Easy ZMA and T/S Parameters Using The LIMP Module in ARTA - An Illustrated Guide

[hongrn]

And please don't forget to read Charlie Laub's excellent guide on how to generate FRD files for your drivers using the ARTA module. Once you know how to obtain T/S parameters, model your box, generate ZMA and FRD files, crossover modeling is just a few steps away. It's very difficult to help newcomers without good data, but when you have a good set of measurements, everyone here can help you put together a great sounding system that you can call your own.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...tTYmRDHMCrTtUw

[johnnyrichards]

I win the internet today, ya'll can stop tryin'

Christmas present from the kid

[hongrn]

You've got to love the grin on that face...

[tedwilt]

Arta is updated to 1.9.0 as of January, 6, 2017 1.9.1 as of now

[AlexRivera]

This is Great, Thanks!!

I'd be even better if somebody contributed with the ARTA Switch Box Illustrated Guide for newbies like me

[AlexRivera]

Thanks,
Alex

[johnnyrichards]

I had that happen three times. First time was the original POS Dayton Woofer Tester 3, second and third times were both bad USB sound cards. My original self-contained jig using an inexpensive Ebay sourced USB card gave up the ghost and started doing that same thing. The last time was when I tried using a Behringer UMC202HD which was a noisy POS.

I switched to a Creative X-Fi USB model and that thing is squeaky clean from 10Hz to well over 40K.

[AlexRivera]

I had that happen three times. First time was the original POS Dayton Woofer Tester 3, second and third times were both bad USB sound cards. My original self-contained jig using an inexpensive Ebay sourced USB card gave up the ghost and started doing that same thing. The last time was when I tried using a Behringer UMC202HD which was a noisy POS. I switched to a Creative X-Fi USB model and that thing is squeaky clean from 10Hz to well over 40K.

Thanks for the reply!!

So, I do have a problem then, I will try another computer and see how that goes.

[AlexRivera]

Another question for the experts, so if the "100" Ohms resistor ended up being a 98.9 Ohms resistor do I need to adjust something else or enter some compensation value somewhere?

[hongrn]

Another question for the experts, so if the "100" Ohms resistor ended up being a 98.9 Ohms resistor do I need to adjust something else or enter some compensation value somewhere?

Alex, I don't believe it's going to make a big difference, since you're talking about being 99% close to the reference value. However, to change the value of the resistor, go to Setup, then select Measurement to see this dialog box:

[AlexRivera]

Alex, I don't believe it's going to make a big difference, since you're talking about being 99% close to the reference value. However, to change the value of the resisitor, go to Setup, then select Measurement to see this dialog box:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1337153[/ATTACH]

Awesome Thanks Hong!!!

[theinventor]

Thanks for the post Hong.

[blindsquirrel]

Calibration question... it's not clear if cal is done with output looped to input (that's what LIMP seems to say) or with the jig plugged in but not connected to anything on the test clips. Which is it?

I fought this crap for four days getting nowhere. I built a jig per diagrams but it would. not. work. for anything. All I got was two nearly straight horizontal lines. Tried 3 different laptops with WDM and ASIO drivers, my desktop with a good Xonar DG card, and then the onboard sound on the desktop. No go on all. Didn't start working until I went to Measurement Setup > Measurement config > Reference channel > and changed from the default Right, to Left. All of a sudden it's giving plausible results. What did I do wrong?

[blindsquirrel]

Calibration? Anybody? Hello?

[hongrn]

Calibration is explained in post number 6. Please try to read the entire thread and follow the instructions.