Next Project: Arc 40 CBT Array

[skatz]

No authority on finishing, but I have several times used a published finish that consisted of BLO, followed by several coats of thinned dewaxed shellac (I simply used Seal Coat), followed by oil based poly. Then rubbed out with 0000 steel wool. There was some extremely light sanding between the shellac and the poly.
I wonder about the darkening of oil finishes that has been mentioned, does that depend on sunlight exposure/UV?

[Millstonemike]

I don't find Rotozips very useful even for drywall.

Yes, it seems like overkill of the trusty, pistol-shaped, 7" drywall saw.

[jhollander]

Rotozip come with 1/8 inch bits either up or down cut. No bearing on those bits just a blank spot. I don't find Rotozips very useful even for drywall.

[tomzarbo]

The bearing making marks depends really on the user and router being used. When I use a big two-handed router I tend to get the bearing mark because I end up using more pressure. When I use the trim router with one hand the bearing marks are either very light or not there at all. I suppose you could use too much pressure with anything, but with a big heavy two-handed router, it's more likely.
I think with Kevin's light die grinder approach with tape for the bearing to ride on, it would be pretty hard to goof up... unless you got the angle pretty far off, which is possible.

But then again, we're not just big oafs... we're craftsmen, right? Seriously though, I built a jig/tool for trimming 1/8" or 1/4" MDF and it used a trim router and some guides. I needed it because of the angles and curves I was dealing with. I like Kevin's solution to the problem. I just picked up one of the bits he used and a cheaper, but still tiny die grinder to give it a try.

I've used my father's rotozip several times and the bit can wander a lot... it's fairly flexible. I'd be scared to use that to trim veneer. Maybe with such a thin piece of wood to cut it may stay in place, but I'd try it out first.

TomZ

[Kevin K.]

nice video Kevin. I have had marks from the bearing, but it kind of depresses the fibers, nothing more... but is visible after first trimming, goes away on sanding.

I am going to get the bit, and look around got the straight angle grinder - it is a air tool or an electric one you are using? I need to find a cheap electric one.

It wouldn't really matter if it's electric or air Ani, just need to be able to chuck up a 1/4" shank.

[Kevin K.]

Is this more or less like a Rotozip spiral-blade? It seems one of those could do the job as well.

Later,
Wolf

It is similar Ben. Not sure if the Rotozip cutter is upcut or downcut and I haven't seen one with a bearing. Not saying they don't make one with a bearing, I just haven't seen it.

[ani_101]

nice video Kevin. I have had marks from the bearing, but it kind of depresses the fibers, nothing more... but is visible after first trimming, goes away on sanding.

I am going to get the bit, and look around got the straight angle grinder - it is a air tool or an electric one you are using? I need to find a cheap electric one.

[Wolf]

Is this more or less like a Rotozip spiral-blade? It seems one of those could do the job as well.

Later,
Wolf

[Kevin K.]

I just ordered one of these a week or two ago and will be trying it out this week/weekend. I've never had issues with a flush cut bit burning the wood unless it didn't have a bearing on the bottom. Is it only a concern because you are doing it freehand and could hit the cabinet with the tip rather than the bearing, or have you actually had the free spinning bearing cause issues?

The tape is more for protection from the tip like you suggested although I have had marks left from the bearing. They were not deep, more like it buffed the veneer. Kind of depends on how much down pressure you are applying with the bit. Sanded off easily enough.

[Navy Guy]

It's a spiral down cut bit Don. Here is a link for one on Ebay with free shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flush-Trim-S...3D221921402206

This bit will cut much cleaner than a straight cutter for this application. The straight cut bits tend to splinter and tear the veneer more.

I just ordered one of these a week or two ago and will be trying it out this week/weekend. I've never had issues with a flush cut bit burning the wood unless it didn't have a bearing on the bottom. Is it only a concern because you are doing it freehand and could hit the cabinet with the tip rather than the bearing, or have you actually had the free spinning bearing cause issues?

[Kevin K.]

It's a spiral down cut bit Don. Here is a link for one on Ebay with free shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flush-Trim-S...3D221921402206

This bit will cut much cleaner than a straight cutter for this application. The straight cut bits tend to splinter and tear the veneer more.

[donradick]

thanks Kevin - I can see how a lighter and smaller trimmer can allow better control.
For that reason, I usually just trim with a utility knife and fresh blade.

Is that a straight cut router trim bit?

[Kevin K.]

That looks a lot less scary after seeing you do it Kevin.

A few things I noticed that new guys should pay attention to is that you placed the cabinet in a way so that what you're trimming is comfortable to get to.
Also, you protected the existing veneer with tape to prevent any bearing gouges like you mentioned, which is a big issue -- even with hardwood veneers.
I also noticed that you kept the bearing pretty close to the edge so if the angle you're holding the tool at varies a bit as you move, you're less likely to gouge the cabinet with the cutter -- which you would see because of the tape. That's all stuff we would usually have to learn the hard way unfortunately.

Excellent! Thanks for posting this, there's a lot of information there if we look. I learned a few things and I'm going to order that bit this weekend. I love the idea of using a rather small die grinder as opposed to a MUCH larger trim router. Consider your idea stolen! Although I may go El-Cheapo and use a $15 HF Tools grinder for the time being.

TomZ

Those are all great points Tom. You're much better at explaining things then me. I'm still dealing with the stage fright thing, eventually I'll get more comfortable.

Couple of things I would add to your suggestions. Not just any masking tape, it needs to be the "delicate surface" stuff. It will stick well enough for the routing process and when it comes time to peel it off, it doesn't remove a bunch of the wood fibers from your Veneer. Yea, the tape is a little pricey, but nothing compared to the cost of the veneer going on the speaker. Second suggestion would be use a smaller air hose if you have one available. The lighter air hose would help in keeping the router parallel to the guide surface. I didn't do it in the videos above but could definitely feel the weight of the air hose trying to pull it down.

Let us know how the harbor freight grinder works out. Main thing to watch out for would be "whip" in the router bit due to poor nose pilot bearing on the grinder. If it works, then it's less than $40 for router and bit, not bad.

[tomzarbo]

That looks a lot less scary after seeing you do it Kevin.

A few things I noticed that new guys should pay attention to is that you placed the cabinet in a way so that what you're trimming is comfortable to get to.
Also, you protected the existing veneer with tape to prevent any bearing gouges like you mentioned, which is a big issue -- even with hardwood veneers.
I also noticed that you kept the bearing pretty close to the edge so if the angle you're holding the tool at varies a bit as you move, you're less likely to gouge the cabinet with the cutter -- which you would see because of the tape. That's all stuff we would usually have to learn the hard way unfortunately.

Excellent! Thanks for posting this, there's a lot of information there if we look. I learned a few things and I'm going to order that bit this weekend. I love the idea of using a rather small die grinder as opposed to a MUCH larger trim router. Consider your idea stolen! Although I may go El-Cheapo and use a $15 HF Tools grinder for the time being.

TomZ

[Kevin K.]

Here is a re-shoot trimming another side. A little better cause it's full screen this time.

Of course the air compressor had to come on during the video, can't catch a break. Anyway, it's not real difficult guys and probably a little faster than cutting it with a knife. Word of caution, the little cutter is super sharp, keep your fingers clear at all times or it's gonna leave a nasty mark.