Another Encore...

[tomzarbo]

Joe, sorry I missed your question.
I drew a curve on a piece of 1/2"mdf, cut it on the band saw, sanded until a piece of 1/8"HDR conformed to it perfectly, then I used that piece as a template. I used it to make a master profile from which I made all the other tops, bottoms, and braces from. Now each piece is exactly the same on either side.
TomZ

[tomzarbo]

I didn't explain that very well I don't think... I don't do well on an iPad...
What I did was I used a piece of 1/2" MDF to make a suitable curve with... I made sure the 1/8" HDF could 'conform' to it. Then I took that piece of 1/2" MDF curve and placed it on another piece of MDF and traced the line, then I flipped it over and drew the other line. Then I cut just outside the curve on the bandsaw, then I screwed the first piece of MDF to what I just cut and used it as a template for the bearing to ride against. Then I flipped the piece to the other side and trimmed it with the router on the other side as well.

So I now have one template of the correct size and with a matching curve on either side so no matter how I cut the remaining boards, they will be mirror images with the same curve.

TomZ

[joeybutts]

Copy that. Thanks! Keep rollin'....

[tomzarbo]

I actually had this template from my previous pair of pairs, so I just dug right in this time... much easier. I have a half dozen templates littering my basement that I don't want to chuck just in case I make something similar in the future.

TomZ

[tomzarbo]

An update on this second set of Encores is overdue. Go easy on me though, I've been busy during the past year... Take a peek at the Project Gallery if you don't believe me.

I've got the veneer on all four cabinets. It's Lacewood veneer, and it's a bit fussy. It's got little 'layers' to it that just want to lift up and catch on anything that touches it. Think compressed pinecone barely glued together and you're not far off. It's beautiful, though, and it does that light-shifting thing when you change viewing angles.

This is with only 3-4 coats of spray-on poly sprayed in the garage. Brought them into the basement once they set up a bit as it's damp outside. I'll get these super-shiny with rub-on poly, but since the veneer is so darned 'grabby,' I figured I'd better seal it up with spray-on before I start sliding a rag over them.

I tried to match up the veneer pattern side-top-side as best I could. The rear taper makes it impossible to get perfect, but it's decent looking.

One set (destined for a friend) has four holes drilled in the back for four nut inserts. I plan on epoxying them in place, turning them in by hand with a drill press setup like I've read many of you guys do. Love those tips... these things love to go in crooked otherwise.

My friend's will get a straight black baffle, where ours is getting a black leather covered baffle. I've got some supple, thin leather that will make these things really stand out with their subtlety. I can't help it, I like wood grain and black as a color combination. I like vanilla ice cream too... guess I'm boring! I've been wanting to dabble with leather for quite awhile, and I think this is the right project to give it a try. The leather looks thick in the pic, but it's really thin and very flexible and stretchable as well. I don't think I'll have any trouble getting this to bend over rounded corners and sitting nicely in driver recesses. I've been watching YouTube videos on how to work with it and I think I can manage okay. I'll practice a bit first of course. I'm looking forward to trying a new medium. Hopefully, I'll have that nice leathery smell for a long time as well.

Nothing too exciting, just a little fun for a rainy Saturday.

Thanks for looking,
TomZ


TomZ

[scottvalentin]

Looking really good Tom - that Lacewood is really unique.

[tomzarbo]

Sheesh!

[tomzarbo]

Double post...

[philthien]

Well the veneer may be tricky but that sure is gorgeous stuff.

Looking forward to the leather baffles.

[Psycoacoustics]

Hey Tom, can you show us how you flushed trimmed the hdf?

Thanks, Mark

[tomzarbo]

Thanks guys. I don't even think the Lacewood veneer was all that super-expensive. I was fortunate in that one 4x8 sheet of it basically was able to do both pairs with only one bigger sized 20" x 20" scratch piece left over.

Mark,
I trimmed things the easy way... I just used my saber saw to get close, within 1/8" or slightly less. Then I used a flush cut router bit of larger size... 1/2" or 5/8" -- can't remember to trim the front, top and bottom... basically everything but the back -- because of the angle back there.

To trim the side material where it meets the front -- router rests on the side and bit touches the front baffle area... there is no angle there to worry about.

To trim the side material where it meets the top/bottom -- same thing... router rests on side and bit touches the top/bottom... A smidge tricky since the surface is curved and the router base does not sit flat. You basically use the router like a hand tool and keep things smooth and level best as you can for this part.

To trim the side material where it meets the back -- I rough-trimmed it with the jig saw with the same angle dialed in, then used the belt sander to get the remaining material flush to the back.

I know, I know... it's Hackery by George!!! Yeah, I agree, but I've gotten really good at belt sanding over the years and I have no problem doing this. After I'm 95% there with the belt sander, I use a huge sanding block, around 18" x 18" or so covered with three strips of 6" coarse belt sander material (really strong and tough) glued and stapled on the ends to a flat board. After rubbing the backs with this for a few minutes, it's flat as can be. You can tell if there are any dips remaining because the sawdust will pool there. In a few minutes the backs were flat and no issues.

Alternatively, you could use a tool like this which I've used as well. I made it in a few hours and it works nicely.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pbjf_koPC5Y&t=2s

Belt sanding is a good way to get into trouble quickly... I admit, but once you get the hang of it and know the risks, things can come out pretty nice. Think of it as a poor man's CNC!

TomZ

[tomzarbo]

(test)

[Psycoacoustics]

Thanks guys. I don't even think the Lacewood veneer was all that super-expensive. I was fortunate in that one 4x8 sheet of it basically was able to do both pairs with only one bigger sized 20" x 20" scratch piece left over.

Mark,
I trimmed things the easy way... I just used my saber saw to get close, within 1/8" or slightly less. Then I used a flush cut router bit of larger size... 1/2" or 5/8" -- can't remember to trim the front, top and bottom... basically everything but the back -- because of the angle back there.

To trim the side material where it meets the front -- router rests on the side and bit touches the front baffle area... there is no angle there to worry about.

To trim the side material where it meets the top/bottom -- same thing... router rests on side and bit touches the top/bottom... A smidge tricky since the surface is curved and the router base does not sit flat. You basically use the router like a hand tool and keep things smooth and level best as you can for this part.

To trim the side material where it meets the back -- I rough-trimmed it with the jig saw with the same angle dialed in, then used the belt sander to get the remaining material flush to the back.

I know, I know... it's Hackery by George!!! Yeah, I agree, but I've gotten really good at belt sanding over the years and I have no problem doing this. After I'm 95% there with the belt sander, I use a huge sanding block, around 18" x 18" or so covered with three strips of 6" coarse belt sander material (really strong and tough) glued and stapled on the ends to a flat board. After rubbing the backs with this for a few minutes, it's flat as can be. You can tell if there are any dips remaining because the sawdust will pool there. In a few minutes the backs were flat and no issues.

Alternatively, you could use a tool like this which I've used as well. I made it in a few hours and it works nicely.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pbjf_koPC5Y&t=2s

Belt sanding is a good way to get into trouble quickly... I admit, but once you get the hang of it and know the risks, things can come out pretty nice. Think of it as a poor man's CNC!

TomZ

Thank you sir! Mark

[tom_s]

Leather baffles - love it! Lacewood veneer - love it! That'll be a beautiful combo.

[tomzarbo]

Leather baffles - love it! Lacewood veneer - love it! That'll be a beautiful combo.

Thanks! I hope so.

TomZ