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[r-carpenter]

You don't want to lacquer over oil. Compatibility issues.

[Kevin K.]

You don't want to lacquer over oil. Compatibility issues.

A coat (or two) of Zinsser Seal Coat between the oil and lacquer wouldn't prevent the compatibility issues? Or would there be a compatibility problem between the tung oil and Zinsser?

[tomzarbo]

Thanks guys.

Yea, lots of block sanding Tom. I used a straight angle die grinder with this bit http://www.veneersupplies.com/produc...outer-Bit.html to rough cut the veneer by hand and then finished the rest with the sanding block. Did you ever pick up one of these cutters Tom? Worth their weight in gold if you ask me.

I've done a little experimenting with the Danish oil Mike but didn't try thinning it, might give that a whirl on some scraps to see how it looks. Thanks.

I have not yet. Looks like I should. I still have just a bit of room in my router bit cabinet.

TomZ

[r-carpenter]

A coat (or two) of Zinsser Seal Coat between the oil and lacquer wouldn't prevent the compatibility issues? Or would there be a compatibility problem between the tung oil and Zinsser?

Zinseser seal is probably shellac. Shellac is and was widely used as a sealer. It builds up quick and has a nice hew. Spray additives have been prohibited for shellac because of highly cancerogenous nature. So, nice stuff that's hard to spray. But... (always a little opsy) depending on the lacquer, you can't really use it as a sealer. Most of the American furniture of 1940th to late 1960s were finished exactly this way. Shellac as a sealer and lacquer topcoat. If you ever are in an antique store and see alligatored finish on the American ArtDeco chest of drawers or a bedroom set, that's the result.
Shellac can be used as a sealer prior to oil. Lacquers have their own sealers that are also not compatible with oil.
I would suggest, if you already applied oil finish, stick with it. Having a bit of darkening over time is not a big deal but having your finish deteriorating is.
BTW, it's not the wood that darkens over time. It's the oil itself that oxidizes. You would slow the process by applying different finish over it, albiet at a high risk of finish failure.

[r-carpenter]

yeah, it is shellac. http://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/854.pdf

[Sydney]

... Most of the American furniture of 1940th to late 1960s were finished exactly this way. ...

My first wood shop projects ( Chicago 1967 ) were finished with Shellac

http://archives.chicagotribune.com/1967/05/07/page/515/article/shellac-ages-old-still-a-top-paint-industry-product

[r-carpenter]

My first wood shop projects ( Chicago 1967 ) were finished with Shellac

http://archives.chicagotribune.com/1967/05/07/page/515/article/shellac-ages-old-still-a-top-paint-industry-product

Shellac is a great looking finish. French-polished shellac is by far one of the most spectacular ways to finish a well crafted piece of furniture if high gloss is needed.

[Millstonemike]

My first wood shop projects ( Chicago 1967 ) were finished with Shellac

http://archives.chicagotribune.com/1967/05/07/page/515/article/shellac-ages-old-still-a-top-paint-industry-product

Just a few years later ... we're finishing our projects in woodshop with shellac. But my bench neighbor has mistaken the brush cleaning can for the shellac. Must have been 1/3 shellac to 2/3 thinner. Of course, his project looked the best.

[Kevin K.]

Nothing has been applied to the raw veneer yet so all finish options are still on the table. I have applied Wonderfil grain filler to the baffles and will probably pick up some for the Sapele tomorrow. Since the Tung oil is probably not going to be the finish of choice, I could look at filling the grain with a darker color to add some depth and contrast to the Sapele.

In other words, I am definitely looking for opinions on how to finish these. There's a lot of work tied up in these so far and the last thing I want is a finish failure due to my inexperience. I like the shellac on the baffle scraps, just concerned about how difficult the French Polish technique would be working around all of the driver holes. Thanks for all of your input.

Unfinished Karelian Birch on the left and Zinsser clear shellac on the right. Not French polished, just wiped on.

[jhollander]

Kevin you have lots of choices but I'd do test pieces to see what you like. I did a Sapele coffee table with BLO, wonderfil, and poly, but also like BLO, Sealer, Lacquer. You do not have to French polish Shellac you can buff it like almost like lacquer. I prefer the look of sprayed lacquer finish over sprayed Shellac. I'd fear the use of colored grain filler as it could dampen the gold sheen/ reflection of the Sapele.

[Kevin K.]

Kevin you have lots of choices but I'd do test pieces to see what you like. I did a Sapele coffee table with BLO, wonderfil, and poly, but also like BLO, Sealer, Lacquer. You do not have to French polish Shellac you can buff it like almost like lacquer. I prefer the look of sprayed lacquer finish over sprayed Shellac. I'd fear the use of colored grain filler as it could dampen the gold sheen/ reflection of the Sapele.

Hey John, thanks for your input. There are lots of test pieces in the works, just gonna have to decide which way to go. I'm comfortable spraying lacquer when the weather conditions allow down here and it's about perfect right now. Hadn't thought about the sheen/reflection aspect, your probably right. The Sapele veneer I purchased is really not that bad. It may not even require a filler.

[Derekj]

Nearing the home stretch now. Veneer on one of the cabinets, no finish yet. Hope to apply veneer on the other this weekend and then all that will leave is finish work, and a lot of it I might ad. Still have another week or so to play with some different finishes. Tried some Tung oil on a piece of the Sapele scrap, really liked how it brought it to life. Tried Roman's suggestion and applied Shellac on a piece of scrap from the baffles, really liked that also. I suck at French Polishing so I may have to settle on Lacquer. Anyhow, here are some pics:
The last photo is a trick I learned from Tom. Get down on the floor to take the picture, it makes them look huge. This also kind of added the roller coaster effect to it.

That looks amazing Kevin! Can't wait to see them finished and drivers installed.

[jhollander]

My thought was BLO, clear filer on the Sapele, sand, BLO, 1 week dry, coat of seal coat wash, 3M pad, seal coat wash, 3M pad, Lacquer first coat, 3M pad, Lacquer final coat. Assuming you can lay down a decent final coat I'd not rub out.

You choice but something that big I'd go with a semi gloss. Gloss would give better clarity, but the reflectivity can wash out some details. You could always PM Bob Barkto, he could give you a few more options.

[Kevin K.]

That looks amazing Kevin! Can't wait to see them finished and drivers installed.

Thanks Derek, me either (the can't wait part). This build seems like it has been going on forever to me and to be honest, I'm exhausted. Really looking forward to these being completed and then it's gonna be a whole lot of sit back, relax, and enjoy.

[Kevin K.]

My thought was BLO, clear filer on the Sapele, sand, BLO, 1 week dry, coat of seal coat wash, 3M pad, seal coat wash, 3M pad, Lacquer first coat, 3M pad, Lacquer final coat. Assuming you can lay down a decent final coat I'd not rub out.

You choice but something that big I'd go with a semi gloss. Gloss would give better clarity, but the reflectivity can wash out some details. You could always PM Bob Barkto, he could give you a few more options.

I have enough time to completely test your suggestion on some scraps before having to start on the enclosures and I like the sound of it. Will try to reach Bob by PM to see what other options he might suggest as well. Appreciate your help John.