Next Project: Arc 40 CBT Array

[Kevin K.]

Various "ideas":
Strap clamps / Flex strap pieces / Clamp culls that provide a perpendicular face for standard clamps to work against.

Pilot holes could be set on the side piece to screw/pull into the frame while glue sets.
Or the line could be a brad nail guide.
( FWIW I've used numerous urethane based glues. To a certain degree expansion can be controlled. )

Will be using a clamp cull towards the top rear, no choice. Considered the straps but was concerned about damaging the veneer on the baffles, maybe a piece of foam would protect it? Will be using pilot holes to screw the panel to the additional blocks mentioned. Didn't feel screws could be shot into the edges of the 1/2" MDF without splitting it, this was the reason for the additional blocks.

What do you think of using the urethane glue on the edge with the arrows and regular titebond everywhere else? The urethane would be able to expand left and right and shouldn't cause bulging since it would have a place to escape.

[Sydney]

Various "ideas":
Strap clamps / Flex strap pieces / Clamp culls that provide a perpendicular face for standard clamps to work against.

Pilot holes could be set on the side piece to screw/pull into the frame while glue sets.
Or the line could be a brad nail guide.
( FWIW I've used numerous urethane based glues. To a certain degree expansion can be controlled. )

[Kevin K.]

Have you ruled out the various means of clamping irregular shapes?
Is it possible to transfer the joint lines to the remaining side piece?

I played around with several different clamping methods but didn't find any I felt super confident in. I'm certainly open to suggestions.

Yes, the joint line could be transferred to the remaining side piece, what did you have in mind?

[Navy Guy]

Need some advise here fellas. Reached the point where the enclosures are ready to be closed up. When I attach the last panel it has to seal against the edge with the arrows, otherwise the enclosure leaks. Clamping the last panel isn't going to work so I am adding blocks where I can and will shoot screws to hold it until the glue cures. Once the panel is secured, it is blind and I wont be able to see if it mated well to that edge. Thinking gorilla glue since it expands would be the best bet but want to see if you guys agree or suggest something else. Thanks.

You might try something thick like PL Premium adhesive. I've heard Gorilla Glue can expand enough to push things around sometimes, but I have no experience using either, so take this with a grain of salt.

[Sydney]

Have you ruled out the various means of clamping irregular shapes?
Is it possible to transfer the joint lines to the remaining side piece?

[Kevin K.]

Need some advise here fellas. Reached the point where the enclosures are ready to be closed up. When I attach the last panel it has to seal against the edge with the arrows, otherwise the enclosure leaks. Clamping the last panel isn't going to work so I am adding blocks where I can and will shoot screws to hold it until the glue cures. Once the panel is secured, it is blind and I wont be able to see if it mated well to that edge. Thinking gorilla glue since it expands would be the best bet but want to see if you guys agree or suggest something else. Thanks.

[Kevin K.]

Do you have some sort of dust collection set up on the CNC?

At work we typically cut vacuum-formed plastic on the machines which only generates plastic pellets, not near as messy. For MDF, I would normally be holding the end of a shop vac tube close to the cuts and it catches most of the dust, but holding the camera and the shop vac tube for the video would have been tough so I just let it make the mdf rooster tails in this instance.

[Derekj]

And here is a video of the machine cutting the panels. Thought some of you might like to see her in action, it's pretty cool. I'm only using 4 out of the 5 axis's available in these cuts. She is really something to see when using all 5 axis's. Hope this link works.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fjq2eov8zx...Thing.mp4?dl=0

Do you have some sort of dust collection set up on the CNC?

[ani_101]

Thanks Kevin, now that you mention it, I did remember reading about the band saw. It looks very neat on the panels....

Hmm, let's see what else can you do with a 5axis CNC router, after the boxes are done....

[Kevin K.]

what did you use for the damping pads and how did you cut the angles on those?

Here's the link to the damping: http://www.parts-express.com/sonic-b...-x-24--260-530

And earlier in the thread I discussed cutting the angles with a band saw, works great! http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...82#post1302682


Can we borrow your cnc???

Are you gonna bring it back when you're done with it?

[Kevin K.]

I gotta ask-
Are you planning woofers for all of that rear-volume you have there? Seems to me a pair of 8" subs and a plate amp might fit back there.
Later,
Wolf

It crossed my mind early on Ben and it is a lot of wasted space, but necessary for stability. For now the plan is separate subs, probably 15's, and two of them. This will give me the ability to find the best room placement for em.

[ani_101]

what did you use for the damping pads and how did you cut the angles on those? Can we borrow your cnc???

[Wolf]

I gotta ask-
Are you planning woofers for all of that rear-volume you have there? Seems to me a pair of 8" subs and a plate amp might fit back there.
Later,
Wolf

[Navy Guy]

Denim insulation works as well or better, is typically cheaper, and can be glued in place so it's what I typically go for. If you have the Acousta-Stuff already, don't worry about changing.

[Kevin K.]

These aren't going to be ported, are they? If not, I'd also recommend some denim insulation in the cab as well to help further reduce the back wave/standing waves.

No, they are sealed Kerry. I already purchased 3 bags of Acousta-Stuf for the project. Do you think the denim works better or is it a price thing?