Building Crossovers

[jhollander]

OK here are some more that are not yours. I do enjoy soldering up a x-o.

[bolland83]

Nothing I said makes anything you were going to say less relevant. It does happen to be the most effort I've put into a xover network, but both your and my experiences are still valid. I really liked the 'cup o' xover' you did.

Feel free!
Wolf

Wolf,
Thanks! I should clarify, I simply meant I got sidetracked staring at those beasts. I enjoy the puzzle aspect of getting all the pieces to fit together, those would have been a challenge for sure. The "cup" design was just me doing what I had seen on commercial designs, though the parts I used were a bit beefier than most cheap commercial stuff I've dissected. The cups were conveniently setup to hold a pcb, so it just made sense to give it a try. For a small cab with limited access through the driver cutouts it's pretty ideal assuming you don't have a ton of parts going into it.

Here's a few of my other ones. I seem to prefer using 1/8" MDF, aside from that each one I do is a little different.

[Psycoacoustics]

I’m flattered that Wolf included a pic of my Prazise crossover. However, it don’t hold a candle to what Bolland83 does with his shi$! Sorry Wolf! LOL!

Have Fun! Mark

[Gordy]

Here are some I did for my Swopes. I like to mount the components on the board and do the connections underneath. No one will see them but me.



Here are 4 I did today. For smaller speakers the PCB boards work pretty well. The downside is the holes are very small and will only accommodate up to a 20GA wire hence the use of 20GA coils. Being able to solder the leads of each component helps to secure them to the board. I do go in after all parts are mounted and drop some black hot glue on them to ensure they don't vibrate. The boards do accommodate JST-XH plugs which is a plus. Like the above. All wiring is done underneath. The 4 holes on each corner work well with 2.5mm brass standoffs.

[Mike Burke]

Thanks to all again. Good information. A couple of you have been inspirational.
Here is my Nano Neo XO I'm working on.
Constructive criticism ??
I'm wondering if there will be to much resistance using the long center ground strip ?
I have tested both and they work and sound good.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ts5YPLSHEVO81e0p1

[Psycoacoustics]

Ya did GOOD! Install em and enjoy!

Have Fun! Mark

[djg]

Nice. The center ground is like a busbar, ie big large gauge very low resistance.

[bolland83]

Thanks to all again. Good information. A couple of you have been inspirational.
Here is my Nano Neo XO I'm working on.
Constructive criticism ??
I'm wondering if there will be to much resistance using the long center ground strip ?
I have tested both and they work and sound good.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ts5YPLSHEVO81e0p1

Looks good, you nailed the neat and tidy part of it for sure. The wire you used for the ground should be fine, it's larger than the leads coming off the components, looks like 14 gauge maybe? Should be good to go. As for constructive criticism, it could be made a lot more compact. That said, if it all works, and it fits inside the cabinet, that's all that really matters.

[4thtry]

I followed Wolf's post 3 and Pete's post 9 tips for my coaxial project. The smaller tweeter board is finished & soldered up. The larger mid/woofer board will be soldered up as soon as I tie up all the wiring nodes. The layout on both boards avoids jumper wires completely!!

I broke the tweeter parts out onto a separate board so that I could mount it up high in the midrange cabinet. This will keep the tweeter's inductor roughly 3 feet away from the other, much larger inductors. As recommended, I used 6-32 brass screws & nuts to mount the heavier inductors.