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  • Bluetooth Project

    I am thinking about building a bluetooth speaker, just because it sounds like fun.

    I would like to try this amp board
    https://www.parts-express.com/wondom...les--320-3520#!

    With a full-range speaker such as:
    https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...8-ohm--295-349

    I would likely run a total of 4 speakers (2 wired in parallel on each channel).

    In order to keep the size and weight down I will probably build this out of half-inch MDF.

    I have seen several similar builds here on the forums, thought I would solicit some opinions before pulled the trigger on the order. I am especially curious about these full-range speakers.

  • #2
    Since no one has responded I will chime in. The amp you have chosen at full power might be a little much for a pair of PS95s on each channel. Couple of questions. Is the idea for the project a set of speakers or more of a boombox design. Also, are you planning to use the battery module for the amp you have chosen? The PS95 is a great little 3-1/2: driver. It has extended highs and in the right ported enclosure has decent low end.
    "A dirty shop is an unsafe shop, if you injure yourself in a clean shop you are just stupid" - Coach Kupchinsky

    The Madeleine
    The Roxster
    Swopes 5.0
    Acoustic Panels
    Living Room Make Over

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    • #3
      The wondom boards are fun and somewhat challenging at the same time. I say go for it! In addition to Gordy' points, you have an option to downgrade the amp to a 15 or 30 watt version and you would not have to use 4 speakers which would eliminate the need for some space. Will the box be portable? Outdoor use? 1/2 mdf is great for small boxes but does not hold up very well to exterior elements very well. Check out the KAB boards, and I recommend the "accessories" including the bracket. The leds are very bright.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Gordy View Post
        PS95 is a great little 3-1/2: driver. It has extended highs and in the right ported enclosure has decent low end.
        Gee, looking at the PS95 Freq. curve, it seems to get pretty ragged ~2Khz on up. I see other drivers that are much smoother our to about 10Khz and the low end is similar; Faital Pro 4FE35-4, RS100-4, etc. So help me understand.


        Justin, if you d decide to go with one speaker, I would recommend a 4 ohm driver to get the power out of the amp and to have extra headroom. This is all but a must if you plan on operating with the battery module (and driver sensitivity is a also a factor).

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Millstonemike View Post

          Gee, looking at the PS95 Freq. curve, it seems to get pretty ragged ~2Khz on up.
          I noticed that, I will give those other drivers a look. There was a 3" Tang Band on sale a few weeks back, and it got me thinking about this idea.

          My primary goal is to experiment with small "full-range" drivers. I know that it is unrealistic to expect a $20 driver to play full-range and do it very well. But, as we age our ability to hear high frequencies begins to drop off. So what is the harm in a boom-box that can't play that upper octave?


          This project will either become a bedroom speaker or I may use it in my office at work, and I do plan on using a boom-box design. I don't plan on making it portable or using it outside. I am warming up to the idea of the 30 watt board. I can drop down to a single 8 ohm driver, this will save $40. I can then upgrade to a better driver, or build two boomboxes. The 15 watt board uses BT 2.1, no thanks.






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          • #6
            take a gander at part 297-2156. It would have great off axis response and fits within confines of the 30 watt per channel amp. I am using some bmrs from tectonic elements (hivi) on a different desktop setup and really enjoy this type of speaker, and they require minimal space. Dayton has a few good full rangers as well. This is the fun part; you are the kid and Parts Express is your candy store.
            I am using the wondom 30 amp board that is setup in it's own (funky) enclosure that feeds a pair of two ways with a woofer similar to 295-424 and a vifa tweeter bought from the buyouts, 299-124, crossed at 4500 hz. both speakers are ported, but would be about the size of a toddler's shoe box. Granted I am new to this too, but I could not be happier with the sound although I don't crank up the volume often.
            Let us know how it goes.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Onehandclappin View Post
              take a gander at part 297-2156. It would have great off axis response and fits within confines of the 30 watt per channel amp. I am using some bmrs from tectonic elements (hivi) on a different desktop setup and really enjoy this type of speaker, and they require minimal space. Dayton has a few good full rangers as well. This is the fun part; you are the kid and Parts Express is your candy store.
              I am using the wondom 30 amp board that is setup in it's own (funky) enclosure that feeds a pair of two ways with a woofer similar to 295-424 and a vifa tweeter bought from the buyouts, 299-124, crossed at 4500 hz. both speakers are ported, but would be about the size of a toddler's shoe box. Granted I am new to this too, but I could not be happier with the sound although I don't crank up the volume often.
              Let us know how it goes.
              I like this one. I might go with it.

              https://www.parts-express.com/tang-b...eaker--264-911

              I know it only handles 15 watts, but I don't believe that these little amp boards will do their rated power. If anybody has information to the contrary it would be a pleasant surprise.

              Comment


              • #8
                I'm using 4 of these full range wired in parallel , 2 per side and they work very well in the boom box I built. No crossover using a lepai 2020A+ http://www.parts-express.com/peerles...ofer--264-1062

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Millstonemike View Post

                  Gee, looking at the PS95 Freq. curve, it seems to get pretty ragged ~2Khz on up. I see other drivers that are much smoother our to about 10Khz and the low end is similar; Faital Pro 4FE35-4, RS100-4, etc. So help me understand.

                  True story the PS95 gets wobbly at 2k and the RS100 is a bit smoother but does not have the highs that the PS95 has or the off axis response. I have used both a lot in several different configurations. In the right enclosure The 95 is a great budget minded full range that does not need a lot of power. It also calms down a bit after break in. I have had some 95s sound pretty funky in the first hour then they smooth out. Grill cloth will also calm some of the 10k rise. I really like the RS100 but for me it needs a tweeter. Can't speak for the FP driver as I have never used it.

                  In fact, I just did a pair of 95s in a boombox config both at .119 ft3 with a 1x3 port. They sound pretty smooth running off a Sure 2x15 BT/Amp combo on battery power. It fills my entire house with sound
                  Last edited by Gordy; 12-17-2016, 06:46 PM.
                  "A dirty shop is an unsafe shop, if you injure yourself in a clean shop you are just stupid" - Coach Kupchinsky

                  The Madeleine
                  The Roxster
                  Swopes 5.0
                  Acoustic Panels
                  Living Room Make Over

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by ThisJustin View Post
                    ... But, as we age our ability to hear high frequencies begins to drop off. So what is the harm in a boom-box that can't play that upper octave?


                    I built a 2.1 boom box with an 8" woofer and 2 mids that kinda' go up to 10khz for that very reason.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by ThisJustin View Post

                      I like this one. I might go with it.

                      https://www.parts-express.com/tang-b...eaker--264-911

                      I know it only handles 15 watts, but I don't believe that these little amp boards will do their rated power. If anybody has information to the contrary it would be a pleasant surprise.
                      Plugged in, you can get 24V to the 2x30/50w boards. In reality, each of those amp ratings has to do with the chips thermal dissipation limitations. So, for an 8 ohm driver at 24v, you get a nominal 36w rms (not 50w on the 2x50 board). But step down to a 19v, (e.x., a typical laptop power brick) and that reduces power for an 8 ohm driver to a nominal 22w. I would think that would be more than enough for indoors. Both give the amp some headroom (but don't have a "lead foot" on the volume control).

                      But with 12V @ 8 ohms, ala 3 LiPos, that drops to 9w rms. Outside, that may leave you wanting. depending on driver sensitivity. Hence for portables, you can double the power out to 18w rms by using 4 ohm drivers.

                      And don't forget baffle step were you have to compensate the higher end for loses in the low end. Not an issue with 2 sets of speakers.

                      The TB driver is nice high up but won't go very low, maybe 100hz. The other drivers were in the 60hz range, big difference.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Thinking of this power supply for the project:

                        https://www.parts-express.com/24-vdc...ator--129-160#!

                        Quick question for those that have done similar. What is the best way to connect this to the board. Should I just clip the end off and solder to the leads that come with the amp, or would I be better off buying an plug for the power supply and soldering to the lead? Best reason for the second option --- I can re-use the power supply one day down the road.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by ThisJustin View Post
                          Thinking of this power supply for the project:

                          https://www.parts-express.com/24-vdc...ator--129-160#!

                          Quick question for those that have done similar. What is the best way to connect this to the board. Should I just clip the end off and solder to the leads that come with the amp, or would I be better off buying an plug for the power supply and soldering to the lead? Best reason for the second option --- I can re-use the power supply one day down the road.
                          Solder to a plug. Makes the most sense and allows for the most flexibility.
                          "A dirty shop is an unsafe shop, if you injure yourself in a clean shop you are just stupid" - Coach Kupchinsky

                          The Madeleine
                          The Roxster
                          Swopes 5.0
                          Acoustic Panels
                          Living Room Make Over

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Onehandclappin View Post
                            take a gander at part 297-2156. It would have great off axis response and fits within confines of the 30 watt per channel amp. I am using some bmrs from tectonic elements (hivi) on a different desktop setup and really enjoy this type of speaker, and they require minimal space. Dayton has a few good full rangers as well. This is the fun part; you are the kid and Parts Express is your candy store.
                            I ended up ordering 4 of the BMR's (https://www.parts-express.com/tecton...-ohm--297-2156) and the 50 watt amp. According the the QandA for those speakers a pair will work well in a .4 ft^3 enclosure with a 2" port tuned to 61 hz. I did some playing in WinISD and Sketchup to see what I could come up with. I am thinking three boxes, one for the amp and one for the speakers. I am going for something tall and skinny, that can sit on either side of a monitor. Or it can be turned on it's side and I could sit one monitor on each of them (I have three at work, the center monitor could sit on the amp box).

                            Attached you will find an example of what I am going for. In this particular one my goal was to draw the worlds most complex port. This one is 3.5 Inches tall (measured in the interior). That will lead to issues when I cut the 3.4" speaker cut outs. I will probably kick it up to 4".

                            For those that have experience with this type of project. When I build a box like this, with a big slot port in the middle, what happens? Will each speaker behave like it is in a it's own chamber? I would like to stick with a flared slot port, and I like the idea of putting it in the middle for visual effect.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by ThisJustin View Post
                              For those that have experience with this type of project. When I build a box like this, with a big slot port in the middle, what happens? Will each speaker behave like it is in a it's own chamber? I would like to stick with a flared slot port, and I like the idea of putting it in the middle for visual effect.
                              With identical drivers fed the same signall, the single, larger box will behave as two smaller boxes for each driver. The port size also needs to accommodate airflow for two drivers. After selecting the driver in a new project, the next screen will be driver usage; select 2. WinISD will calculate double the box volume than it would for a single driver. And it will calculate the new port length based on the box tuning.

                              You should model the driver in the enclosure in sketchup to see a more realistic rendering. And let us see - feed the pix fix

                              Love the slot port.

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