Next Project: Arc 40 CBT Array

[Wolf]

Usually I can take the clamps off in about 4 hours, and the glue will be hard in 6-8 hrs to where I can scrape off the excess. I recommend being above 50 degrees F to use any glue, and the optimal 60+.
If it's something where you forced the panels to mate, then yes- more time is a good idea.

Later,
Wolf

[Kevin K.]

Appreciate all of the input guys!

From the sounds of it, not a whole lot of difference between the gorilla glue and PL premium other than thickness and from what I have read, the PL doesn't require moisture activation. Since the PL is thicker, I'll use that on the rib with the arrows to make sure I get a good seal and probably titebond III everywhere else. Will try Sydney's suggestion on the pipe foam in order to use ratchet clamps for additional clamping force and I'll leave everything clamped up at least a couple of days.

Who knows, with a little luck, maybe I'll be starting the Sapele veneer this next weekend.

[Kevin K.]

Some updates....

Earlier in the thread I mentioned back-filling the grooves that were cut in the panels to allow them to flex easier. Used an epoxy laminating resin, added Cab-O-Sil silica to thicken it to a peanut butter consistency and packed it into the grooves.


Here is a pic of the 1-1/2" blocks that were added for securing the last panels.


Finished cutting the last of the damping. These stayed in place since they were trapped between the other two damping panels. Just had to remove the paper right before securing the panel. Will go in and hand press them to the panels after the panels are glued.


Picked up a tube of the PL Premium. Glued a test piece Monday afternoon and tried to break it apart on Tuesday. This stuff is awesome! The consistency looked to be exactly what I needed for this. Applied a 1/4" bead down the middle of the panels that surrounded the enclosure and used titebond everywhere else.


The final panels were clamped, strapped, and screwed. Sydney's foam suggestion for the ratchet clamps worked great, no damage to the veneer.


Took a look inside after one of the panels was secured and the PL Premium looks like it worked out perfect.



Much obliged for all the suggestions fellas, they worked out great!

[Kevin K.]

Nearing the home stretch now. Veneer on one of the cabinets, no finish yet. Hope to apply veneer on the other this weekend and then all that will leave is finish work, and a lot of it I might ad. Still have another week or so to play with some different finishes. Tried some Tung oil on a piece of the Sapele scrap, really liked how it brought it to life. Tried Roman's suggestion and applied Shellac on a piece of scrap from the baffles, really liked that also. I suck at French Polishing so I may have to settle on Lacquer. Anyhow, here are some pics:






The last photo is a trick I learned from Tom. Get down on the floor to take the picture, it makes them look huge. This also kind of added the roller coaster effect to it.

[Kevin K.]

Forgot to mention I put this one on the scale and it came in at 51lbs. Weighed a tweeter and woofer, did the math, and they should ad another 27lbs. So, right around 80ish when loaded, sounds like a guaranteed visit to a back doctor the first time I pick em up wrong. I know, I know, lift with your legs, not your back. Will try to remember that every time I move em.

[tomzarbo]

Kevin, they look amazing.
Or I should say... 'it' looks amazing. Good choice to have the veneer go straight up/down, that looks good. We need a pic with you or Kole standing next to them for scale. I bet getting the veneer edges perfect took a lot of time. That's fussy, work with a sanding block, and a lot of it -- a labor of love!

They look to be shaped so the base will rest under one hand and the other arm can cradle the middle so it's somewhat comfortable? ... still... yeah, lift with your legs!

I recently just moved my 105 lb. subwoofer from one room to the other and lost it about a foot off the floor as I tried to set it down. Dinged the corner a smidge, but you can't tell. I was afraid I goofed up the plate amp but I didn't thank goodness. That would be a bad feeling if you dumped one of those for sure.

You've given yourself lots of time to get the audio part of the equation dialed in. I admire your tenacity... you got right to work after this years MWAF and haven't let up.

TomZ

[Sydney]

RE: Tung Oil: I'd be a bit concerned that Tung OIl would darken over time. I have seen it myself; though it is debated among wood workers ( no surprise ).

[Millstonemike]

Kevin, they look amazing. ... Good choice to have the veneer go straight up/down, that looks good. TomZ

+1. The vertical veneer looks awesome (as does the entire build). Work of this quality transcends anything in the high-end audio store.

I got good results on natural wood using danish oil thinned 50/50 with mineral spirits; applied using a French polish technique. It was easy but time consuming. But I have nearly zero experience with wood finishing so I can't recommend ...

[Kevin K.]

Thanks guys.

Yea, lots of block sanding Tom. I used a straight angle die grinder with this bit http://www.veneersupplies.com/produc...outer-Bit.html to rough cut the veneer by hand and then finished the rest with the sanding block. Did you ever pick up one of these cutters Tom? Worth their weight in gold if you ask me.

I've done a little experimenting with the Danish oil Mike but didn't try thinning it, might give that a whirl on some scraps to see how it looks. Thanks.

[Kevin K.]

RE: Tung Oil: I'd be a bit concerned that Tung OIl would darken over time. I have seen it myself; though it is debated among wood workers ( no surprise ).

That was one of my concerns about the Tung Oil on the Sapele, it did darken it quite a bit. Would Boiled Linseed Oil do the same?

[Sydney]

My understanding ( from those who have pieces using Bold Linseed for decades ) is yes.
I do have older pieces treated with Tung Oil that don't appear to gotten substantially darker yet.
The contention ( but no consensus ) is that such oils vary and some are filtered of substances that darken with age.
I've been using Teak Oil, but these pieces are not many years oils.

[Kevin K.]

My understanding ( from those who have pieces using Bold Linseed for decades ) is yes.
I do have older pieces treated with Tung Oil that don't appear to gotten substantially darker yet.
The contention ( but no consensus ) is that such oils vary and some are filtered of substances that darken with age.
I've been using Teak Oil, but these pieces are not many years oils.

It's my understanding that a lot of users don't topcoat Tung Oil so a new or fresh coat could be applied as time required. What if it was sealed and then lacquered over? Do you think it would still continue to darken that way?

[Millstonemike]

It's my understanding that a lot of users don't topcoat Tung Oil so a new or fresh coat could be applied as time required.

I read the gunsmiths finishing stocks apply 1 coat a day for a week, 1 coat a week for a month and 1 coat a month for a year. Then once a year after that. That last line and my experience with danish oil is that left alone, touch-up is just applying another coat.

[Navy Guy]

It's my understanding that a lot of users don't topcoat Tung Oil so a new or fresh coat could be applied as time required. What if it was sealed and then lacquered over? Do you think it would still continue to darken that way?

If you want to keep the wood from darkening you need to use a water based finish. All oil based finishes will cause the wood to darken. Some do more than others and I'm not sure which is best for limiting the amount of darkening, but water based is really the only way to prevent the finish from causing it.

[Sydney]

It's my understanding that a lot of users don't topcoat Tung Oil so a new or fresh coat could be applied as time required. What if it was sealed and then lacquered over? Do you think it would still continue to darken that way?

I've not tried that to know; so far both Tung and Teak have worked well after 10+ years. Linseed Oil pieces were dark after close to 40 years.