Dayton CX150-8 Coaxial Project

[Wolf]

I don't think you understand the circuit layout. The battery (if used) (+) terminal is connected through a 1Mohm resistor to the node between the caps. The battery (-) terminal attaches at ground of the xover network. The voltage is only joined at the one side of each of the series capacitors' plates. The battery does not go across a capacitor as some on-line circuits show.

What Bill is doing, sans battery, is applying an 18VDC voltage to the caps' center node and the ground of the xover network. Upon removal, there is no resistance to rapidly discharge the voltage on the inner plates. It is therefore a long discharge time.

Later,
Wolf

[delton88]

You can try for high quality PCB Manufacturer if you need. I hope this can be helpful for you mate. Source: https://www.wellpcb.com/pcb/pcb-capability.html

[4thtry]

A little progress:

I installed the mid/woofer crossover at the base of the cabinet. Then I lined the cabinet and steel bars with 1/2" thick rigid fiberglass, cut from 2x4 foot fiberglass ceiling panels. I had to remove and re-locate a couple of my 1/4"x7"x1.5" steel bars because I discovered, using DATS V2, that I needed to keep the bars at least 3 inches away from any inductor, otherwise they increased the value a little bit.

The same thing applies to the small tweeter air-core inductor (see pic). I had to remove the steel bar on the midrange back wall entirely. The other steel bars are about 3.5 inches away.

[4thtry]

Time to replace my temporary baffles with solid walnut. Because I have never used a solid hardwood as a baffle, I decided to make them removable. If any cracking or checking develops down the road, I can simply remove and repair them as needed.

I used my temporary upper & lower baffles to layout and then rough cut the final baffles. Since I could only get 12" wide stock from my supplier, I found it necessary to glue a small extension piece along the bottom of each baffle to widen them out. I hand selected these extension pieces for a grain structure and color pattern designed to hide the seams. I can still see the seams because I know where they are located. But the casual observer may completely miss them (or so I hope).

After I flush trim and cut the driver holes, I will be sealing them with Watco Danish oil and finishing with Watco wipe-on poly. Based on my tests on leftover walnut stock, this should significantly deepen the color and pop the grain. Stay tuned.

[JavadS]

Looks great Bill!

[4thtry]

There will be a nameplate on the front of the speaker between the upper and lower baffle boards. Tentative name: "Asymmetrax". Suggestions? After I complete the walnut baffle boards, I plan to have a local CNC shop engrave a piece of contrasting hardwood to fit this space.

I'm getting close to the point where I need to get my order placed for the nameplate engraving process. Any suggestions for naming this speaker would be greatly appreciated. I am having difficulty coming up with a good name. My current plan is "Asymmetrax" which would be defined as: an asymmetrically curved loudspeaker using a "co-AX-ial" midrange/tweeter.

[Wolf]

Coarx (co-arcs)
Saint 2 Loupie
Half-pipes
Slippery Slopes
Itty bitty in the middy

Yeah- I'm having fun...
I'll be more serious later this evening.
Wolf

[dst]

CoWax
Quax
Kowaxial

[Wolf]

Hourglasses
You could also measure it like a woman and make it a number. 362436 for example.

I'll keep thinking,
Wolf

[4thtry]

Thanks for all the good name suggestions. Food for thought. I'm trying to come up with something that includes coaxial, curves, charge coupled, and maybe walnut in one word. The walnut baffles really started to pop with the finish applied. Will post a few pics shortly.

[4thtry]

Light walnut Danish oil; then several coats of semi-gloss clear. The drivers are sitting about 1/32" proud of the baffle boards, but this slight offset will disappear once I insert and tighten the mounting bolts.

Getting close to the finish line now.

[Paul K.]

Quite attractive, Bill.
Paul

[4thtry]

Quite attractive, Bill.
Paul

Thanks, Paul. I was really shocked at how the walnut grain lifted up to the surface when I wiped on the Danish oil.

[ugly woofer]

That walnut is beautiful. Well done!

[JavadS]

Beautiful Bill, really cool visuals with this design, I can't wait to hear and see them.