All peerless 3way

[PWR RYD]

U571 is a great HT demo movie!

[rpb]

rpb in my other thread you mentioned the 6.5 hds vs the sds at half the price. Is the hds that much better? Any insight is really appreciated.

I like the thicker, stiffer basket of the HDS. That alone makes them worth more to me. I have not heard the $20 Peerless. I'd ask MattP more about it.

The Dayton RS series also uses a nice basket. The drivers look nice, and most probably sound nice as well. If you are going to be pushing the speakers loud, then bigger is better. A 6.5" would be enough for me, but two 6.5" woofers would on occasion be just a little bit better. The basic woofer may have slightly higher distortion than the RS, or HDS. This might be important for music, but maybe less so for car crashes, gun blasts, monster trucks, etc.

One of my demo movies is U571. I recently watched part of it without a sub. Speakers set to large. It still sounds fine, but it doesn't knock you out of the chair during the explosions. In the dark, I can't see how much excursion is. I need to watch again while closely watching the midbasses to make sure I'm not going to damage them. I'm not worried at all about the 10 in the center. The 6.5s are moving twice as much. Last time I watched, they were moving maybe .125" peak to peak. I need to make sure that another 3 dB of spl is not too much.

[manu et deo]

rpb in my other thread you mentioned the 6.5 hds vs the sds at half the price. Is the hds that much better? Any insight is really appreciated.

[johnnyrichards]

.5 alignment is contra-indicated in an in-wall setup.

[rpb]

For TV duties, either would be fine. I'd keep the tweeter at ear level. If you want action movies to be "punchy", a 3 way with lots of cone area helps. My 6.5" L&R 2-ways sound like the center is the source of sounds if you are sitting in the sweet spot. Actually, the sound seems to be coming off the screen. The speakers are 8' apart, and just over 8' from my seat.. If you sit 4' to the side, they sound just like speakers, and it's not great. That's why I built a center. My center is a 10" 3-way. It sounds just a little more visceral, but tonally identical. A 3-way can cost more than a 2-way. I had a leftover 10" woofer, and several mid basses that were ideal. If I had to buy all these, I might have gone 2-way instead. I have lots of x-over parts too.

[manu et deo]

So I have decided to go with the XT25TG tweeter but I'm unsure about going 2 way with a 6.5 or go all the way with a 3.5 full range in a three way. Any ideas?

[manu et deo]

johnnyrichards thank you for your detailed reply.

[johnnyrichards]

Would you say the same if I was to double the mids and woofers? And if you're not referring to these may I ask which ones? Is the XO3W-375/3K one you might be referring too?

In all fairness, I do not have the time to crunch the simulation for you - but yes, that XO would probably work ~ok. The coils on the low pass sections of a pre-built are usually not large enough for 8 ohm loads, so going to a 4 ohm load will help with that.

I have the 830657 woofer, the TC9FD, and the same tweeter sitting here. It will be some time before I get around to doing anything with them, however.

Now, the only reason I suspect you would end up with decent results is these drivers all exhibit good linearity across their entire range and by going in-wall you avoid a lot of the linear distortion introduced by cabinets. Those frequency irregularities are what prompts a lot of the decisions made during a crossover design process. Even so, expect to do considerable experimentation and listening with different values of L-Pad on the tweeters and mids, along with reversing the polarity of the mid and or mid/tweeter.

[johnnyrichards]

Would you say the same if I was to double the mids and woofers? And if you're not referring to these may I ask which ones? Is the XO3W-375/3K one you might be referring too?

In all fairness, I do not have the time to crunch the simulation for you - but yes, that XO would probably work ~ok. The coils on the low pass sections of a pre-built are usually not large enough for 8 ohm loads, so going to a 4 ohm load will help with that.

I have the 830657 woofer, the TC9FD, and the same tweeter sitting here. It will be some time before I get around to doing anything with them, however.

Now, the only reason I suspect you would end up with decent results is these drivers all exhibit good linearity across their entire range and by going in-wall you avoid a lot of the linear distortion introduced by cabinets. Those frequency irregularities are what prompts a lot of the decisions made during a crossover design process. Even so, expect to do considerable experimentation and listening with different values of L-Pad on the tweeters and mids, along with reversing the polarity of the mid and or mid/tweeter.

[manu et deo]

PIA is also used. Believe me you are speaking to an expert!

As am I, according to my mom and wife I inherited it.

[manu et deo]

I have a very similar set of drivers on-hand that would make a nice, compact 3-way. Not sure if I will get anywhere on them - but for in-wall usage, these might be the rare driver combo that can utilize an off-the-shelf + some mid and tweeter padding to taste.

Would you say the same if I was to double the mids and woofers? And if you're not referring to these may I ask which ones? Is the XO3W-375/3K one you might be referring too?

[johnnyrichards]

I have a very similar set of drivers on-hand that would make a nice, compact 3-way. Not sure if I will get anywhere on them - but for in-wall usage, these might be the rare driver combo that can utilize an off-the-shelf + some mid and tweeter padding to taste.

[thekorvers]

I think you mean PITA

PIA is also used. Believe me you are speaking to an expert!

[manu et deo]

I know what PIA means (having been called that by my wife a few times), but TIA? Transient Ischemic Attack?

I think you mean PITA

[make_some_noise]

Thanks in Advance I believe.