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TPA3116 2.1 Amp - Step by Step Modifications

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  • Millstonemike
    replied
    Originally posted by modem7 View Post

    Hello,

    So sorry to necro this old thread, but it's the only thread that I've found that matches exactly what I'd like to do!

    I've just purchased a Nobsound GFJ510 which seems to contain an Aiyima board inside. Similar, but a few key differences that I can see from your original post!

    I'm just curious if you'd be able to assist with the modification to this board to set the HP to around 100hz or thereabouts?

    TLDR: I've got two full range drivers with an F3 of 101hz, and I'm about to install a sub that'll be able to do around 38-200hz. I noticed that the speakers still do full duty and would certainly like to relieve them of said duty and pass that along to the sub itself. My knowledge of which caps and where is unfortunately quite lacking.

    Thank you, and again, apologies for the necro!
    The board in the GF510, especially the front-end before the two amp chips, is different than any board I've analyzed. The only thing I can offer is this:

    Determine which chip is handling the L-R full range. Look at the chip's L-R inputs (data sheet has the pin out), and trace the inputs through a SMD capacitor to the respective op-amp outputs. Decreasing the value of the cap will increase the F3 of the 1st order HP filter - inherent in any design using decoupling caps between components where the chip has a known input resistance. While resistors are labeled with values, the caps are not. So there's not enough info to calculate replacement values to meet your needs. It would lab test and analyze endeavor (not to mention soldering SMDs).

    If your modeling the full range drivers (I presumed their sealed) try using a smaller volume - less excursion down low, hence less output. And they'll inherently take less power mating to the sub output because: (1) There's two of them - plus 6 dB output; and (2) they're likely way more efficient than the sub driver.

    Leave a comment:


  • modem7
    replied
    Originally posted by Millstonemike View Post
    The amp uses one chip for the ".1" sub channel and has a fixed, sallen-key topology 2nd order LP filter with Butterworth damping. On my board, the LP F3 was 107hz. I've successfully modified that filter by replacing 2 box poly caps. In the schematic, you can see a table of possible F3s given standard value capacitors. I added a legend to the amp's picture to cross refrence with the schematic.
    Hello,

    So sorry to necro this old thread, but it's the only thread that I've found that matches exactly what I'd like to do!

    I've just purchased a Nobsound GFJ510 which seems to contain an Aiyima board inside. Similar, but a few key differences that I can see from your original post!

    I'm just curious if you'd be able to assist with the modification to this board to set the HP to around 100hz or thereabouts?

    TLDR: I've got two full range drivers with an F3 of 101hz, and I'm about to install a sub that'll be able to do around 38-200hz. I noticed that the speakers still do full duty and would certainly like to relieve them of said duty and pass that along to the sub itself. My knowledge of which caps and where is unfortunately quite lacking.

    Thank you, and again, apologies for the necro!
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • da_burl
    replied
    Originally posted by Millstonemike View Post
    A quick reply for now ...

    I'll take any bet that the sub frequency adjustment pot is really sub volume pot. The basic design of that board has a fixed LP circa 107 Hz (if the parts were populated correctly). The three pots are: Sub volume, L-R volume and overall volume. The sub/L-R vol pots can be used to tailor the sub volume vis-a-vis the L-R volume.

    Also, I'd advise to read up on Li-Ion cells (18560) batteries. You cannot just charge them with an AC adapter. They need need charge current management and cell protection (over/under voltage, max current, etc.) lest they catch fire. Remember those news reports of the hover boards catching fire. I have a 6S Li-Ion battery pack with a computer charger that manages each cell during charging. And since this is a stationary system, why not just use a 24 V DC, 5 A "Brick" AC PS?




    Hey, thanks for the info, I feel like you're probably right and there is either incorrect or misleading information in the item description, I'll find out when I get it.

    On the 18650 Li-Ion batteries, I did not mean to say I would be using some diy charger, I have two "official" 4 bank chargers used by the vaping community for 18650 batteries with all the safety features you mentioned., like this:

    http://lygte-info.dk/review/Review%2...l-44%20UK.html

    I haven't had a fire or explosion in 4-5 years of using these, my other one is a Nitecore which is kind of the standard in this world. I would just charge the batteries up at home before going somewhere, and just use the amp for as long as it would last. I just kinda wondered how long you think the amp might run with 2 AH, maybe a little more (the batteries are various values usually expressed as 2100 or 2500 or 3200 mAH) and they are already used so I just conservatively said 2 AH. I could match 6 of them up as closely as possible but I don't think I have 6 of exactly the same kind anymore lol.

    I will probably use this amp most of the time with a good 19.5v laptop supply, and buy or build a hefty 24v DC supply like you mentioned, I was just kind of toying with the idea of making it mobile, but in the end it might be better just to make something like a Sprite with just a simple 2 ch amp for mobile use, and hey, what's more fun that building more stuff.

    Leave a comment:


  • Millstonemike
    replied
    Originally posted by da_burl View Post
    HI Mike:

    I don't post much (read not at all lol) but I do read a lot. I want to thank you for the work you put on this and other threads, this is really going to help.

    I purchased this board (it is not even here yet may be a few more weeks )

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/TPA3116D2-2...53.m2749.l2649


    The only thing different about it is the description very specifically states it has a subwoofer volume pot, and a hi-pass subwoofer frequency adjustment.

    Three knob from left to right:
    1.Stereo sound volume.
    2.Subwoofer frequency regulation.
    3.The subwoofer volume

    3, bass cutoff frequency independent regulation 80HZ-500HZ adjustable
    4, independently adjustable subwoofer gain


    I looked at quite a few of these similar amps on fleabay and stumbled across this one and said it was worth a shot.

    The input stages around the pots look very similar to the one you show except right now I can't verify the values.

    If I'm lucky, the subwoofer volume and freq. adj. will work, and I plan on trying to change the high pass section for the L-R to around 100-150 hz F3, to go with some Aurasound NS3's 4 ohm and a Voxel sub.
    The NS3's are in a ~3 litre sealed box, not the Sprite vented configuration but I do plan on trying Paul's filter circuit. Taking a little different spin on the source, a Raspberry PI with I2S DAC hat with analogs out. at home running Moode or LMS/Squeezelite off my LAN library, on the "road" a 64G USB flash drive loaded up with lossy tuneage.

    Right now they will be all separate but if all this works I may make a "carrier" for them to take places, not exactly a sprite but just a frame/box to protect the speakers and hold them together for carrying then I would "deploy" them on site (which is usually my friend's boat or a picnic table at a campground or my tailgate lol) The satellites and Voxel are the same depth it turned out, but not the same height. Guess I would have a 4th box for the guts of the thing.

    Have you ever tried 18560 batteries? I am also a vaper and have quite a few lying around. When they are fully charged they are 4.2V most of them are at least 2 AH so 5 or 6 in series would give me almost 21v or 25v. I would just put them in some plastic holders, charge them up on my AC charger and take them with me, maybe add a built-in charger later. (Yes I'm fully aware of the safety precautions of these but in this application we're not asking them to put at 20-25 amps so I think I can mix and match them fairly safely even in series, I will have a fire extinguisher handy lol)

    I did catch what you said about the descriptions sometimes not being 100% accurate, and sometimes not even receiving the same amp lol.

    Well thanks again for this great post. I'll update in a few weeks.
    A quick reply for now ...

    I'll take any bet that the sub frequency adjustment pot is really sub volume pot. The basic design of that board has a fixed LP circa 107 Hz (if the parts were populated correctly). The three pots are: Sub volume, L-R volume and overall volume. The sub/L-R vol pots can be used to tailor the sub volume vis-a-vis the L-R volume.

    Also, I'd advise to read up on Li-Ion cells (18560) batteries. You cannot just charge them with an AC adapter. They need need charge current management and cell protection (over/under voltage, max current, etc.) lest they catch fire. Remember those news reports of the hover boards catching fire. I have a 6S Li-Ion battery pack with a computer charger that manages each cell during charging. And since this is a stationary system, why not just use a 24 V DC, 5 A "Brick" AC PS?

    Leave a comment:


  • da_burl
    replied
    HI Mike:

    I don't post much (read not at all lol) but I do read a lot. I want to thank you for the work you put on this and other threads, this is really going to help.

    I purchased this board (it is not even here yet may be a few more weeks )

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/TPA3116D2-2...53.m2749.l2649


    The only thing different about it is the description very specifically states it has a subwoofer volume pot, and a hi-pass subwoofer frequency adjustment.

    Three knob from left to right:
    1.Stereo sound volume.
    2.Subwoofer frequency regulation.
    3.The subwoofer volume

    3, bass cutoff frequency independent regulation 80HZ-500HZ adjustable
    4, independently adjustable subwoofer gain


    I looked at quite a few of these similar amps on fleabay and stumbled across this one and said it was worth a shot.

    The input stages around the pots look very similar to the one you show except right now I can't verify the values.

    If I'm lucky, the subwoofer volume and freq. adj. will work, and I plan on trying to change the high pass section for the L-R to around 100-150 hz F3, to go with some Aurasound NS3's 4 ohm and a Voxel sub.
    The NS3's are in a ~3 litre sealed box, not the Sprite vented configuration but I do plan on trying Paul's filter circuit. Taking a little different spin on the source, a Raspberry PI with I2S DAC hat with analogs out. at home running Moode or LMS/Squeezelite off my LAN library, on the "road" a 64G USB flash drive loaded up with lossy tuneage.

    Right now they will be all separate but if all this works I may make a "carrier" for them to take places, not exactly a sprite but just a frame/box to protect the speakers and hold them together for carrying then I would "deploy" them on site (which is usually my friend's boat or a picnic table at a campground or my tailgate lol) The satellites and Voxel are the same depth it turned out, but not the same height. Guess I would have a 4th box for the guts of the thing.

    Have you ever tried 18560 batteries? I am also a vaper and have quite a few lying around. When they are fully charged they are 4.2V most of them are at least 2 AH so 5 or 6 in series would give me almost 21v or 25v. I would just put them in some plastic holders, charge them up on my AC charger and take them with me, maybe add a built-in charger later. (Yes I'm fully aware of the safety precautions of these but in this application we're not asking them to put at 20-25 amps so I think I can mix and match them fairly safely even in series, I will have a fire extinguisher handy lol)

    I did catch what you said about the descriptions sometimes not being 100% accurate, and sometimes not even receiving the same amp lol.

    Well thanks again for this great post. I'll update in a few weeks.

    Leave a comment:


  • DuraMorte
    replied
    Originally posted by Millstonemike View Post



    I'm not sure what your physical requirements (in wall, etc.). There may be much better options than marine coaxes. Most decent amps will work, but the speakers are most important.

    In-wall was the plan for the coaxes, with the subwoofer mounted into the towel cabinet, inside which I would build a sealed compartment.

    I hate to clog up your thread with this stuff; I'll start a topic. Thanks again for the help!

    Leave a comment:


  • Millstonemike
    replied
    Originally posted by DuraMorte View Post


    Right on. Maybe the context will help.

    I'm trying to design a bathroom sound system so my wife can have tunes in the shower. I know that may sound crazy, but she likes it, and I like her to be happy, so I'm trying to make it happen.

    I also overengineer everything I DIY, so it may seem like overkill, but I want to get power to a pair of small (probably 4" or 5 1/4") marine coaxes and a marine subwoofer, for the best sounding shower stall ever.

    Thus, the 2.1 board. I figured it would be a perfect use case, and easy to wire up and get working.

    But, if there's no reason to go with a 2.1 board for anything but battery power, I'll start looking more into the amp + DSP avenue.

    Thanks for your help!


    I'm not sure what your physical requirements (in wall, etc.). There may be much better options than marine coaxes. Most decent amps will work, but the speakers are most important.

    Leave a comment:


  • Millstonemike
    replied
    Originally posted by DuraMorte View Post


    Right on. Maybe the context will help.

    I'm trying to design a bathroom sound system so my wife can have tunes in the shower. I know that may sound crazy, but she likes it, and I like her to be happy, so I'm trying to make it happen.

    I also overengineer everything I DIY, so it may seem like overkill, but I want to get power to a pair of small (probably 4" or 5 1/4") marine coaxes and a marine subwoofer, for the best sounding shower stall ever.

    Thus, the 2.1 board. I figured it would be a perfect use case, and easy to wire up and get working.

    But, if there's no reason to go with a 2.1 board for anything but battery power, I'll start looking more into the amp + DSP avenue.

    Thanks for your help!


    I'm not sure what your physical requirements (in wall, etc.). There may be much better options than marine coaxes. Most decent amps will work, but the speakers are most important.

    Leave a comment:


  • DuraMorte
    replied
    Originally posted by Millstonemike View Post
    There are several boards with a similar circuit design for the signal. The board you show has three large PS bypass caps instead of one. The design is the same but the component values can be different. On that board, you'll still see the sub LP circuit as identical but, perhaps with different values. If you have a DVM, you can measure the specific resistors and then the LP cap replacement can be easily calculated. You can also verify the caps for the low freq bass improvement and L-R HP improvement as both these cap pairs are connected to their respective pots.

    Having said that, you always be in good shape with a DSP.

    Where this type of board has no equal is a 2.1 portable on batteries with significant power out - it's 90% efficient.

    Right on. Maybe the context will help.

    I'm trying to design a bathroom sound system so my wife can have tunes in the shower. I know that may sound crazy, but she likes it, and I like her to be happy, so I'm trying to make it happen.

    I also overengineer everything I DIY, so it may seem like overkill, but I want to get power to a pair of small (probably 4" or 5 1/4") marine coaxes and a marine subwoofer, for the best sounding shower stall ever.

    Thus, the 2.1 board. I figured it would be a perfect use case, and easy to wire up and get working.

    But, if there's no reason to go with a 2.1 board for anything but battery power, I'll start looking more into the amp + DSP avenue.

    Thanks for your help!

    Leave a comment:


  • Millstonemike
    replied
    Originally posted by DuraMorte View Post
    Hi all. New to TechTalk. I have a few questions about the mods described in the original post.

    Firstly, I am trying to find the exact board Millstonemike bought to perform the mods on. Visually, the attached board appears correct. Am I right?

    Secondly, should the board I receive be different, how can I verify which parts to replace to achieve the 2.0 channel high-pass, and .1 channel bandpass?

    Lastly, is it worth the money to buy a 2.1 amplifier, and perform these mods, or should I just get a pair of 2 channel amps and a cheap DSP?

    Thanks for any advice.
    There are several boards with a similar circuit design for the signal. The board you show has three large PS bypass caps instead of one. The design is the same but the component values can be different. On that board, you'll still see the sub LP circuit as identical but, perhaps with different values. If you have a DVM, you can measure the specific resistors and then the LP cap replacement can be easily calculated. You can also verify the caps for the low freq bass improvement and L-R HP improvement as both these cap pairs are connected to their respective pots.

    Having said that, you always be in good shape with a DSP.

    Where this type of board has no equal is a 2.1 portable on batteries with significant power out - it's 90% efficient.

    Leave a comment:


  • DuraMorte
    replied
    Hi all. New to TechTalk. I have a few questions about the mods described in the original post.

    Firstly, I am trying to find the exact board Millstonemike bought to perform the mods on. Visually, the attached board appears correct. Am I right?

    Secondly, should the board I receive be different, how can I verify which parts to replace to achieve the 2.0 channel high-pass, and .1 channel bandpass?

    Lastly, is it worth the money to buy a 2.1 amplifier, and perform these mods, or should I just get a pair of 2 channel amps and a cheap DSP?

    Thanks for any advice.
    New 50W x2+100W TPA3116 NE5532 2.1 HIFI Digital Subwoofer Amplifier Board in Business & Industrial, Electrical & Test Equipment, Other Electrical & Test Equip. | eBay

    Leave a comment:


  • Millstonemike
    replied
    Originally posted by Brian Steele View Post

    Would love to hear more about that boombox .

    That kinda' opens Pandora's Box ...

    Leave a comment:


  • Millstonemike
    replied
    Originally posted by Mike220 View Post
    I just bought the black lepai 2.1 amp from PE, it comes with a 3a power supply but it calls for a 5a power supply on the back of the amp. Maybe i overlooked its usefullness when purchasing. I kind of assumed if you set the subwoofer crossover to say 120hz i thought it would roll of the HP side of the amp there as well. I probably should have researched more about it but it was cheap enough to buy and check it out. Ill hopefully get getting my boombox project wrapped up in a week or two.
    I take it you bought the LP-168HA. If your using 8 ohm drivers, the 3A PS will do fine. If all the drivers are 4 ohm, then you may have an issue. I suggest you try it with the existing PS. If you have an issue, there's lots of 12v 5A PSs on ebay for cheap (look for 12v LED lighting supplies).

    These small amps with a sub LP do NOT incorporate a corresponding HP on the L-R channel. My best suggestion is to use a capacitor in series with the L-R drivers to create a 1st order HP filter for them. We would need to know more about your drivers and sub to make suggestions.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike220
    replied
    I just bought the black lepai 2.1 amp from PE, it comes with a 3a power supply but it calls for a 5a power supply on the back of the amp. Maybe i overlooked its usefullness when purchasing. I kind of assumed if you set the subwoofer crossover to say 120hz i thought it would roll of the HP side of the amp there as well. I probably should have researched more about it but it was cheap enough to buy and check it out. Ill hopefully get getting my boombox project wrapped up in a week or two.

    Leave a comment:


  • Brian Steele
    replied
    Originally posted by Millstonemike View Post
    I've discussed this amp before in posts but here is it is all in one place.

    I used this dual chip, 2x50w & 1x100W amp in a 2.1 boombox build. I feed it with 26v or 25v (SLA-AGMS versus LiPos) and run it hard on the beach. One full season without any issues running 2x35W and 70w (140w total).
    Would love to hear more about that boombox .


    Leave a comment:

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