I've got a couple small crossovers I need to mount. I have brass bolts and washers, but the hardware store didn't have brass lock nuts. I found some online if I need them. So, should I go ahead and use the steel ones or get the brass nuts? I've heard that steel next to the ferrite inductor could be bad.
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Crossover mounting hardware advice
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I kind of don't think that the steel nuts will make much of a difference.
Do you have a DATS? You could measure to see if it really changed things a lot. Having steel near an inductor is not actually bad as in "not good"... it's just that the extra steel nearby may cause a slight shift in the value of that component slightly higher in value. I doubt it would be much, though if any being a solid core inductor. I'd think you would be fine with what you've got.
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I use a wood screw or two through the board.....case closed.
Don't over think it.Kenny
http://www.diy-ny.com/
DIY NY/NJ 2014 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FGwA...ature=youtu.be
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An actual experiment with an inductor and a couple of screws. Without anything near the coil opening, the inductor measured 4.17mH.
With a brass screw, no change.
With a steel screw, the inductance was increased to 4.22 mH
Keep the inductor and screw some distance apart, and you'll be OK. A steel screw down the center of an air core inductor is the worst case.
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These worked out pretty good, terminal cups (PE part # 260-278) had card slots built in, I used 1/8" MDF for the boards. On larger builds, I typically try to leave room at the corners of the boards. I just use the black oxide driver mounting screws, and some small wood blocks for stand offs.1 Photo
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Wow, that's a clever way to do the crossover. I'm using terminal cups too but more like the PE 260-294 ones. I finished gluing up the cabinet along with cutting some roundovers today. It'll be a tight fit in the crossover boards, but they'll work. I thought about just gluing everything in, but I wanted the option of removing/replacing components in the future.1 Photo
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