Hi Guys,
This build is my first original speaker design, and is intended for me to really learn and apply some crossover knowledge. I've got a head start since the boxes were pre-assembled door prizes with blank baffles from InDIYana 2017. I decided to use the HiVi L6-4R woofer and Dayton ND25FW-4 waveguide soft dome tweeter after doing some crossover simulations in PCD and seeing that I could achieve what I think will be good results from relatively modest XO parts in 2nd order LR filters. This project has also been a convenient way to start learning Autodesk Fusion 360 CAD software, which I'm finding is more full featured than google's sketchup.
I've been working on these here and there, and wasn't totally sure when to start this thread, so I figured now is as good a time as any. I'll try to post meaningful pictures over the next few entries to catch everyone up. At a high level, here's where we're at:
1) Naming them the Super Bees after the Dodge muscle car of the 70's. I like the name, and the super bee logo... and these are garage speakers, so naming them after cars only made sense!
1a) This leaves me open to re-use an Ultimax-15 driver for a garage sub, name it the Rumble Bee, and then have the whole project called the Scat Pack!
2) Bassbox predicts Fb=51.9 Hz / F3 = 56.5 Hz with a 4.75" long x 1.728" ID round port with internal and external flares.
3) DATS measurement shows Fb is actually 45 Hz, so I'm clearly off in BassBox somewhere.
4) Woofer LP target is 2nd order LR @ 2200 Hz, Tweeter HP target is 2nd order LR @ 2500 Hz
My next steps are to take frequency response measurements of the woofer and tweeter in the cabinet with my Omnimic and follow Jeff Bagby's approach to combining nearfield and farfield responses to get quasi-anechoic frequency responses for crossover design. I currently have a 10 conductor - 18AWG wire divided up between the woofer and tweeter (3 wires + and - for woofer, 2 wires + and - for tweeter) so I can hook up only the drivers I want at any given moment.
OK, enough of my jabbering for a while. Here's some pictures of where we are, and a rendering of what I hope it looks like when I'm done!
This build is my first original speaker design, and is intended for me to really learn and apply some crossover knowledge. I've got a head start since the boxes were pre-assembled door prizes with blank baffles from InDIYana 2017. I decided to use the HiVi L6-4R woofer and Dayton ND25FW-4 waveguide soft dome tweeter after doing some crossover simulations in PCD and seeing that I could achieve what I think will be good results from relatively modest XO parts in 2nd order LR filters. This project has also been a convenient way to start learning Autodesk Fusion 360 CAD software, which I'm finding is more full featured than google's sketchup.
I've been working on these here and there, and wasn't totally sure when to start this thread, so I figured now is as good a time as any. I'll try to post meaningful pictures over the next few entries to catch everyone up. At a high level, here's where we're at:
1) Naming them the Super Bees after the Dodge muscle car of the 70's. I like the name, and the super bee logo... and these are garage speakers, so naming them after cars only made sense!
1a) This leaves me open to re-use an Ultimax-15 driver for a garage sub, name it the Rumble Bee, and then have the whole project called the Scat Pack!
2) Bassbox predicts Fb=51.9 Hz / F3 = 56.5 Hz with a 4.75" long x 1.728" ID round port with internal and external flares.
3) DATS measurement shows Fb is actually 45 Hz, so I'm clearly off in BassBox somewhere.
4) Woofer LP target is 2nd order LR @ 2200 Hz, Tweeter HP target is 2nd order LR @ 2500 Hz
My next steps are to take frequency response measurements of the woofer and tweeter in the cabinet with my Omnimic and follow Jeff Bagby's approach to combining nearfield and farfield responses to get quasi-anechoic frequency responses for crossover design. I currently have a 10 conductor - 18AWG wire divided up between the woofer and tweeter (3 wires + and - for woofer, 2 wires + and - for tweeter) so I can hook up only the drivers I want at any given moment.
OK, enough of my jabbering for a while. Here's some pictures of where we are, and a rendering of what I hope it looks like when I'm done!
Comment