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  • #31
    I have no idea how I missed this thread until now. Tom... those are looking great! I'm excited to watch this one come along!
    Voxel Down Firing with Dayton SA70
    Translam Subwoofers - The Jedi Mind Tricks
    The Super Bees - Garage 2 way
    SevenSixTwo - InDIYana 2018 Coax
    The Defiants - InDIYana 2019 "Bare Minimum" Build

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    • #32
      Originally posted by dcibel View Post
      FWIW I've always gone with Tung Oil over BLO as I've read that BLO turns yellow with age, while Tung Oil will hold its colour over time. I've had great success with Circa1850 Tung Oil which isn't 100% pure variety, it has something else in it to keep drying time between coats down to 24hrs.
      In my limited experience in using both tung and linseed oil, I have to agree that the tung oil finish is my favorite of the two. I'll have to try the Circa stuff at some point. Thanks for mentioning it because I get a bit weary of building coats of oil and end up taking two weeks to finally be able to perform final assembly. I just wanna hear my speakers!

      shawn
      My favorite woofer is a Labrador retriever.

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      • #33
        Originally posted by shawn_a View Post

        In my limited experience in using both tung and linseed oil, I have to agree that the tung oil finish is my favorite of the two. I'll have to try the Circa stuff at some point. Thanks for mentioning it because I get a bit weary of building coats of oil and end up taking two weeks to finally be able to perform final assembly. I just wanna hear my speakers!

        shawn
        I just used the Circa stuff because its available locally and inexpensive. What I don't recommend is Minwax "Tung Oil Finish" which is just a wiping varnish. I did not like it at all compared to the Circa1850 product.

        I'm fairly certain the Circa1850 product is thinned Tung Oil so it dries faster. My process to success was to basically follow the instructions on the can. First coat saturate the wood in it, wait 10-15 mins for it to soak in, then add some more. Rub it in with 0000 steel wool. Wait 10-15 min again then wipe off any excess. I wait 2 days on the first coat since you put so much on in the first coat. 2nd coat again just rub it in vigorously with 0000 steel wool. Wait 10-15min then gently wipe off any excess that hasn't soaked in. Wipe thoroughly at this step to get off all the steel wool dust. Wait 24hrs. 3rd and 4th coats I don't use the steel wool, just wipe it on with a rag, these will be fairly light coats. You should now have a nice natural finish.

        I am told that if you want to top coat the oil finish for added protection or gloss, that you should wait at least a week, maybe 2 before doing that to make sure that the Tung Oil has completely cured.
        "I just use off the shelf textbook filters designed for a resistor of 8 ohms with
        exactly a Fc 3K for both drivers, anybody can do it." -Xmax

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        • #34
          Movin' along...

          I used my home-made trimming tool to get the HDF on the top and lower front angle pieces flush, now I'm gluing on the front piece of 1/8" HDF on the second cabinet.







          I sanded the b*u*t*t ends of the MDF flush several times over the past few weeks. I'm hopeful that between that, and the HDF 'veneer,' there won't be any major issues with the joints showing through.

          By the weekend I hope to have these trimmed up and ready to do driver recesses. I still have to trim up the base and figure out a few things, but I don't forsee any big issues. Of course, I usually don't, until I do.

          I'm sorry... this is kind of like watching a movie one frame at a time. Man, have I slowed down in my middle age!

          TomZ
          Zarbo Audio Projects Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEZ...aFQSTl6NdOwgxQ * 320-641 Amp Review Youtube: https://youtu.be/ugjfcI5p6m0 *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
          *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF

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          • #35
            A few pics to add:





            Basically, I just trimmed the 1/8" HDF on the front flush and gave the whole box another sanding to sure up the edges. I was not going to worry about the back and it's seams, but upon further reconsideration, I've reconsidered. I might as well get this as perfect as I can.... so, I'll have to wait on some 1/16" Maple sacrificial veneer to come in Tuesday to veneer the back, then I can start putting the pretty stuff on. Also made up bases and transition pieces.

            Right now I'm planning the steps to handle the black stripe and transition pieces in the front. Some things will be painted texture black, others dyed black, and still other pieces both black and veneer, so I need to write down some procedures or else I'll goof it all up!

            Yeah, not much to show for today, but I've also been working on accessorizing my newly acquired hybrid bike. Lights-fore and aft, drinks, speedometer, mirrors, etc. Lots of fun fiddling on that. Plus the wife is away for a few days so I just rolled the bike from the garage into the living room and had been working on it there. Aahhhhhh, the single life!

            This thing weighs about half of what my previous 10 sp. bike weighed from childhood/adulthood. She's got 24 speeds, dual hydraulic disc brakes, front suspension, and I can take her on dirt trails if I want.....Plus, this thing comes in XL so it actually fits me!



            TomZ
            Zarbo Audio Projects Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEZ...aFQSTl6NdOwgxQ * 320-641 Amp Review Youtube: https://youtu.be/ugjfcI5p6m0 *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
            *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF

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            • #36
              I turned a corner today... got the driver recesses done. My least favorite part of building speakers...





              Boy, those Esoteric woofers sure do look nice. Their frames are just a smidge under 6" wide, so the 6" setting on the Jasper jig works perfectly. The tweets needed 4 3/16" to fit, so there's a bit of 'wiggle room' on those. I could have used the 4 1/8" setting, but I hate sanding stuff like that, it never works as perfectly as I want it to.

              Anyway, maybe tomorrow I can get the base/crossover assembly panel figured out and start getting these ready for veneer.

              Thanks for looking,
              TomZ
              Zarbo Audio Projects Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEZ...aFQSTl6NdOwgxQ * 320-641 Amp Review Youtube: https://youtu.be/ugjfcI5p6m0 *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
              *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF

              Comment


              • #37
                Originally posted by Wolf View Post
                How about 'Svellere'? Svelte is past participle for svellere. Slender, refined, delicate are synonyms. Should be apt adjectives if you ask me.

                Later,
                Wolf
                ​Since it's a word I've never seen or heard of before, I looked it up. Svellere is an Italian word that means to Uproot or Eradicate.

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by tomzarbo View Post
                  My working name is "The ES-3's" for "Esoteric, Project #3" but that just plain sucks, I know.

                  More to come...

                  TomZ
                  Maybe name them Covfefes!

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                  • #39
                    I can't believe you do all the routing before veneering. That'd freak me out having to try to cut the veneer exactly to the flush cut. Otherwise, looking good dude!
                    A mains
                    The Ventures
                    Open Invit8tions
                    RSR
                    Sound Troopers
                    Acorns
                    442
                    DGBG's
                    The Monuments

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by 6thplanet View Post
                      I can't believe you do all the routing before veneering. That'd freak me out having to try to cut the veneer exactly to the flush cut. Otherwise, looking good dude!
                      I get nervous one way or the other when it comes to veneer and routed baffle recesses. I had a good experience veneering over my precut baffles on my swope towers. I made sure to get the heatlock glue well established at the lip of the driver recess, then used a dado flush trim bit from whiteside to flush cut the excess veneer. Worked very well, although I could just as easily see a router bit tearing out a bit of veneer in cases of bad luck! This choice (route before or after veneer) has been on my mind lately too since I'm close to that on my subwoofer project!

                      Tom, those things look great! I'm excited to see more!
                      Voxel Down Firing with Dayton SA70
                      Translam Subwoofers - The Jedi Mind Tricks
                      The Super Bees - Garage 2 way
                      SevenSixTwo - InDIYana 2018 Coax
                      The Defiants - InDIYana 2019 "Bare Minimum" Build

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        I have done both before and after veneer and think I prefer routing the driver recesses after veneer is on. Just my experience thus far. Looking good Tom and Keith great work on the translam boxes.

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                        • #42
                          Yeah, I have some of the same feelings about veneering after doing the driver cut-outs that you guys do.

                          I think I prefer to do the cut-outs after the veneer is on, but in this case, time is running out in a hurry, plus I don't feel like I can fully finish the black transition pieces until I get the veneer on and in place to see how much material will be added. I could estimate... but.

                          I have several of the bits that Keith linked to... one lives permanently in one of my HFT trim routers so it's always ready to go. Easy to do and quick. Never had any tear-out yet... knock on my head. It's a straight cut, and not very aggressive, so it doesn't have the propensity to make a mess of the veneer.

                          One issue with doing the cut-outs before veneer is the fact that the recess has to be deep enough to allow the 'bearing' portion of the bit to be under the veneer. That usually means a thicker gasket on some drivers. With the woofers it's no problem usually, but the tweeter will need another gasket to 'shim' it to the correct thickness. No big deal really. I know you can grind the bottom of the bit for less 'bearing' material, but I'd rather not do that if possible. That bit is pretty small, and it doesn't have a lot of 'meat' where the cutter is. I find that I tend to apply more pressure with the larger 'two-handed' routers, so I'd recommend using a trim router and a light touch so as not to break it. You also have to be careful to not overdo the glue, or your driver opening could get a little 'bumpy.' It's usually nothing a little sandpaper won't cure, though.

                          I have another trim router that permanently holds a 5/8" flush trim bit for regular trimming of veneers.
                          I used to get an 'indent line' from the bearing pressing into the veneer when I used the larger routers and the standard 1/4" or even 1/2" bits. Now with the combination of the smaller, lighter router and the larger bit with more surface area on the bearing, I don't get those indent lines any more. No need to tape where the bearing rides with that setup.

                          If I had another month, I'd veneer first -- but I don't, so I'm doing it this way.

                          Thanks for the positive comments, guys.
                          TomZ
                          Zarbo Audio Projects Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEZ...aFQSTl6NdOwgxQ * 320-641 Amp Review Youtube: https://youtu.be/ugjfcI5p6m0 *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                          *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF

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                          • #43
                            This morning's work:



                            Got the driver holes laid out and drilled. Then I used the drum sander in my drill to notch out some round 'breathing room' curves in the openings where the screws are not.

                            I'm always alarmed at how 'flaky' and 'cardboardish' MDF is. Once you break through the dense, top layers, it's almost as if you can sand it with your fingernail...So, I'm trying this:



                            I've coated the driver recesses and inner openings with wood glue in hopes that it will 'firm up' the base material. I'm not sure if I've ever done this before, but I think I've seen some of you guys doing this, which I probably what made me think of it. I think it will help keep the surface from flaking off. Later today, I'm going to try and work on the base pieces, Lord willing.

                            I made a countdown calendar so I can see how many days are left before 'go time'.... we're leaving several days early to do some stuff in Kentucky... turning this MWAF event into a mini-vacation.

                            I am stunned to see that there are only 5 construction days left for me to finish these, including all veneer work. Then I have 4 days to apply poly and let dry... the remaining time is devoted to measuring/crossover work. Where did the time go?

                            TomZ

                            Zarbo Audio Projects Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEZ...aFQSTl6NdOwgxQ * 320-641 Amp Review Youtube: https://youtu.be/ugjfcI5p6m0 *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                            *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF

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                            • #44
                              Lookin' good Tom! I've used a 50/50 wood glue and water coating on cabinets before to seal up any exposed end-grain in the MDF. This probably fortified the cabinets a bit, but was mainly to keep the cabinets from soaking up boatloads of primer before establishing a good paint base. You should be fine with your 100% wood glue sizing (as the term for coatings like this goes... not sure why it's called "sizing" though) but just check that the surfaces didn't expand while they soaked up the glue.

                              Also, enjoy Kentucky! That's my home state! If you're heading through Lexington, check out some of the horse farms in the area, and the bourbon distilleries between Lexington, Bardstown, and Louisville. One of the state's great treasures!
                              Voxel Down Firing with Dayton SA70
                              Translam Subwoofers - The Jedi Mind Tricks
                              The Super Bees - Garage 2 way
                              SevenSixTwo - InDIYana 2018 Coax
                              The Defiants - InDIYana 2019 "Bare Minimum" Build

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                Thanks Keith

                                I was speaking with Roman last year (the host and organizer of NY DIY) and he showed me a 'higher grade' MDF type product that I bet wouldn't be nearly as 'soft' in the middle. It was nearly double the cost if I recall, but that's not a big issue really, considering we often put 'the best' stuff into our designs otherwise. I have not picked up any yet, but next time I load up on MDF, I should look into it.

                                I have to take a short video of how I do driver recesses. I just peel off the inner 'ring' of MDF between the first outer ring and the inner 'cut out' that I do with the jig saw. It's literally ASTOUNDING how weak MDF is in the middle sections and how easily it just comes apart.

                                I have a video ready to go on the use of the little "Irregular angle trimming tool" that I made a few years ago, just waiting for permission on the use of a picture to post that one up.

                                Hey, what are you doing? You should be working on your Jedi Super-Bass Foundation Busters! Times A-Ticking!

                                TomZ
                                Zarbo Audio Projects Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEZ...aFQSTl6NdOwgxQ * 320-641 Amp Review Youtube: https://youtu.be/ugjfcI5p6m0 *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                                *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF

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