I have a pair of these about 75% of the way completed, and I had a few quick questions if you don't mind.

I've read through the build thread, and noticed something about the width of the port. Using 3/4" material, and with the outer width dimension being 9.5", that gives an 8" inner dim to work with. Your comment about the port says you made it 7 7/8" wide. Did you get some 1/8" material and line one side wall of the port to bring it to that dimension?

For stuffing/wall treatment... I have the top and side walls of the front woofer area lined with some dense 1/2" carpet foam to catch reflections, and the entire back wall lined with R-13 insulation with plans to stuff some poly-fill over the R-13 (only in the back half of the enclosure). My question is, if you were to hazard a guess, how many pounds of poly stuffing do you feel would be equal to your amount of denim stuffing?

My last question is about the woofer wiring. I looks like from the XO, all six woofers are wired in series parallel (with the 6mH coil between the MTM and bottom four), and ending up with a 5.3 Ohm impedance. Is this correct?

[donradick]

Don,

I have a pair of these about 75% of the way completed, and I had a few quick questions if you don't mind.

I've read through the build thread, and noticed something about the width of the port. Using 3/4" material, and with the outer width dimension being 9.5", that gives an 8" inner dim to work with. Your comment about the port says you made it 7 7/8" wide. Did you get some 1/8" material and line one side wall of the port to bring it to that dimension?

For stuffing/wall treatment... I have the top and side walls of the front woofer area lined with some dense 1/2" carpet foam to catch reflections, and the entire back wall lined with R-13 insulation with plans to stuff some poly-fill over the R-13 (only in the back half of the enclosure). My question is, if you were to hazard a guess, how many pounds of poly stuffing do you feel would be equal to your amount of denim stuffing?

My last question is about the woofer wiring. I looks like from the XO, all six woofers are wired in series parallel (with the 6mH coil between the MTM and bottom four), and ending up with a 5.3 Ohm impedance. Is this correct?

Turns out the slot port width is fairly insensitive to variations. Slot port tuning is very sensitive to height of the slot.
I usually do not cut dados for my slot ports, I cut 1/4 inch BB to an exact height, and glue one in each side for the
slot port "cover" to sit on. So don't sweat the exact width, worry about the height.

My walls were covered with Dow 703 compressed fiberglass. Add poly until it's pretty full, but not packed.
I packed in more filling towards the back of the box, and left some space open in the front so the woofers
had a clear path to the slot port on the bottom. I would (very roughly) guess about 1.5 - 2.0 pounds poly
per speaker, but I'd really gauge filling based more on density than weight. Fill it up, but do not compress
it tightly.

I actually ran a LIMP on all six woofers in the box wired series / parallel and got 5.9 ohm minimum.
Add to that R value the DCR of the laminate coil to get the final minimum impedance.

Hope this helps! You are in for a treat.....
BTW, where are your build pics?

[DIYNut42]

Turns out the slot port width is fairly insensitive to variations. Slot port tuning is very sensitive to height of the slot.
I usually do not cut dados for my slot ports, I cut 1/4 inch BB to an exact height, and glue one in each side for the
slot port "cover" to sit on. So don't sweat the exact width, worry about the height.

My walls were covered with Dow 703 compressed fiberglass. Add poly until it's pretty full, but not packed.
I packed in more filling towards the back of the box, and left some space open in the front so the woofers
had a clear path to the slot port on the bottom. I would (very roughly) guess about 1.5 - 2.0 pounds poly
per speaker, but I'd really gauge filling based more on density than weight. Fill it up, but do not compress
it tightly.

I actually ran a LIMP on all six woofers in the box wired series / parallel and got 5.9 ohm minimum.
Add to that R value the DCR of the laminate coil to get the final minimum impedance.

Hope this helps! You are in for a treat.....
BTW, where are your build pics?

This helps a ton. Thanks for your time, Don!

Unfortunately, I haven't taken any pics, but I will be sure and snap a few before and after they're all finished up. I've switched gears over the past few years, and started a small woodworking business. Building cabinets for my past speakers made me realize how much I enjoyed the woodworking aspect of the hobby, and it kind of took off from there. I still drop in to the forum now and then, and came across this thread last year. Decided to snatch up a box of these Peerless to start rebuilding my HT/Music system. Between client builds, and projects for my girlfriend and I, I haven't had a lot of time to work on them, or start an actual build thread. :-/

[Pepper]

Well, I finaly managed to finish mine pair of loudspeakers. It's been over 18 months since I ordered my pack of new, shiny and very cheap Peerless 830657 drivers from ebay. It took them a month to arrive to Poland, but it was worth waiting. By the time I bought them, I had no idea what loudspeakers I would build. I started to search for a project, or a company that uses 830657 drivers in their speakers. I found that a lithuanian company Audiosolutions builds a line of speakers that use Peerless drivers and I was pretty sure that I would biuld something similar to their Overture O205F... But then I found this thread! SIX woofers instead of four? It's insane, wife's gonna kill me! Even four woofers in single loudspeaker is more than she could probably handle. I decided, I'll build them. Even if this means homelesness...

After arriving to Poland I found out, that these were really SDS-160F25PR01, not 830657. Took the measurements in Speaker Workshop. Did the burn in. Then I decided to modify the drivers a bit, by adding a magnet at the back of each unit. Bought a pack of 15 magnets 72mm dia by 15mm height (around 15 bucks for all), and glued them on the back of each speaker. It is supposed to focus magnetic field inside the speaker's magnetic gap and change its parameters. Did the measurements again. Fs went down averagely 3Hz. Qts dropped from .559 (avg) to .436 whitch is a little better for BR enclosure.

The cabinet material was cut to desired dimensions by a woodworking company I found online. They also cut the front speaker holes. I used 25mm MDF for back and 38MDF for front. Enclosure volume is about 90l. All the gluing and milling edges, veneering, sanding was on me. It was my first woodwork, so it took me some time to build them, but during that time I learned a lot.

Back and sides are veneered using two different wood colors (mahogany and balsa), then covered with epoxy resin, front and stand is covered with imitation leather. BR tunnel pretty much the same, as Mr. Don mentioned earier in the thread. I added a very little cabinet dampening on the back (4cm polymer wool and 1cm felt with 2mm bitumen layer material glued on it), and glued a thin 4mm plywood on the internal sides, since Xmax of SDS-160F25PR01 is a lot better than 830657. All of the internal edges are extra sealed by a marine grade glue Sikaflex 291.

Tweeter is Seas Prestige H1147-06 27TBC/G tweeter. Crossed at 2200Hz using 3rd order filter and added L-pad to dampen it about 3dB. The "lower" part of XO is the same as Mr. Don posted, except 5.6mH coil, whitch is an air cored coil (.89ohm). I used mostly Mundorf capacitors and coils.

I use 2x200W AB Class DIY amplifier (apexaudio SR-200 design) with ak4495seq DAC to power them and I really enjoy listening this system. The sound is clear, but very powerful. I am satisfied and even a little proud of myself that I managed to finish this project.

Thanks to Mr. Donradick and Mr. PassingInterest, whitch ispired me a lot!

[BOBinGA]

Wow! Those are beautiful. Amazing work for a first time wood worker.

[a4eaudio]

Pepper, could you comment on how you created the light lines between the wood veneer? I'm about to try something almost exactly like what you did.

[thekorvers]

Well, I finaly managed to finish mine pair of loudspeakers. ............................ I am satisfied and even a little proud of myself that I managed to finish this project.

Wow, beautiful! I think you can be more than a little proud of what you built here. Maybe like a whole lot of proud!