Looking for 3/4" MDF overnight sensation cutlist (with and without rabbets)

[krawa]

I'd like to try an Overnight sensations from 3/4" MDF but (so far) have not found any cutlists for this material. It shouldn't be hard to work it out from paul's exterior dimensions and after some back of the envelope calculation:

Assuming butt-joints:
top and Bottoms: 8.25" x 4.5"
sides: 8.25" x 9.5"
baffle: 9.5" x 6"
rear: 4.5" x 8"


I would prefer to use rabbet joints, though. What's the best way to account for these? (I'm no woodworker)

If I rabbet the side pieces, I would need to add (2 x rabbet depth)" to the top and bottom panel widths. What about rabbeting the front and back? Are these typically left as butt joints? Is it a good idea to route this dimension as well so it the baffle and rear can be "set" in the speaker box?

For the rear, I originally planned to glue braces 0.75" from the rear of the case, so rear panel could be cut to the inside dimension, slide in, and rest directly on the braces for the proper depth. However, that would put a lot of faith on good measurements and proper clamping.

This is my first wood-working project, so if anyone knows of any detailed cabinet build threads, please throw them my way. If you know of a 3/4" MDF flatpack, I'd also be interested in knowing that too!

[williamrschneider]

Here's a cut plan that I used this past summer, but does NOT include the baffles. I made them separately from hardwood.

[krawa]

Thanks, Bill! Exactly what I was looking for

and just to make sure I understand what I seeing:

- The spaces between the boards correspond to the saw width (i.e. just rip the boards back to back to back....)
- for reducing the rear panel height, the two MDF shims account for the top and bottom panel width so that the resulting cut will be true to the actual material thicknesses.



I've considered a hardwood baffle but was worried about the expansion/contraction warnings I've read. I know this is more of a caution for the entire cabinet construction, but how much of an issue is this for the baffle? I'll look through your post history to see if I can find a writeup.

[Gordy]

This may help. The flat pack is 1/2 baltic birch but is more than adequate for your needs.

https://www.parts-express.com/overni...-pair--300-706

[williamrschneider]

Krawa,

The spaces shown are just the kerfs. I enlarged them in the diagram so that they'd show.

I didn't glue on the front hardwood baffles to prevent splitting. They were mounted using screws in the corners. They went into corner blocks inside the box.

[Modmark]

just wondering, what equipment do you own? Do you have a router, table, miter or circular saw?

If you don't have a minimal shop, I suggest the flat pack and concentrate your efforts on finishing for your first project. Cabinet making require more than "faith on good measurements ", it requires accurate cuts.

You could concentrate your efforts on learning how to veneer and flat pack cabinet.

[krawa]

This seems like the wisest course of action the more I think about it. I don't own any tools, so that complicates things, and I'd rather have a gentle and successful introduction to speaker building than get overwhelmed with details.

[Modmark]

Yep, you may need some tools....

For a flat pack cabinet, you will need some clamps. Surprising here, Harbor Freight is the best place for bar clamps , quite cheap and they work very well. A 24" clamp (Item#96213) cost $5.99.

Couple more suggestions, use Titebound (2 or 3) glue and ALWAYS use shellac based Bin for your primer. Bin is by far the best, you can buy spray cans.

Note: with flat packs, you can build a better speakers. Worst case, your speakers look like crap but still sound great!

[krawa]

Thanks for the heads up! How many clamps would you recommend for gluing up a single cabinet?

[Whitneyville1]

I would purchase at least 2 24" clamps and 4 12" clamps. 4 24" clamps would be worth the money. I prefer the clamps with the screw hand clamps, as they will apply nearly double the pressure, but the "squeezers" will work.