Dayton CX150-8 Coaxial Project

[Zayne]

Thanks for all the good name suggestions. Food for thought. I'm trying to come up with something that includes coaxial, curves, charge coupled, and maybe walnut in one word. The walnut baffles really started to pop with the finish applied. Will post a few pics shortly.

Axe curves Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

[JavadS]

"The Right Places"

[4thtry]

Thanks for all the excellent feedback. How about "Curvy-Coax" Or maybe "Gumbyella" after the 1950's "stick of gum" cartoon character. I also like the "Coarx" suggestion. "Itty Bitty in the Middy" would be fun, but I'm not sure if this would fit in the space required.

[4thtry]

As a final step before mounting the walnut baffles, I decided to scallop the internal particle board cutouts to allow greater airflow and minimize early reflections. After reading about Keith's experience, I double-checked my baskets to make sure I had the correct location and number of scallops. The CX150 gets four and the RS270P gets six.

Also, I intend to line the edge of all scallops with a thin layer of self-stick felt, trimmed from 9x12 sheets into several long 12 x 3/4" strips.

Note: The walnut baffles will NOT be glued to the inner particle board baffle. They will be allowed to "float" somewhat on the mounting screws. The mounting holes going through the walnut are oversized and allow for expansion/contraction. The mounting screws will only bite into the inner particle board baffle material. A mortite gasket will seal the driver holes where the inner and outer baffles are joined.

[4thtry]

CoWax
Quax
Kowaxial

Decided to go with one of dst's recommendations. The nameplates will be laser engraved at a local awards shop. I just signed off on the proofs so I should get them in about 1 week. They will be flush mounted in the center of a 5.25x3x3/4" wooden nameplate board that goes between the upper and lower baffle boards. Should look really cool when I get done.

[KEtheredge87]

After reading about Keith's experience, I double-checked my baskets to make sure I had the correct location and number of scallops. The CX150 gets four and the RS270P gets six.

Glad to be of service

[4thtry]

Glad to be of service

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[Kevin K.]

Wow Bill, you've outdone yourself! These are fantastic looking and I'm bettin they'll sound the same. What are you gonna do with all the extra time you've got left before MWAF?

[4thtry]

Wow Bill, you've outdone yourself! These are fantastic looking and I'm bettin they'll sound the same. What are you gonna do with all the extra time you've got left before MWAF?

Thanks, Kevin. So far I have only listened to one speaker, so when I get them set up as a stereo pair in a week or so, I plan to use the next month or two for xover tweaking. I'll probably double or triple guess my xover decisions several times before Indy. And then again before MWAF. I have found that the final tweaking process is one of the most time consuming parts of speaker building. So I am actually behind schedule and will probably just get them done in time for MWAF

[4thtry]

A little progress:

I ran up a set of 9 nameplate prototyping boards to experiment with. My template turned out to be just a tad too big (+1/32"), so I used Javad's masking tape tip to make the template just a little bit smaller. I ran two layers of masking tape on the template's top & bottom inside edges and one layer on the inside side edges. Came out perfect, with just the right amount of tolerance for a comfortable fit.

[4thtry]

Nameplate prototyping:

Pic 1: Walnut with high contrast vertical grain, Danish oil and several coats of clear. This pair was hand selected from a group of 5 prototype boards for best grain pattern & color match to the upper and lower baffle boards.

Pic 2: Walnut with high contrast horizontal grain, Danish oil and several coats of clear. The horizontal grain does not seem to blend well with the upper and lower baffle boards.

Pic 3: MDF with three coats of white primer. These boards were top coated later, but I snapped a pic just for comparison purposes. Interesting look, but not quite what I want.

Pic 4: MDF with 3 coats primer and 2 coats brilliant metallic gold.

Pic 5: MDF with 3 coats of white primer and 2 coats semi-gloss black enamel. Seems to blend well with the black driver cones and "Kowaxial" letters. Good contrast to Euro-gold nameplate.

I set the various prototypes in position without glue to see how they looked, then snapped the above photos. My plan is to glue the best looking pair in place with a couple small dabs of silicone. Comments and suggestions are welcome.

[scottvalentin]

White is the only one that doesn't work really really well (IMHO). That walnut is beautiful!

[jhollander]

Pic #1 imo, black might be cool but hard to tell without seeing whole speaker.

[4thtry]

White is the only one that doesn't work really really well (IMHO). That walnut is beautiful!

Thanks, Scott. The vendor sent me some super high contrast stuff that really pops in certain sections. I'm very happy with how it turned out.

[4thtry]

Pic #1 imo, black might be cool but hard to tell without seeing whole speaker.

I agree. I am leaning toward pic 1 also. I will shoot & post a full length pic comparing #1 and #5.