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Crossover mounting hardware advice

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  • Crossover mounting hardware advice

    I've got a couple small crossovers I need to mount. I have brass bolts and washers, but the hardware store didn't have brass lock nuts. I found some online if I need them. So, should I go ahead and use the steel ones or get the brass nuts? I've heard that steel next to the ferrite inductor could be bad.

  • #2

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    • #3
      Stainless steel is also non-magnetic.

      Good luck, Mark

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      • #4
        I kind of don't think that the steel nuts will make much of a difference.

        Do you have a DATS? You could measure to see if it really changed things a lot. Having steel near an inductor is not actually bad as in "not good"... it's just that the extra steel nearby may cause a slight shift in the value of that component slightly higher in value. I doubt it would be much, though if any being a solid core inductor. I'd think you would be fine with what you've got.

        TomZ
        Zarbo Audio Projects Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEZ...aFQSTl6NdOwgxQ * 320-641 Amp Review Youtube: https://youtu.be/ugjfcI5p6m0 *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
        *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF

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        • #5
          Provided you don't pass through the inductor core, go ahead and use steel.

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          • #6
            I use a wood screw or two through the board.....case closed.
            Don't over think it.
            Kenny

            http://www.diy-ny.com/
            DIY NY/NJ 2014 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FGwA...ature=youtu.be
            Man does not live by measurements alone, a little music helps.

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            • #7
              Thanks guys!
              Originally posted by kenny_k View Post
              I use a wood screw or two through the board.....case closed.
              Don't over think it.
              Yeah, that's what I usually do too. I like to use the PE black wood screws. I can't get a screwdriver in the tiny cabinet for these so bolts it is.

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              • #8
                An actual experiment with an inductor and a couple of screws. Without anything near the coil opening, the inductor measured 4.17mH.

                With a brass screw, no change. Click image for larger version

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                With a steel screw, the inductance was increased to 4.22 mH



                Keep the inductor and screw some distance apart, and you'll be OK. A steel screw down the center of an air core inductor is the worst case.
                Bill Schneider
                -+-+-+-+-
                www.afterness.com/audio

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                • #9
                  These worked out pretty good, terminal cups (PE part # 260-278) had card slots built in, I used 1/8" MDF for the boards. On larger builds, I typically try to leave room at the corners of the boards. I just use the black oxide driver mounting screws, and some small wood blocks for stand offs.
                  My modest builds:
                  Armadillo TM, A.K.A. Lil' Dillo
                  Tarkus/Armadillo build #2
                  Armadillo Center Channel
                  Au-Rock-O Sub
                  Tarkus
                  Staining MDF tutorial

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                  • #10
                    Wow, that's a clever way to do the crossover. I'm using terminal cups too but more like the PE 260-294 ones. I finished gluing up the cabinet along with cutting some roundovers today. It'll be a tight fit in the crossover boards, but they'll work. I thought about just gluing everything in, but I wanted the option of removing/replacing components in the future.

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