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Nano Microfarads Version 2 build thread W5-2053 and PS95-8

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  • Nano Microfarads Version 2 build thread W5-2053 and PS95-8

    Hey everyone, since InDIYana 2017 I've wanted to build a slightly bigger version of my Microfarads entry, the original thread is at http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...95-and-w5-2053

    The main difference is more room to work with, internal volume is up to about 9 liters with available airspace to the W5 RBM sub at about 7liters.

    I'll also be using a neat TangBand Passive Radiator bcodemz turned me on to that has a lot of excursion capability and should address another limitation I had with the Peerless 5" PRs I used on V1.

    This is still a very small speaker with the bass capabilities of one 10" subwoofer easily (for the pair), and I really enjoy listening to the PS95-8, where it lacks in smooth treble too end it makes up for in coherence and integration.

    First I started with the template to flush mount the PR's.



    I built a simple frame around the PR, this will create the initial template which I'll use to make the final template. I measured the rounded corners of the frame and happily they were exactly 1/2", same as my spiral cut flush trim bit.





    Quick test fit and it's perfect



    Now to pattern onto a fresh piece with center markings



    Finished





    Next to do something with this gorgeous Mahogany...



    Thanks!
    Javad
    --
    Javad Shadzi
    Bay Area, CA

    2-Channel Stereo system in the works with Adcom components and 4-way towers

  • #2
    On to building the enclosure, I started by cutting all the mahogany pieces to size for the sides



    Quick glue up



    While those dried, I started on the midrange chamber, it's made from a 4 inch cardboard tube and a solid wood end cap that's rabbited to fit tightly in the tube.

    One advantage of having more room is a bigger mid chamber, which I believe will allow me to dampen the rear wave more effectively than I was able to in Version 1 which used a very small fiberglass cup on the back. It will be interesting to compare, however I believe I had some responses issues on V1 due to this:





    The tube is then scalloped to allow it to fit within the tight constraints of the enclosure



    Test fit, all is well



    Next I added a flange for the removable back



    This notch allows the W5 to be slid into the enclosure



    Removable back cut and fit



    Pilot holes for threaded inserts and hardware



    5 mm threaded inserts



    Stainless steel button head cap screws



    Gluing in the middle chamber using Loctite construction adhesive (great stuff BTW)









    I added this little brace which will also serve as another screw attachment point for the rear panel



    Thanks!
    Javad
    --
    Javad Shadzi
    Bay Area, CA

    2-Channel Stereo system in the works with Adcom components and 4-way towers

    Comment


    • #3
      Looks good so far... actually you're pretty much there, nice work!

      Are those TB PR's still not available just by themselves? If so, I wonder why they won't sell them separately?

      Love the Mahogany, those are going to be nice looking. Makes my MDF cabinets look almost like cardboard! Hey wait, it pretty much is cardboard... Doh!

      TomZ
      Zarbo Audio Projects Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEZ...aFQSTl6NdOwgxQ * 320-641 Amp Review Youtube: https://youtu.be/ugjfcI5p6m0 *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
      *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF

      Comment


      • #4
        I like your setup for the removeable rear panel. I just tried my first removable front baffle, and not totally happy with how it works.

        Comment


        • #5
          Those E-Z Loc threaded inserts on Mahogany will be rock solid. I always apply a little wood glue on them before they go in. You can usually pick up qty 100 on the Zon for less than $8.
          "A dirty shop is an unsafe shop, if you injure yourself in a clean shop you are just stupid" - Coach Kupchinsky

          The Madeleine
          The Roxster
          Swopes 5.0
          Acoustic Panels
          Living Room Make Over

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by tomzarbo View Post
            Looks good so far... actually you're pretty much there, nice work!

            Are those TB PR's still not available just by themselves? If so, I wonder why they won't sell them separately?

            Love the Mahogany, those are going to be nice looking. Makes my MDF cabinets look almost like cardboard! Hey wait, it pretty much is cardboard... Doh!

            TomZ
            Thanks Tom! Yes TB won't sell them separate, we even hounded the owner of TB at CES last year, they wouldn't budge! I did find a place willing to split them up so used them for the time being.

            Yes this wood is so nice to work with, cuts like aluminum and holds a razor sharp edge, plus the pics don't do it justice.
            --
            Javad Shadzi
            Bay Area, CA

            2-Channel Stereo system in the works with Adcom components and 4-way towers

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Gordy View Post
              Those E-Z Loc threaded inserts on Mahogany will be rock solid. I always apply a little wood glue on them before they go in. You can usually pick up qty 100 on the Zon for less than $8.
              Yup, where I get them, they don't need anything in this hardwood, they lock in and torque down hard in this wood, in MDF I'd epoxy them in. Also they install so easy with the big allen in the top.
              --
              Javad Shadzi
              Bay Area, CA

              2-Channel Stereo system in the works with Adcom components and 4-way towers

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by scottvalentin View Post
                I like your setup for the removeable rear panel. I just tried my first removable front baffle, and not totally happy with how it works.
                Glad you like Scott, with a strip of foam sealant this is a solid way to seal
                --
                Javad Shadzi
                Bay Area, CA

                2-Channel Stereo system in the works with Adcom components and 4-way towers

                Comment


                • #9
                  I always install inserts from the other direction from that of the inserted screw.
                  This prevents pull out due to the inserts' tapered shape.

                  Later,
                  Wolf
                  "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                  "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                  "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                  "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                  *InDIYana event website*

                  Photobucket pages:
                  https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker

                  My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
                  http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Javad is installing the inserts correctly. You want the screw to tighten on the insert as the screw is tightened. If you install the insert from the rear, the insert can be unscrewed as the screw is tightened, leaving you with a loose screw that is real hard to get out. I've yet to have one tear out from the front.
                    I'm not deaf, I'm just not listening!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I see that logic, but it's never happened to me.
                      Wolf
                      "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                      "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                      "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                      "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                      *InDIYana event website*

                      Photobucket pages:
                      https://app.photobucket.com/u/wolf_teeth_speaker

                      My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
                      http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Wolf View Post
                        I see that logic, but it's never happened to me.
                        Wolf
                        It happened to me, and it was the worst. Once I started installing the inserts from the front, I never looked back. It's much easier to do from the front too, in a finished cabinet.
                        I'm not deaf, I'm just not listening!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Wolf View Post
                          I see that logic, but it's never happened to me.
                          Wolf
                          Ben, what you describe is definitely the right way to install a T-nut, a threaded insert like this, when installed correctly, has tremendous strength, far more than the fastener that threads into it or a normal screw, I don't know how much force it would take to pull one of these EZ inserts out of this wood but it would be substantial and much more than the insert would ever see. Installed this way they can also be serviced or replaced if ever need be, from the back they'd be mostly inaccessible. Also as dcibel mentions, tightening the fastener only tightens these more which is a good thing. Most manufacturer recommended install instructions show it being done this way as well that I've seen.

                          Thanks!
                          Javad
                          --
                          Javad Shadzi
                          Bay Area, CA

                          2-Channel Stereo system in the works with Adcom components and 4-way towers

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Yummy mahogany...wrt inserts some of the threaded in inserts don't work well on MDF. I those cases I over size the hole, add glue, and pull the insert into place with a screw. I've done it from both directions.
                            John H

                            Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by jhollander View Post
                              Yummy mahogany...wrt inserts some of the threaded in inserts don't work well on MDF. I those cases I over size the hole, add glue, and pull the insert into place with a screw. I've done it from both directions.
                              I've used these on MDF, I use a tight pilot hole and a dab of wood glue and they lock in very securely, you can strip them out of you're belligerent with them, but normal use very strong.
                              --
                              Javad Shadzi
                              Bay Area, CA

                              2-Channel Stereo system in the works with Adcom components and 4-way towers

                              Comment

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