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[Sydney]

RE: Tung Oil: I'd be a bit concerned that Tung OIl would darken over time. I have seen it myself; though it is debated among wood workers ( no surprise ).

[tomzarbo]

Kevin, they look amazing.
Or I should say... 'it' looks amazing. Good choice to have the veneer go straight up/down, that looks good. We need a pic with you or Kole standing next to them for scale. I bet getting the veneer edges perfect took a lot of time. That's fussy, work with a sanding block, and a lot of it -- a labor of love!

They look to be shaped so the base will rest under one hand and the other arm can cradle the middle so it's somewhat comfortable? ... still... yeah, lift with your legs!

I recently just moved my 105 lb. subwoofer from one room to the other and lost it about a foot off the floor as I tried to set it down. Dinged the corner a smidge, but you can't tell. I was afraid I goofed up the plate amp but I didn't thank goodness. That would be a bad feeling if you dumped one of those for sure.

You've given yourself lots of time to get the audio part of the equation dialed in. I admire your tenacity... you got right to work after this years MWAF and haven't let up.

TomZ

[Kevin K.]

Forgot to mention I put this one on the scale and it came in at 51lbs. Weighed a tweeter and woofer, did the math, and they should ad another 27lbs. So, right around 80ish when loaded, sounds like a guaranteed visit to a back doctor the first time I pick em up wrong. I know, I know, lift with your legs, not your back. Will try to remember that every time I move em.

[Kevin K.]

Nearing the home stretch now. Veneer on one of the cabinets, no finish yet. Hope to apply veneer on the other this weekend and then all that will leave is finish work, and a lot of it I might ad. Still have another week or so to play with some different finishes. Tried some Tung oil on a piece of the Sapele scrap, really liked how it brought it to life. Tried Roman's suggestion and applied Shellac on a piece of scrap from the baffles, really liked that also. I suck at French Polishing so I may have to settle on Lacquer. Anyhow, here are some pics:






The last photo is a trick I learned from Tom. Get down on the floor to take the picture, it makes them look huge. This also kind of added the roller coaster effect to it.

[Kevin K.]

Some updates....

Earlier in the thread I mentioned back-filling the grooves that were cut in the panels to allow them to flex easier. Used an epoxy laminating resin, added Cab-O-Sil silica to thicken it to a peanut butter consistency and packed it into the grooves.


Here is a pic of the 1-1/2" blocks that were added for securing the last panels.


Finished cutting the last of the damping. These stayed in place since they were trapped between the other two damping panels. Just had to remove the paper right before securing the panel. Will go in and hand press them to the panels after the panels are glued.


Picked up a tube of the PL Premium. Glued a test piece Monday afternoon and tried to break it apart on Tuesday. This stuff is awesome! The consistency looked to be exactly what I needed for this. Applied a 1/4" bead down the middle of the panels that surrounded the enclosure and used titebond everywhere else.


The final panels were clamped, strapped, and screwed. Sydney's foam suggestion for the ratchet clamps worked great, no damage to the veneer.


Took a look inside after one of the panels was secured and the PL Premium looks like it worked out perfect.



Much obliged for all the suggestions fellas, they worked out great!

[Kevin K.]

Appreciate all of the input guys!

From the sounds of it, not a whole lot of difference between the gorilla glue and PL premium other than thickness and from what I have read, the PL doesn't require moisture activation. Since the PL is thicker, I'll use that on the rib with the arrows to make sure I get a good seal and probably titebond III everywhere else. Will try Sydney's suggestion on the pipe foam in order to use ratchet clamps for additional clamping force and I'll leave everything clamped up at least a couple of days.

Who knows, with a little luck, maybe I'll be starting the Sapele veneer this next weekend.

[Wolf]

Usually I can take the clamps off in about 4 hours, and the glue will be hard in 6-8 hrs to where I can scrape off the excess. I recommend being above 50 degrees F to use any glue, and the optimal 60+.
If it's something where you forced the panels to mate, then yes- more time is a good idea.

Later,
Wolf

[jhollander]

I've used the both the gorilla glue and PL polyurethane in tubes. I prefer the PL in tubes as it's thicker and you can get a decent bead on the MDF edges. I've also used a spray bottle to add moisture when I did a glue up in the winter. My only tip would be to clamp/ screw/ hold for a day or two. The poly glues don't seem to get hold strength as fast as the yellow glues.

[Wolf]

The GG should likely work for that sized gap. Both are polyurethane glues. I like using a sponge, as a spray bottle will wet a lot more surface area than you may want to in application. I know of others using spray bottles, but I've not preferred that method. I use a small blue scotch-brite sponge I've had in the garage for years for this purpose alone. You just have to get it moist, not soaked. I would make a sample first to test your methods.

Later,
Wolf

[Kevin K.]

Cut the panel into two pieces so you can visually ensure the chamber is sealed? Use something thicker like a soft rubber/putty or perhaps silicone on just that joint? Never done anything like this so these are just WAG's here.

I like the idea of cutting the panel into two pieces to visually ensure it's sealed but feel that could lead to problems after the veneer is applied and the seam might telegraph.

[Kevin K.]

I pretty much only use Gorria-Grue (, I like saying it that way) anymore. I used to use Elmer's Ultimate as it wasn't as thick, but it's harder to source in larger bottles now than GG.
As long as you use enough, it can fill the gaps, but if you want maximum filling glue, the PL is likely better. Don't use it sparingly. Run a good bead down the edge and clamp. Since Poly glue requires moisture to expand and bond, if it's dry In your shop, you should likely moisten the mating surfaces with a damp sponge before applying the glue. The little amount used will not really affect the MDF.

Oh- and DON'T wear clothes you care anything about. It will not wash out. If I get it on my fingers, I like to keep a small container of sawdust handy to absorb it. This way you don't have to go wash or adhere your other things to your hand.

Later,
Wolf

Worst case scenario for the gaps would be about a razor blade thickness. Knowing this, would you suggest the urethane or the PL Premium? If urethane, would it be better to wet the surfaces with a damp sponge before applying the glue or mist the glue with a spray bottle right before applying the panel, have you tried it with a spray bottle?

[drab]

Cut the panel into two pieces so you can visually ensure the chamber is sealed? Use something thicker like a soft rubber/putty or perhaps silicone on just that joint? Never done anything like this so these are just WAG's here.

[Wolf]

I pretty much only use Gorria-Grue (, I like saying it that way) anymore. I used to use Elmer's Ultimate as it wasn't as thick, but it's harder to source in larger bottles now than GG.
As long as you use enough, it can fill the gaps, but if you want maximum filling glue, the PL is likely better. Don't use it sparingly. Run a good bead down the edge and clamp. Since Poly glue requires moisture to expand and bond, if it's dry In your shop, you should likely moisten the mating surfaces with a damp sponge before applying the glue. The little amount used will not really affect the MDF.

Oh- and DON'T wear clothes you care anything about. It will not wash out. If I get it on my fingers, I like to keep a small container of sawdust handy to absorb it. This way you don't have to go wash or adhere your other things to your hand.

Later,
Wolf

[Sydney]

I guessing your tolerances are very tight and a dry fit of the piece confirms no gaps...
Standard Urethane ( aka Gorilla ) would be sufficient.
I also thought that attaching several small wood blocks/strips to the interior frame ( to screw into ) would avoid using the MDF and possible splitting.
Closed Cell foam ( like pipe insulation ) can be used as clamp cushions.

[Kevin K.]

You might try something thick like PL Premium adhesive. I've heard Gorilla Glue can expand enough to push things around sometimes, but I have no experience using either, so take this with a grain of salt.

I've seen the PL Premium mentioned a couple of times here on the forum. Do you know what the pro's or cons are vs the Gorilla urethane glue?