Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Design Team Build: The Boomsticks - 2.5 way tower with 4 x RS100-8 and ND25F

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    Originally posted by Wolf View Post
    What did you call those again, Richard? I can't remember the name...
    Wolf
    I think he called them "The Thundersticks"

    R = h/(2*pi*m*c) and don't you forget it! || Periodic Table as redrawn by Marshall Freerks and Ignatius Schumacher || King Crimson Radio
    Byzantium Project & Build Thread || MiniByzy Build Thread || 3 x Peerless 850439 HDS 3-way || 8" 2-way - RS28A/B&C8BG51

    95% of Climate Models Agree: The Observations Must be Wrong
    "Gravitational systems are the ashes of prior electrical systems.". - Hannes Alfven, Nobel Laureate, Plasma physicist.

    Comment


    • #32
      Originally posted by Navy Guy
      "Yeah. All right, you primitive screwheads, listen up. See this? This...is my BOOMSTICK! It's a 4" quad woofer tower, S-Mart's top-of-the-line. You can find this in the electronics department. That's right, this sweet baby was made in Ann Arbor, Michigan. Retails for about $299.95. It's got a MDF stock, brushed aluminum and a hair trigger. That's right. Shop Smart. Shop S-Mart. YA GOT THAT!?"[/I] These will be a high WAF tower using 4 x RS100-8 and one ND25 per side. They are only 5.5" wide and at 40" tall, come in right around 19L net internal volume. They have a look of small lifestyle systems but should hit mid 40s and have decent output with the 4 drivers. I was originally planning on cutting these when I went home for Christmas in my dad's woodshed, but some unforeseen issues came up and we couldn't make it back home. Instead, the parents came up here. So I ended up sketching these up and getting the cabinets CNC'd by Kevin K. They'd be easy enough with basic tools to complete, with the exception of the aluminum ring. I added that because I was thinking about swapping out the ND25 with the Morel CAT 408 (been wanting to try it) at a later date and an MDF ring would have been too thin, but it also looks cool. Anyway, here is the 3D model of what they will look like when finished. I've already got them glued up. I tried using som flex seal to deaden the cabinet walls, but don't think I would go that way again. Didn't seem to do much and is kind of expensive. The pictures don't show the whole thing together, but I've been filling and priming for paint already. I put the Rockstar can in the picture to try and give a sense of size. These appear much smaller in person than the pictures seem to indicate. When I showed my wife, her response was "these might be keepers. They are nice and unobtrusive!"
      I use Acry-Tech in the gallon bucket. Instructions talk about a sprayer, but I use a foam brush and paint the insides. It helps deaden the enclosure, and it looks finished inside. A gallon goes a long way (depending on how thick) and I think it makes a big difference. A friend had some left over truck bed liner and painted the inside and outside of some back seat woofers, looked good! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
      RussellK

      Comment


      • #33
        A lot of smaller woofers model well below tuning, one of the reasons so many 3-4" designs can be cranked and their 5-7" counterparts fall apart. Trade-off is a (relatively) large cabinet. Quite a few of them even have elevated response around tuning, to boot.

        http://projectgallery.parts-express....ized/tiny-tym/

        Use an EBS with a small woofer with a particular set of parameters and it can be pretty impressive what is possible.
        Don't listen to me - I have not sold any $150,000 speakers.

        Comment


        • #34
          Originally posted by Wolf View Post
          What did you call those again, Richard? I can't remember the name...
          Wolf
          I presented them at DIY Iowa as the Thunderstix. Still my brother's primary speakers.

          Comment


          • #35
            Originally posted by turn2 View Post

            I presented them at DIY Iowa as the Thunderstix. Still my brother's primary speakers.
            I searched for the name to see if anyone else had used it and could find anything. Glad it wasn't boomsticks! I hate coming up with names.
            -Kerry

            Comment


            • #36
              Got one of them prepped for paint today. BIN 1-2-3 primer to seal the MDF. It was much harder to sand than I remember from the last time I used it. I had to use 2 full sheets of 220 grit sandpaper to get one cabinet really smooth and decided to stop at that for today. The other one is primed but not sanded yet.
              -Kerry

              Comment


              • #37
                As I get older, I appreciate my Dewalt ROS more every time I take on a big sanding job.

                OT: I thought you were in a rental in Ann Arbor - that's a pretty nice shop!

                I think I hear a difference - wow, it's amazing!" Ethan Winer: audio myths
                "As God is my witness I'll never be without a good pair of speakers!" Scarlett O'Hara

                High value, high quality RS150/TB28-537SH bookshelf - TARGAS NLA!
                SB13/Vifa BC25SC06 MTM DCR Galeons-SB13-MTM
                My Voxel min sub Yet-another-Voxel-build

                Tangband W6-sub

                Comment


                • #38
                  Originally posted by donradick
                  As I get older, I appreciate my Dewalt ROS more every time I take on a big sanding job. OT: I thought you were in a rental in Ann Arbor - that's a pretty nice shop!
                  I am, but we have an unfinished basement.
                  -Kerry

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    makes the best kind of shop, IMO

                    I think I hear a difference - wow, it's amazing!" Ethan Winer: audio myths
                    "As God is my witness I'll never be without a good pair of speakers!" Scarlett O'Hara

                    High value, high quality RS150/TB28-537SH bookshelf - TARGAS NLA!
                    SB13/Vifa BC25SC06 MTM DCR Galeons-SB13-MTM
                    My Voxel min sub Yet-another-Voxel-build

                    Tangband W6-sub

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      By the way, I didn't mention this before, but Kevin came out with an awesome idea to make cabinet assembly a snap with mitered edges to hide the seams.
                      -Kerry

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Originally posted by Navy Guy View Post
                        By the way, I didn't mention this before, but Kevin came out with an awesome idea to make cabinet assembly a snap with mitered edges to hide the seams.
                        Very nice. Love the project.

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          So I'm going to try something a little different on the paint on this one. Not sure how it will turn out but I'm buying the paint to test some pieces before a full spray. Dupli-color makes a paint called Metalcast. It's designed to go over polished metal surfaces to make it look anodized, but they have a base coat layer that is like a metallic silver if you are putting on something else. I'm looking at doing red or orange, or maybe a combination of both. Here is a piece I found on the interenet someone else did using the base coat. Orange on the right and red on the left. It ends up giving the look of a candy coat but out of a spray can. We'll see how it goes.

                          -Kerry

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            I've used Metalcast several times, and It's good stuff!
                            Wolf
                            "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                            "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                            "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                            "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                            *InDIYana event website*

                            Photobucket pages:
                            https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker

                            My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
                            http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Originally posted by Wolf
                              I've used Metalcast several times, and It's good stuff! Wolf
                              Did you use the base coat or was it on bare metal? Got any pics of how it turned out?
                              -Kerry

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                I would give you photo examples if photobucket was cooperating, BUT- you might have better luck tomorrow....

                                At my sig, projects listed on the left. Combinations listed below...

                                Krylon hammered black under red for my Sophomores. The black here is more of a charcoal tone. This came out blood-red, and one of my favorite finishes.
                                Krylon hammered silver under blue for the Tesseracts. Metallic blue for sure here.
                                Rustoleum hammered black under purple for the Xenoliths. The black is actually black for this one. This makes a rich dark purple.

                                You don't have to use the recommended basecoat, as the Metalcast colors lay on most any solid color underneath. The MC colors are translucent, so they take on the color tone of the color below. I've also used the Krylon Metal X red and blue, and even though they are made by the same parent company, the Duplicolor works better.

                                I recommend only using 2 coats of the metalcast products for coverage. If you start to lay it on thicker, it'll develop a bit of haze and the transparency will become a bit milky. I recommend using spray polycrylic or any acrylic clear over top to protect it. I would do a sample piece first to know how you want to apply it.

                                Do not use lacquer clear-coat if you don't want the finish to change. I applied the red on plexiglass once to make it a transparent red panel. I hit that with Minwax clear gloss lacquer to finish it, and it changed the entire surface to look very close to that of stained glass. I don't know if the effect would be different on a different substrate.
                                These panels were used on the rear of the '2i' project as a xover installation door. Photos are also in the bucket.

                                Hope this helps,
                                Wolf
                                "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                                "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                                "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                                "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                                *InDIYana event website*

                                Photobucket pages:
                                https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker

                                My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
                                http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X